Shock Absorber Fluid
 

This is the first time I have checked shock absorber fluid levels on my car, and I am confused with conflicting guidance. I have a 1931 Victoria with what appears to be original design shocks. When I remove the filler plug and stick a toothpick down the hole, I have some fluid, but it does not rise to the bottom of the filler hole.

Attachment 431780

Attachment 431781

Les Andrews, Volume 1, page 1-260 says, "Remove the filler plug and fill with shock fluid to the bottom of the filler hole. Replace the filler plug."

However, the bottle of shock fluid I recently purchased from Bratton's has a white piece of paper inside the plastic bag-sealed bottle that says, "SHOCK FLUID DO NOT fill the upper reservoir with oil. These shocks have been internally sealed to trap necessary oil in the working chambers of the shock. This was necessary to correct an original engineering flaw that enabled most shocks to leak oil around the outer cap. Your shocks have been oiled and tested for normal road and load use and should function perfectly on your car."

Attachment 431779

So.... Do I add shock oil, or not?

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Yess.add.

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Only reproduction shocks should not be oiled.

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Call them. I think what you're reading is meant for the reproduction shocks [ non-Stipe] they sell.
Stipe and originals should be full or close to it.

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

What is the writing on the shock cover

That could determine which shocks you have on there

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

“HYDRAULIC SUSPENSION PAT 1087017” 1426115-1499660


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Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

I just learned that at least two of the filler plugs have stripped threads. Is that common? What are my options?


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Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Also, can anyone tell me the fluid capacity of the shocks? The first one took 1.5 ounces to reach the bottom of the filler hole. The second one looks to be about the same.


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Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

You could try to retap the threads or just put a drop of Locktite on the threads so the plug stays put, and then don't worry too much.

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

It turns out all four filler plugs have stripped threads, and all four shocks were at least 1 ounce low on fluid. I suspect they were almost dry, but I don’t know their fluid capacity.

I only added one ounce to the second, third, and fourth shocks, in case they leak profusely. I’ve had the car 9 months, and they haven’t leaked in the past. But, this is the first time I’ve checked them, and if they were dry they wouldn’t leak anyway.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom?

For the moment, I’m putting everything back together, and I’ll keep an eye out for leaks.


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Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Will Locktite work on an oily surface?


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Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

I think I would wrap the plug threads with teflon tape and screw them in snug, not real tight.

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

When I first got my car I checked the shocks and found them low. Filled them up. Next morning I had four oil puddles.

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Yeah, I wouldn’t be surprised if I end up with four puddles too.


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Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Yes somewhat, but you can clean the plug in solvent as well as the threads in the body. For that, use solvent on a bit of twisted rag or Q-tip.
The shocks, if bad, may be rebuildable.

Shock Absorber Fluid
 

It looks like Snyder’s and Bratton’s carry the filler plugs.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/P...earchByKeyword

I made a note to add replacements to my next order. I’m hoping just the plugs are stripped.


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Shock Absorber Fluid
 

Thanks for the tip. I see this rebuild kit from Bratton's.

https://www.brattons.com/square-sytl...-pro-pack.html

I've never rebuilt a shock, and this part number comes with an instructional DVD. Realistically, how difficult is it to rebuild shocks? Is this task one of the Model A "art forms," or is it more of a science that would be reasonably difficult to mess up? Do you need special equipment (like a press or something else that shade tree mechanic would be unlikely to have on hand)?

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

As for stripped plugs, should the housing be stripped, dip the plugs in wax, and re-install them in a slightly cleaned housing with an epoxy akin to 'jb weld'.

Refill shocks as necessary.

I have never re-built one, so cannot offer much advice on that task.

Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

That’s a thought. Thanks.


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Re: Shock Absorber Fluid
 

It is common for the shocks to leak. I am still trying to get a handle on the seals as there are at least 2 types when I was looking a while ago. Even more if they were rebuilt a while ago.

Here is my thoughts.

First figure out if they are real originals or a reproduction. We would need better pictures. It is odd that all the fills are stripped. Not sure what is going on there. They are pipe tapped.

You need to take all the shocks off the car.
Put them in a vice and see if they work. You may need to add some oil. They should be really hard to move in one direction and less in the other. If you turn the valve all the way down they should be really really hard to move.

Any play in the shaft and the shock is bad, go no further.

If not then you have a problem. Too many shocks are more decorative then functional.

To get the seal replaced you will need to take apart the cover. This can be a chore and you my need some special tools depending. Once you have the cover off you can try to take the cover off with some big tools. But just take the seal off and see if you have some play on the shaft. Play=no good or maybe work sort of if you put in thicker oil.

The internals of the shock need to be to .001" tolerance or better, I have never seen prints. I know have have some very slightly worn shocks and they do not dampen even close to factory specs.

If the internals seem good you need to clean the cover threads well and see how tight the cover fits screw it on some and see how much play you have. If it rattles around on the threads then use a torch and do some heat shrinks around the cover until it fits more snug. This reduces the oil getting out of the threads. The O rings I have seen are too stiff and do not press into the threads and properly seal. When taking off the covers I do light hammer taps which expand the cover diameter. So I shrink back to a tight fit.

Someone else is going to have to chime in about which shaft and cover seal work.

Just in case, you need to pull the covers to tap the threads so you do not be metal shavings in the oil.

The above is based on my preliminary work on a pile if decent shock I own. I stopped when I found I needed to get a heavier oil and I wanted to make a more accurate KRW copy of the shock testing tool. The tool is basically like a 6 lb weight like 18" or so from the shaft. Be a while so do not take my numbers seriously. My good shocks would take like 5 seconds to drop lock to lock. Specs in the service bulletins say it should take like 15 seconds.