Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

^^

Yes. The thickness of the adaptor compensates for the length of the cam.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

I finally got one of the valves out.

http://i1026.photobucket.com/albums/...ps915ccfac.jpg

Thanks to everyone's help.

The camshaft does not rotate I think some of the lifters
Are stuck. How can I go about removing the valves that are in the
Open position?

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Try this, if the valve is open, turn engine on stand with valve pocket facing up, pour a small(capful) amount of your favorite flammamable product, I used denatured alcohol, then light it. Let it burn completely out then go in with your valve fork and try to move the guide. The direction you move it will depend on wether the "C" clip is still holding guide.
I'm tearing apart a 1940 block now and all the exhaust guides are stuck.
P.S. Do this in an open area, and keep a fire ext handy.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Unless you are wanting to save the valve and springs for some reason the best method is to cut them. You will be forever trying to take it apart otherwise. A cut-off wheel works as do other instruments of destruction. That's just the nature of the beast with an engine that is completely curded up and even at that it is a major job getting the guides out. You will be far better off replacing the valves and spring and guides on an engine in this condition.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Love this one! This guy gets the job done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdLVtOxdpD4

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

On my rebuild, I got the crank in, but then had trouble with the cam installation. This is the second time I have found new cam bearings that are too small for an original worn cam. I had to use a brake cylinder hone to enlarge it enough to install the cam. The crank went in with no problem. After the regrind to 0.020 under, plastigage showed 0.0015 clearance. Endplay was about 0.005. This is a 59AB crank in a 38-41 block. Vanpelt had the retainers to convert to the later rear rope seals. This block had already been bored 1/8" over and the walls were too thin, so we sleeved every cylinder to 1/8" over. I was hoping to use the original full floating rod bearings, because it was supposedly a recent rebuild (heard that before?). It had too much clearance, so I had the crank pins reground to 0.020 under. The rods showed only about 0.001 wear on the ID, so I had them resized back to standard. I'm using NOS copper/bronze rod bearings I found on ebay. I did a test installation of the rods. I was expecting this to be a long process, but they seem to turn fine with slight drag on both the ID and OD, so I think I'm ready to install pistons. I'm using the original 4 ring pistons. Is there a front and back to these pistons? After that I will move to the valves. I am using 8BA valves and adjustable lifter, so that should be easy.
Larry Young

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Might want to consider starting a new thread on this, it is not directly related to the current thread and some folks on here might want to follow how your assembly goes.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

We talked about full floating bearings above and that was the main reason for my post. I was surprised they fit so easily. Or, am I missing something?

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Nope, just thought you might get more noticed on a new thread, if you like it here great.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Hi Larry, just an important tip to others here doing any assembling on ANY build, doesn't matter the mfr, the very first item to check is to make certain the cam fits the newly installed cam brgs, this is done first!!

When we do the cam brgs here we always try a cam for fit BEFORE the job is delivered and the customer finds the issue.

We have almost all brands (mfr's) of cams to work with, we tape up ALL the lobes and any gears and try it for fit! There is nothing worse than a customer calling and saying "I can't get the cam in OR I can't turn it when it goes in", this is very frustrating to the assembler. And this is why I say this should be the very first checkpoint. Too many assemblers go ahead and install the crank, rods, and pistons first and then "hit" the panic button when it's the cams turn! Having it all together makes a "cam-brg-repair" that much more difficult.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I'm curious if you "honed" directly on the cam brgs OR the cam brg holes in the block?? You cannot "hone" babbited material, the grit WILL embed it self in there!

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

I was hoping to reuse these valves if I can.

The only way I have been able to get the keepers to drop out is to lift the valve up with the bar "pickle fork tool" and place a piece of wood on top of the valve and hit it down with a hammer. Hoping this method is ok.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

I know not to hone Babbitt, but did not know what else to do. I've bought bearings for two engines now and both sets of cam bearings were two small. Who makes bearings that fit?

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

I would use a conventional spring compressor. The big C shaped thing that has a snap over lever on top. I just hook it under the spring retainer and apply some pressure. The other end is pushing down on the valve. It usually requires a small hammer jolt to make the retainer seperate and release the keepers. I have not done a set with the cones at the bottom. They may also need shock to release.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Hi Larry, after doing a bunch of these Flatheads I have to admit I've never had a single cam brg issue, ever??

We use only the Durabond line and we have them "Teflon" coated by Calico when the customer requires the coatings. We've been using this procedure since the coatings began. We like it due to the fact most cam-to-journal clearances on this platform are generally on the loose side, hence the coating!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I would strongly recommend getting an accurate size on all 3 cam tunnel holes, this is a starting point! The holes should be 1.928" +/- .0005"! Also double check the cam journals, they should be between 1.796"/1.797".

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Macdozer:
The only way I have been able to get the keepers to drop out is to lift the valve up with the bar "pickle fork tool" and place a piece of wood on top of the valve and hit it down with a hammer. Hoping this method is ok.
Becareful with the hammer valves are easily bent. Use the big C compresser.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

I have been using the Valve spring compressor and think I have gotten the hang of getting these valves out. Only four more to go. Thanks for all the help.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

I have gotten the block all disassembled and now ready to take it to the machine shop. Going to take the block to L &R machine in clarmont, nh who have done a bunch of the flatheads.
Just going to have it mega fluxed first hopefully everything is ok. Is there any recommendations or advice that might be usefull to know.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Good luck on your 59A build! I built mine last winter with the help of Ol'Ron's book and many members of the Barn. My 37 is my daily driver and so far no problems. you could probably search my threads and posts to help answer some of your questions. Good Luck!

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

Hi Mac, mag the block as a second choice, pressure test it as a first choice. Magging is NOT 100% effective, pressure testing is the only guarantee. Doing both is fine!

Ask the shop if they use a block-plate when finish honing the bores?? and see if they are able to pin the heads and gaskets to the block like the SBC's??

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Also ask about modifying the block for the 95% oil filtering setup. This is the time to have that done.

Re: 59 AB engine rebuild
 

What does the block plate do when finish honing the blocks?
And what does pin the heads and gaskets to the block mean?

How necessary is the 95% oil filtering setup?