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stude333 05-26-2020 10:43 AM

Drive Shaft Shortening

Does anyone know a shop that will shorten my driveshaft and torque tube? I have Installed a '35 rear axle in my 34 pickup and want to shorten the '35 torque tube and shaft. I dont really have the skills to do this myself. I am looking for someone here in southern California. I am in San Bernardino , and frequent OC and San Gabriel Valley. Even LA would be good. None of the driveshaft shops I called will do this. I think shipping this anywhere would be cost prohibitive. I would appreciate if anyone could pass along a contact number for this service. Frankie

deuce_roadster 05-26-2020 10:57 AM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

Why not use the 34 driveshaft and Or are you not replacing an existing rear end? Check with any of the Old Ford parts suppliers in the area, they would know who can do this for you.

cmbrucew 05-26-2020 11:34 AM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

Driveline specialities in Garden Grove. Google is your friend.


stude333 05-26-2020 12:49 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

I didnt have any 1934 running gear. I started with a cab and frame. and I picked up 1935 running gear for real inexpensive. I have the 21a motor and the 1935 rear mounted and need the tube and shaft cut to fit.

bobH 05-26-2020 12:50 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

To post #2, 34 D/S will not work with 35 rear end.
I have used Driveshaft Specialists in Azusa, 1117 W Fthl Blvd, 626-334-2418. It's been maybe 5 or more years since I worked on my 34, so my info might be obsolete. If this does not lead to results, then I would be asking Bill or Mike McGrath at Early Ford Store, San Dimas, 909-305-1953. Or, Richard or Dennis at EV8G, Covina.
Or, you COULD DIY, if you wanted to research how. But, I would try for D/S Specialists first.
(D/S Specialists is very near Costco in Azusa, if that helps you any. Close to the 210)

stude333 05-26-2020 12:52 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

Driveline Specialist closed. regular big named shops wont touch "torque-tube setups" I called Inland Empire Driveline and General. No Go C&G referred me to Inland. I am getting no where fast.

bobH 05-26-2020 01:02 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

Ok... Doing the D/S should be no big deal for ANY D/S shop. So, have the D/S done professionally. Nothing unusual there. And, at the risk of being 'involved', I'll volunteer to do the TT. (Or, I'll show you how).

V8COOPMAN 05-26-2020 02:18 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

stude333 ...I have a friend in Florida that got lucky and found an OLD drive shaft shop, with an OLD dude in the rear of the shop that had been doing that kind of stuff for eons. This old guy took on the shortening of my bud's '35 drive shaft and torque tube for a modified Chevy T5 transmission upgrade like it was a challenge, did a beautiful job, and the money was ridiculously reasonable. Looking like that ain't gonna happen in your case, here's what I would do. Contact Richard or Dennis Lacy at the "Early V8 Garage" in West Covina. They specialize in converting pre-'39 Fords to hydraulic brakes, among other specialized and unique modifications and upgrades that they have performed over the years. If they can't handle your job, they have enough history with these types of specialty service providers in the So Cal area that they should be able to head you in the right direction. They are:

Richard or Dennis Lacy
Early V8 Garage
1217 N. Azusa Canyon Rd.,
West Covina, Ca. 91790-1004

You know, you have a lot of variables going-on when mixing-up '34 and '35 rear ends, just so that you are aware. PRECISE measurements are critical to assure the rear wheels sit correctly in the rear fender opening. For one thing, the '34 rear spring and crossmember are both curved, with the spring ends arcing forward where they meet the spring shackles. The '35 spring and crossmember are straight. Additionally, the '35 rear axle/banjo housings have several modifications dimensionally and structurally over the '34. The front surface on the banjo housing where the torque tube bolts on is 9/16" farther forward of the axle centerline on the '35-'48 banjo housings. This would effectively require that 9/16" dimension to be figured-into the NEW length. The most important dimension to shoot for (MY opinion) when shortening drive shaft is between centerline of speedo drive gear on front of drive shaft (as the drive shaft and torque tube is snugged-up to the trans in an operational configuration).and the locating-pin HOLE located in the rear end pinion splines. This is your critical drive shaft measurement. With that distance mocked-up, you must then measure the distance between the SECURED torque tube bell at the front....and the torque tube bolt FLANGE surface on the rear end banjo housing. This will give overall t-tube length. Also, while making sure that the speedo gear lines-up in the hole in the torque tube, also make sure that the same hole in t-tube for speedo turtle is clocked appropriately to aim the speedo cable in correct direction. One last precaution....note that there is a small lube oil drain hole near the bottom-most bolt hole in the face of the t-tube bolt surface on front of banjo housing. There is a corresponding drain hole/slot on the t-tube bolt flange. Those two MUST remain aligned. Hope this all helps! DD

