Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Thinking about putting in electronic ignition kit in my 30 town sedan. Can someone tell me the pros and cons on doing this? Is it a major job? Do you time it the same way?

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Go to the Pertronics site and read about them. Had one on my 30 Coupe and it worked well. No more Condenser issues..

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Can't think of any pros. Cons- if the electronic ignition fails, you'll be on a flatbed unless you're carrying another whole electronic ignition as a spare and are inclined to swap it out on the side of the road. If the points or condenser go, it's easy and cheap to carry spares and replace them on the road. If you tour with a group, most guys will be willing to help work on the orig points. If they see an electronic system, they'll likely not be willing or able to diagnose a problem.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

I can't think of any cons

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

I have been running electronic ignition for 15 years I have never had one go bad unless I messed up and left the key on or something else stupid I have used them in my farm tractors my pulling tractors my Farm truck anything that's not diesel I have a pertronix in I don't have to tour with a group because my car is not going to break down if I thought it would I would stay home

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Buff,
For my touring car: When I installed my NuRex electronic ignition 17 years and over 90,000 miles ago, I purchased a spare module to keep under the seat just in case the system failed. That replacement is still under the seat...never seen use. The only trouble I had with the electronic system was when the ground wire was loose and it became intermittent to start. After tightening the ground wire, it never gave a bit of trouble again.

For my only driven in a blue moon CCPU: I like the standard ignition system because it is original. I totally rebuilt the distributor about 7 years ago. I have driven this pickup about 8,500 miles since it was restored about 22 years ago. Truth be told, I rebuilt the distributor in the pickup not because it was not running but because I had not done a very precise job the first time.

To answer your other questions: It is fairly easy to install the electronic kit (Pertronics) being a couple hour job factoring it is your first one. I have installed a couple over the years and it takes me about an hour to install and wire one.
It can be timed much the same way but most guys that install any amount of them use a timing light.
I would suggest ordering a spare module to carry under your seat for 17 years just in case you need it while on the road. I have a couple FSI distributors on various engines and for any car that goes long distances, I carry a spare module. Pretty cheap insurance to get you home.

FYI: The first thing I check on a car that comes into my shop with electronic ignition and spark problems is the condition of the ground wire. Every time it has been a faulty ground. Not once have I replaced a failed module.
Good Day!

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

This has been hashed thru several times in the past here but sometimes a refresher is always good to bring the facts back to the top. Exactly 'what' do you feel you are gaining with an electronic ignition on your Model-A over the original Kettering system??


.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

I had a Pertronix on a 41 Packard. It worked flawlessly. I used their coil. The only problem I had was due to a ignition switch that was a little corroded. I lost some voltage through that switch. You MUST have at least 4.5 volts for the pertronix to work.(6 volt system). I ran a separate wire from the battery to the coil with a toggle switch, cured the low voltage problem. I used the Pertronix for many years without trouble. Just make sure you specify positive ground. John

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

I changed out to an FSI and stuck that other ignition on the shelf, as far as the model A goes. Have you ever tried to start an 8n ford tractor below 32 degrees a petronix ignition lets you go to work instead of getting the chain!

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

If you're a purist, keep the OEM system. If you like to drive your car rather than tinker with the ignition, consider the electronic solution.

There must be something to electronic ignition (EI) as Detroit abandoned the Kettering system in the middle 70’s.

The disadvantage of the mechanical system is the use of breaker points to interrupt the low-voltage high-current through the primary winding of the coil; the points are subject to mechanical wear where they ride the cam to open and shut, as well as oxidation and burning at the contact surfaces from the constant sparking. They require regular adjustment to compensate for wear, and the opening of the contact breakers, which is responsible for spark timing, is subject to mechanical variations. In addition, the spark voltage is also dependent on contact effectiveness, and poor sparking can lead to lower engine efficiency. A mechanical contact breaker system cannot control an average ignition current of more than about 3 amps while still giving a reasonable service life, and this may limit the power of the spark and ultimate engine speed.

