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jrvariel48 01-11-2020 05:05 PM

Rebuilt motor start up
 

I had my 8BA rebuilt and I'd like to test run it before it gets put in the car.
I would like to know EXACTLY what to do.

Here's some of the questions I have.

Do I need to install a radiator and coolant or can I run without it?
(I only plan on running it to check for oil pressure and leaks and whatever else I should be looking for)

I've read about priming the motor with oil, so I don't think that'll be a problem for me to handle.

Should I run an oil filter? I think it should, but want to input. It was plumbed for 95% oil filtering.

Should the clutch and pressure plate be installed?

Will it run it with a gravity feed fuel bottle or do I need a fuel pump? (Single two barrel carb)

Please let me know if I'm missing anything.

Thank you, Joe

FortyNiner 01-11-2020 06:41 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Perhaps I'm too simple minded - certainly possible - but by the time you mess around with all the bracing, plumbing, and electrical work to get an engine ready to test it could be in the car. That was my approach. Obviously, you get to decide. Hope the startup meets your expectations.

Brian 01-11-2020 07:28 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Should I run an oil filter? I think it should, but want to input. It was plumbed for 95% oil filtering.


If you run sans the filter, ensure the blocking grubscrew is removed from the oilway....

Hal Beatty 01-11-2020 07:39 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

New cam and lifters? If so, you'll need to run it at 2,000-2,500 rpm for 20 minutes to break them in... even though flatheads don't run the valve spring pressures that overheads do I'd want to do a good break-in on these parts.

Jim in Wisconsin 01-11-2020 07:49 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

It'll run on gravity feed. You'll need a radiator for sure. I've run motors on stands - they get hot in just a few minutes.
It doesn't matter if the clutch is on it or not, as long as the flywheel in on. Make sure the flywheel bolts are tight!

jrvariel48 01-11-2020 10:53 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by FortyNiner (Post 1840338)
Perhaps I'm too simple minded - certainly possible - but by the time you mess around with all the bracing, plumbing, and electrical work to get an engine ready to test it could be in the car. That was my approach. Obviously, you get to decide. Hope the startup meets your expectations.

It's really not too bad. I've dove a lot of motors this way, just not a fresh rebuild.
I also have to index the bellhousing for the T5 trans and I won't be able to do that in the car.
Thanks

jrvariel48 01-11-2020 10:54 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian (Post 1840363)
Should I run an oil filter? I think it should, but want to input. It was plumbed for 95% oil filtering.


If you run sans the filter, ensure the blocking grubscrew is removed from the oilway....

Thank you Brian. I've read about some disasters here on the barn about that grub screw!

jrvariel48 01-11-2020 10:55 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hal Beatty (Post 1840364)
New cam and lifters? If so, you'll need to run it at 2,000-2,500 rpm for 20 minutes to break them in... even though flatheads don't run the valve spring pressures that overheads do I'd want to do a good break-in on these parts.

Yessir, new cam and lifters. New everything!
Can this break in be done after the motor is pre-tested and back in the car?
Thanks

jrvariel48 01-11-2020 10:56 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim in Wisconsin (Post 1840367)
It'll run on gravity feed. You'll need a radiator for sure. I've run motors on stands - they get hot in just a few minutes.
It doesn't matter if the clutch is on it or not, as long as the flywheel in on. Make sure the flywheel bolts are tight!

Thanks Jim, I can get that set-up in a jiffy!
Thank you

Hal Beatty 01-12-2020 02:20 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrvariel48 (Post 1840417)
Yessir, new cam and lifters. New everything!
Can this break in be done after the motor is pre-tested and back in the car?
Thanks

Yeah... if you want to put the cam and lifters at risk.

Personally I wouldn't attempt to start that engine until you are ready to run it at high rpm for 20 min's or so as you are depending upon the oil thrown off of the crank and rods to adequately lubricate the cam lobes and lifters until they break in.

tubman 01-12-2020 03:25 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

I built an engine test stand about 10 years ago and have used it a bunch. I have had two flatheads, an early hemi, and an Olds Rocket on it so far, with at least one more to come. Probably not worth it though if you are only doing one engine. They're great for the 20 minute cam break-in on a new engine (easier to control), but don't over-do it. I particularly like them for checking out used engines to see what you really have. The hemi and a Mercury I checked were both unknown used engines and both turned out to be in excellent shape.

Karl Wolf 01-12-2020 04:30 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

I bench ran a used 59AB,
wood blocks to hold the engine in place
used a radiator held in place by the hoses.
fed the ford fuel pump from a can.
original cast iron exhaust manifolds. No muffler... LOUD.
Oil pressure gauge.

Could have run it as long as I wanted...