stude333 05-31-2020 04:56 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

I ended up giving it to Driveshaft Specialist in Monrovia. we will see how he does. I did assemble evrything and actually measure for the the length. I used a 1940 rear reversed eye main leaf 2-1/4 wide and the rest 1940 front leaves 2" wide. the second leaf is the 1940 front reversed eye main leaf with the eyes mostly cut off I left about 10 degrees of the eye so the end of the leaf wont dig into the leaf below it. and threw out every other 2" leaf except i kept all the real short ones so the pack thickness worked out Ok. the spring I used had to clamps all the way around the circumference of the pack with cross bolts. these are located about and inch outside the main holding U-bolts. The only thing I had to grind was about 1/8" off the middle 12" of the front of the 2-1/4" main leaf. the leaves I used had the 1-1/2" diameter polyurethane slider discs which fit into a pocket in the bottom of each end of all the leafs over about 18" long. I glued those into the pockets wit the Indian gasket stickum. this set up fit into the curved stock '34 spring pocket perfectly. It was too low without the 40 front main leaf added in. also this isnt too stiff like a stock 35 rear spring. I will be running fenderless ) no running boards but with the stock bed with the oak under a steel floor. If i need a little stiffer I could use gas shocks. Thanks for tips and being a great group!!!!

stude333 05-31-2020 05:05 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

driveshaft specialist retains both locations in monrovia and azusa. they took my shaft to azusa as apparently there are different equipment. between the two locations. Oz is the the main man between the shops and the "Torque tube" guy. I did talk to Richard at "Early v8" during this phase in the last couple days; amazing hoe helpful and knowledgable some of these guys are. Another source that came up as a go-to for torque tubes is Cooks Machine Works in Santa Fe Springs. Just throwing that out there in case anyone else reads this string might find this usefu;l

clo 05-31-2020 05:41 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

I will be needing the same thing done. I’m putting in a t-170 trans in my 34 coupe. I’m gonna need to shorten the torque tube about 2”.

Pete 05-31-2020 10:24 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

Check the main leaf that goes up against the cross member for bevel on the edges where it sits in the cross member. Some springs have square edges and that is a recipe for a cracked cross member.

Ol' Ron 06-01-2020 08:22 AM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

It's problems like this that makes me wonder why people don't switch to an open drive modern rear axle??

V8COOPMAN 06-01-2020 11:53 AM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening


Originally Posted by Ol' Ron (Post 1894308)
It's problems like this that makes me wonder why people don't switch to an open drive modern rear axle??

This ain't no big trick for a show dog! Henry really did have the geometry of that rear suspension figured-out pretty well. Hell, you can even replace those pesky keyway axles with good, solid Ford axles to make all but the ring and pinion bulletproof. If'n ya break the ring and pinion in one, ain't holdin' your tongue just right, and you ain't worth a damned at featherin' it off the line! DD

bobH 06-01-2020 02:38 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

Stude.... glad it all worked out. But, I thought you posted that D/S Specialist is/was closed. Anyway, glad they worked for you, and I'm glad they are still available. Some of my 'rod' buddies (& myself) have used them for MANY years. They did the first D/S for me in the 60's. So, I'm curious... did you measure to see if you found a wheelbase difference, due to the straight spring versus the original 34 curved spring? (and just 'shine-on' a small WB change?) I've seen differing posts on this, and per my own measurements, I came up with maybe as much as 7/8 to 1 inch shorter WB with the 35-up rear end, and some guys have posted that they measure close to zero change in wheel base. Anyway, for your pickup, I'm sure it makes NO difference. Congratulations on having it all worked out. You were pretty down on this, back on post #6.

frnkeore 06-01-2020 03:32 PM

Re: Drive Shaft Shortening

What Is the cost range to shorten a torque tube. I have a '40 Zephyr OD unit for sale that would need a tube shorten, to instal it in a V8.

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