Electronic ignition handily solves these problems.


YMMV

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Bill, your point regarding Detroit abandoning the Kettering points system is valid, ...and in my view has about the same validity as Detroit changing to hydraulic brakes, power steering, radial tires, padded dashes, alternators and 12volt systems. In other words, these are indeed improvements however not required modifications.

Yes, electronic ignition does add superiority over a Kettering system when the Kettering system is worn out, but I also find it humorous that folks hang their hat on the premise that if you want to drive your car, then you need an electronic ignition. If that were the case, it would be difficult to explain how so many Model-As were able to be driven many, many trouble-free miles with ignition points & a condenser.


Ohh and Mike, not a 8N but my 860 will fire right off on 6v with points ignition in 10° weather. It does not spin over fast however it has been faithful to start when we need to push snow. Maybe the difference is we have mechanically restored my 860 ignition system back to factory specifications, and as such do not need to mask or bandaid other issues.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Check other threads and posts about pros and cons. One con is that some of the auto advance systems can't get the advance reduced ( or more retarded timing) for high compression heads or to prevent knocking/ pounding of the bearings especially when climbing hills. Lot's of discussion about this and having the ability to manually adjust the spark timing. FS company for example suggests changing the distributor springs to slow the advance or others suggest modifying the (fixed) upper distributor plate to allow it to be moved slightly with the spark lever. A timing light is recommended for the auto advance systems.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

I've run a '29 Tudor Sedan for over 12 years with a Pertronix ignition with absolutely no problems. 12V, negative ground.

I've also run a '29 Roadster for over 12 years with a stock ignition with absolutely no problems. 6V, positive ground.

I will say that the car with electronic ignition starts instantly, whereas the one with stock ignition might take a second or two to start running. Other than that, I can't tell much difference at all. I converted the Tudor Sedan to 12V, neg ground with electronic ignition when I was new to the hobby and was worried about reliability. My fears were probably unfounded.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

those old flat heads Ford tractors RL to start in cold weather

Brent you said a mouthful when you said not an 8in those to tractors my share the same name but that's where the similarities stops.[emoji27]

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Had two modules fail, now back on points, car runs better. Could be me who knows, earthing is quite critical on the Pertronix.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

I've posted this several times, but
After numerous problems, I gave up on my electronic ignition and went back to the original system. Now my model A runs better than ever plus I NOW HAVE CONTROL OF MY SPARK ON HILLS.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Hello Dave, I have had a Nu-Rex ignition in my Model A for about ten years too. I am sure not knocking it because before , starting the car was a chore, now ZOOM! But, I have had some questions about it from the get-go. I had to file down the bump on the top of the rotor quite a lot to get the cap to be able to go on. Occasionally, I hear a tap tap tap from inside the distributor as the rotor spins. It has been about 2,000 easy miles and it starts great and runs very well. I was reading a Les Andrews book about Ignition Timing and he mentions checking the gaps between the tip of the rotor and the distributor body contact points. I did this and noticed that the tip of the rotor is riding a bit high and not spinning squarely past the distributor body contact points about 3/4 of the tip passes over the upper part of the contact points. I have made a drawing to show what I mean. Here is a question: Does the tip of your rotor spin squarely past the contact points or does it ride high like mine? I see that nu-Rex no longer sells this product and I am interested in other people's experiences with their electronic ignitions. Again, I am not knocking the product. Much Appreciated, Dave B.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

This is the first time trying to write on Ford Barn and I am not too handy with computers. It seems like they want me to re-write the message I apologize if it is sent twice. But it looks like I can attach the sketch. The top Picture #1 shows the rotor moving squarely past the contact points. The bottom, Picture #2 shows hot on my car the rotor rides high as it moves past the contact points.............Darn, it asks me what the URL if the image is and I don't know what that means. Oh well.

Re: Electronic ignition kit for model a
 

Joe, Tap tap tap from inside the distributor? Could be the rotor hitting the contacts on the distributor body. Best check your bushings to see if the rotating assembly is worn.
Good Day!