Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

Thanks again for all the nice comments on my first drive a while back. I only have two major things left, roof and visor. I have watched all the videos, etc. on installation of both but still have questions. No one shows how to do the rear corners on the ccpu. I assume they have a fold in them. Also a question of whether to use chicken wire or not. On the visor I assume again that the front edge is glued inside to the frame. Is the rear also glued or just folded and held with the mounting screws when installed? I will get the sewing done as recommended.

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

Have you looked at Marco website? He has some nice pictures that show the top installation of a 28 or 29 (same thing). The picture show the steps in installing the top. There is no chicken wire used. I have a 29 CCPU, but I haven't started to restore it yet, but trying to learn as much as I can beforehand. Marco's website is: http://abarnyard.com/temp/82-a/
Rusty

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

Yes the rear corners do have a fold in them. I will take a close up picture of how I did mine for you after work tomorrow if others have not already done so. I think it is correct the way I did it.
Be super sure to have all of your joints, bolt and screw holes filled and sanded super smooth. Round off the sharper points of the wood at the rear cornes just enough to assure that they will not over time cut into the top material. No chicken wire! Just the head liner then the cotton batting and finally the top material. I took the time to feather the cotton batting at all the edges of mine so it would not show through the top material.
Any flaw in the wood joints etc... will show so take your time and do the extra prep work and chances are it will turn out well.
There is a definite pattern/grain to the top material so be sure to get it squared up front to back from the start.
Wait for a good warm sunny day to do your top. Lay out the material in the sun to warm up so it can be stretched and put some duct tape over your knuckles so save your skin when stretching the material. I didn't and wish I had.
The visor material is glued at the front and the rear. Again doing this in the sun is a plus.
All the kits that I have seen have the faux stitching in place already. If you are going to have it stiched as original you would need to get a kit that doesn't have the faux stitching already in place and have the stitching done after the cover is installed. I don't know of anyone offering the visor kits without the stitching. If you do find one I'd like to know. I used one of the kits on mine and it turned out ok. I eventually want to have mine done with real stitching. What botherd me most about the visor kit was the poor quality of the instructions / diagrams that came with the kit. You would think that the folks making the kits would put the extra time and effort into making instructions that were worth a hoot.

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

Can anyone give the dimensions of the stitching that goes in the 3 areas of visor?

I am sewing my own, and would like the stitching even if only for looks in it.

Just length and width of stitch, I presume it will go in the centre open area of each metal rectangle.

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

I just outlined the metal frame on mine.
Here is a factory photo, maybe this will help you.:cool:

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

Thanks for the information. I checked out Marco's. A lot of good pictures!
1Crosscut - I would like a photo of your top showing the folds. My wood joints are all sanded and I will recheck everything. Wrong time of year for that hot sunny day. Maybe a hot garage will do.
What glue is best for the visor? My visor has no stitching and came with no instructions. I bought it from Mikes or Macs about a year ago. It is from Cartouche.

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

This is a great machine for doing the stitching inside the metal pockets.

Wish I could justify buying one just for the one job.

They look like something that was made in a grass hut in 1800, but I have sampled one at a swap meet.

They sew thru anything, and the sewing head simply spins around to any direction and heads off the way you point it.

So you just slot visor under and sew and do 4 90 degree turns without having to turn visor, but as you can work out a visor cannot be sewn in a normal machine because it cannot be turned itself as a whole and fit.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ABLE290-H...item338269bf4c

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

Here are a couple of pictures of the corners. Hope this helps. As far as glue goes I used contact cement. Yes turn the heat waaaay up to help soften the material. Maybe a couple of heat lamps too??? Did you fill the bolt and screw holes too?

Re: Roof and Visor questions 29 CCPU
 

Have to admit that I cheated a bit with my (repro) visor and cover

The cover seemed too big for the frame when I got it, and I really wanted to avoid it flapping or sagging.

I found an abandoned (ahem) realtor's sign made of what looks like corrugated cardboard but is in fact plastic, and light and flexible and strong enough to do the job. Also waterproof, which is handy over here.

I simply trimmed the board to shape with a big pair of scissors, duct taped it to the frame and then used good quality double sided tape on the leading edge and underneath to hold the cover in place. Once I'd got it where i wanted it, opened up the cover again and used spray on contact adhesive out of an aerosol to fix the cover in place, clamped it up to dry and called it good.

Still holding its shape after 9 months of wind and rain. Even tested it on Pendine Sands at 69.87 mph in September and it hung on. If it wasn't so stiff and impermeable I might have broken 70:)