The Ford Barn - Brake rods

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- - Brake rods (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=206031)

Today I done a front axle swap, all went well til I went to reconnect the brakes. Now my brake rods are not long enough. This replacement axle is a total restore. Now I have a 52 inch reach. I backed off the brakes all the way, adjusted out the rods, and cant make a proper working system. Do they make longer rods ? am I missing something ? what is going on here ?:confused::confused:

Are the brake levers 15* forward?

Readjust your brake system. From the Ford service bulletins:

"......pull the brake pedal all the way back until it is against its stop - then adjust the rod until there is about 1/16” clearance between end of rod and rear flange of center cross member (leaving a little clearance between end of rod and cross member prevents any possibility of the end of the rod rubbing against the cross member and causing a squeak).

"After adjusting the brake pedal to cross rod, assemble side pull rods to brake operating and cross shaft end levers. When assembling the side pull rods, pull the brake operating levers on the front axle back and the brake operating levers on the rear axle forward (taking up all idle movement). Then with the levers in this position adjust the side pull rods so they can be assembled to brake operating and cross shaft end levers.

Next adjust brakes by turning up the adjusting wedges as described on page 202 of the January, 1928, Bulletin. After the brake rods have been correctly adjusted car owners should be notified that this adjustment must not be altered. Service brake adjustments must be made only by means of the adjusting wedge at each brake."

From page 202:

"Make all adjustments with brakes cold. Jack up all four wheels. Release hand brake lever. See that wheels revolve freely. Turn the adjusting wedge at each brake (not the pull rod) until the brake drags, then back off the wedge 2 or 3 notches or just enough to allow the wheels to revolve without drag. On new cars brakes will sometimes drag slightly for ¼ or ½ revolution, due to slight high spots. Some judgment must be used in setting such brakes, for if the adjusting wedge is backed off sufficiently to allow the wheel to revolve freely, the brake pedal will go all the way to the floor board when the brakes are hot. A slight drag in one or two spots will do no harm, as the brake will soon free up when the car is driven a short distance and the brake drum slightly expands due to the heat generated. For this reason, brakes should not be adjusted with the drums hot, as when the drum contracts upon cooling it would cause the brakes to drag. To insure correct equalization have one man only check the brake pressure by rotating the wheel. If the above adjustments are correctly made the brakes should operate as follows:

1. Rear brakes should just start to hold when brake pedal is depressed approximately 1 inch.
2. Depressing pedal about 1/2 inch farther should tighten but not lock rear brakes and cause front brakes to just start to hold.
3. Depressing pedal approximately another l/2 inch should lock rear wheels and hold the fronts very tightly. With properly adjusted brakes this should not exceed one-half of the total possible pedal movement.

Ty Ron for that Post

Well, this morning I got back under her working on this issue, seems to be going better. It took some adjusting, pushing and pulling, but I have the rods hooked back up. seems like she rolls ok in the garage. Im guessing my old stuff was just that worn, not use to all new and redone. I did notice one rear break lever with a lot of sloppy play. Now to try an find a way to pull a rear hub next weekend and repair this issue.

Make sure your jacked under the axle and rear assy.. If they are hanging it will throw everything off, incld any adjustments you make

I got the car sitting all four on the floor. Yesterday was trying to hook rods while jacked up. ( Light Bulb ) This may have been the issue. This morning I wiggled up under her searching for answers, with a little pull on break levers, an firm push on the rods, I got the pins to slide back in. I am new to working on A's, so I thought an axle swap should have been a simple task. Looks like it's the little things that will drive one Batty.

I use hair pin clips instead of locking in the cotters while I do my adjustments and road tests. It's easier for me to just pop them out for fine tuning, then when all is good I'll lock them in with the cotters...

I do the same as Mitch. Then when all is adjusted correctly I use a "reusable" cotter pin. I hate using split pins in tight places.
And yes, I know. Not original but no one but me and the guy I run over will ever know. (Well, now all of you do :p)

Make sure the levers on the cross shaft are vertical before you hook up any rods to the axles.Just a little off one way and the levers will be too long,and just a little off the other way and the rods won't reach.