Karl

cas3 01-12-2020 04:41 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

the junk yards used to run em laying in an old tire, no radiator, rev the hell out of it to show us kids how good it was. used a spray bottle for fuel. run it until your finger is tired of pumping the bottle

Brian 01-12-2020 07:56 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

My opinion....people say that with new cam and lifters, the motor needs to be run at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes in order to run those components in.

New rings need to be run under load to get them bedded in correctly.
Therefore, achieve both jobs at once; get vehicle running, then DRIVE it.

Talkwrench 01-12-2020 08:03 PM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian (Post 1840717)
My opinion....people say that with new cam and lifters, the motor needs to be run at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes in order to run those components in.

New rings need to be run under load to get them bedded in correctly.
Therefore, achieve both jobs at once; get vehicle running, then DRIVE it.

Thats what I did.. load it up and run it reasonably hard. Back yourself if you have done the work ! :D

jrvariel48 01-13-2020 05:00 AM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

OK, putting the motor in the car to run it is not a problem.
One thing I must check before I do that is the bellhouse indexing.
To do that, I have to hand turn the motor.
I'm being told not to do that because it'll wipe the lube off the cam lobes.
The motor would have to be spun a minimum of two times, one to get the numbers and one to check after adjusting.
If I install the motor in the car and drive it, I run the risk of destroying the input shaft bearing...again. I don't want to do that.
I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks everyone.

GOSFAST 01-13-2020 08:37 AM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by jrvariel48 (Post 1840791)
OK, putting the motor in the car to run it is not a problem.
One thing I must check before I do that is the bellhouse indexing.
To do that, I have to hand turn the motor.
I'm being told not to do that because it'll wipe the lube off the cam lobes.
The motor would have to be spun a minimum of two times, one to get the numbers and one to check after adjusting.
If I install the motor in the car and drive it, I run the risk of destroying the input shaft bearing...again. I don't want to do that.
I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks everyone.

Hi Joe, I'm telling you, it would work fine indicating that hsg on ANY other 8BA block, it will work.

Done this hundreds of times on the "stick" Chevy's we've done. If you indicate a scattershield on any "stock" Chevy block, NOT an aftermarket one (SB's and BB's are the same), and then use it on still another block later on, you'll be safe, believe me!

But here's the "catch", we've never used any offset dowel pins or stepped ones to locate the new shield on any builds, nor have we "redrilled" new holes for any larger pins, we simply used the Lakewood "welded-washer" setup on each housing. You would indicate the hsg to the designated block using the indicator and the bolts to "center" it then weld the washers to the hsg while in position on the block. There was clearance, usually about .010"/.015" between the hsg pin holes and the existing dowels. This method allowed that same hsg to fit other OEM blocks without having to go all through it again! It works, we've probably done a couple hundred over the years! Lakewood G.M kit photo below only for comparison.

Now, for the initial firing, prime the entire unit, 4 qts of oil, with an external priming tank, leave the "grub" screw OUT (not in, good catch below here guys) this means no filter during the fire-up, and wrap it up. After it's all broken in, INSTALL the "grub" screw and plumb in the filter! Should be fine!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Here's a shot of the Chevy setup I'm speaking about, for the Flathead you'd need to make a couple "weldable" washers. once those washers are tacked/welded to that hsg it will now fit other OEM blocks with no issues, been there, done it! If you happen to need "longer" Flathead pins that's not a real problem either, the pins would be "straight", same diameter as the factory pins to fit the block, no offsets! Indicate the hsg, weld the washers in place, done.

JSeery 01-13-2020 09:15 AM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

"Now, for the initial firing, prime the entire unit, 4 qts of oil, with an external priming tank, leave the "grub" screw in place (this means no filter during the fire-up), and wrap it up. After it's all broken in, remove the "grub" screw and plumb in the filter! Should be fine!"

Not sure I understand this, isn't the "grub" screw blocking the oil passage? I would think you would be stating it the other way around, the "grub" screw has to come out without the filter and back it with the filter. A mistake in this area will be catastrophic!!!

flatjack9 01-13-2020 09:55 AM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

I agree w/JSeery

GOSFAST 01-13-2020 10:29 AM

Re: Rebuilt motor start up
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1840829)
"Now, for the initial firing, prime the entire unit, 4 qts of oil, with an external priming tank, leave the "grub" screw in place (this means no filter during the fire-up), and wrap it up. After it's all broken in, remove the "grub" screw and plumb in the filter! Should be fine!"

Not sure I understand this, isn't the "grub" screw blocking the oil passage? I would think you would be stating it the other way around, the "grub" screw has to come out without the filter and back it with the filter. A mistake in this area will be catastrophic!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by flatjack9 (Post 1840844)
I agree w/JSeery

Good catch, guys!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. "Fixed", I shouldn't post till I'm entirely awake!!


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