Pan Gasket
 

What should I get a Paper or Cork Pan Gasket?

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Either will work. I use cork coated with Hylomar non-hardening silicone on both sides. Snug the bolts only enough to make contact with both surfaces (block and pan) - maybe 10-15 ft-lb max. You likely will NOT be able to flatten the lock washer with that torque, don’t worry about it. Check after running (the gasket will gradually compress uniformly) and re-snug if necessary.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I go with the cork. Sometimes there is a problem making the rear main cork half circle seal seat properly with the flat gasket square extension. I have done both on this - trim the square on the cork gasket, or cut the square rear main gasket "short" to "butt up against" the flat pan gasket.

Permatex No. 2 is my friend.

Joe K

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Yes, you can smear a dab of Permatex #2 across the face of the rear square cork gasket, both the block side and the pan side, before attaching the pan. Same at the front main seal. The corks in the pan should be just a skotsch proud of the metal so they squish when the pan is tightened.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

How to do the ends. and i attach with Indian Shellac! Cork.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

This link has a good article on installing the pan gasket.
https://modelatouring.club/wp-conten...et-article.pdf

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Sehr good advice, which I really need right now.


Thanks at all!

Re: Pan Gasket
 

My engine builder (Ron Kelley, RIP) did not use a gasket, he just used a layer of Permatex.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

A good tip that is glossed over unless you read very carefully is written in that really good article. And told to me by experts on this forum is to clean the thread holes and bolts and lightly apply permatex black gasket maker to the bolt threads for the 4 front bolts of the oil pan. Actually three of the four bolts go all the way through to the oil sump area, following that article my oil pan is 100% oil leak/weep free!

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I was actually thinking about this before…
Is there any downside to doing it like this?

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Before you re-install the pan, make sure it's flat. Sometimes, maybe quite often, the area around the bolt holes in the pan are stretched from overtightening the bolts, and these areas need to be "re-flattened".

Re: Pan Gasket
 

You need to let it fully cure before running, and spread only the minimum required. Any bits of RTV squish-out that flake off may enter an oil passage and block it.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Hey,


pure sealing surfaces using elastic sealing material are indeed used today on flat surfaces. Only in a very thin layer. However, this only works in the long term if the surfaces are perfectly flat against each other and have a very low surface roughness.


With a more or less uneven sheet metal oil pan, a cork or perbunan gasket, for example, compensates for such irregularities.

Applying only a thick layer of sealant has disadvantages: it is not mechanically robust, it squeezes out inwards at the surfaces, and it takes a long time to cure.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I understand...


My problem is that the oil pan is more 'sweating' than actually dripping, i always see some seepage where the the gasket is. I thought why use a gasket when actually, with modern RTV red or Hylomar a much better sealing effect can be acchieved. I thought that mybe there is a problem with the front or back sealing of the crankshaft.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

You can do both. Use the cork gasket with Loctite 5926 on the oil pan side and Hylomar M, or better H, on the block side.
Cork is allowed to "seed" a little; the pores will fill with oil. This maintains its elasticity and allows the cork to swell slightly.


The front sealant bead and the rear gasket are separate issues. I'm still working on the latter.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I did not realize that 3 of the front 4 bolts go all the way through. Thank you for the tip. I have a small bottle of that Permatex 2, or 3 ( I can't remember) that never really fully hardens.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Well, they go into the side timing gear cover and front cover, not into the sump, so they are not immersed in standing oil, only what runs down the inside of the covers. (I don’t have a side cover at hand, can’t remember if that one goes all the way through.) Still, whatever can be sealed does cut down the possibility of leaks.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Do you have any oil leaks ?

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Do you mean ‚seep‘? So does a cork gasket ‚sweat‘ a little oil and that‘s okay?

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I use the paper gasket with a thin coat of silicone on both sides. It doesn't compress like the cork gasket does. On the front I use a modern seal incased in a aluminum housing with an oi ring around it with a light coat of silicone around it.In the rear I use a thick bead of silicone in the grove and set the oil pan down into it little over 1/8". I've been doing it this way for 25yrs. no leaks.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Weird, with the pan off I could see and feel the ends of the holes, especially the one on the right side, in fact there was a glob of sludge I brushed off. But anyhoo it has definitely fixed my weep around the bolt heads issue I had.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Tom,






















































































That's right, cork gaskets do "seed" a little, and that was intentional for their function. Before I switched to the lubricating oil industry, I worked in quality control at the Ford plant. For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.





For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Beispielsweise wurden in den 1970er Jahren die Korkventildeckeldichtungen für die V4- und V6-Motoren zunächst beidseitig mit Fett versehen.




For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets on the V-4 and V-6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.
Beispielsweise wurden in den 1970er Jahren die Korkventildeckeldichtungen der V4- und V6-Motoren zunächst beidseitig mit Fett versehen.



Because this proved cumbersome in rapid mass production, they were later coated only with talc during production. However, the routine inspection procedure still specified grease fitting. Rubber gaskets were also used briefly. They didn't work well with the additives in the new heavy-duty oil grades. The gaskets first swelled up, then became brittle and leaked. On a slightly different note: Incidentally, the leaf springs in the factory hall were also coated with graphite and MoS2. Later, they were fitted with plastic inserts. Just briefly mentioned because it is very often recommended that leaf springs should not be lubricated.


























Feedback geben

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Tom,

that's right, cork gaskets do "seed" a little, and that was intentional for their function. Before I switched to the lubricating oil industry, I worked in quality control at the Ford plant. For example, in the 1970s, the cork valve cover gaskets for the V4 and V6 engines were initially fitted with grease on both sides.

Because this proved cumbersome in rapid mass production, they were later coated only with talc during production. However, the routine inspection procedure still specified grease fitting.

Rubber gaskets were also used briefly. They didn't work well with the additives in the new HD oil grades. The gaskets first swelled up, then became brittle and leaked. -


On a slightly different note:
Incidentally, the leaf springs in the factory mounting hall were also coated with graphite and MoS2. Later, they were fitted with plastic inserts.


Just briefly mentioned because it is very often recommended that leaf springs should not be lubricated.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Very true.

Have you found drops of oil dripping from the oil pan bolts ( over entire side of oil pan front to rear of oil pan) on oil pump side of engine, after sealing the bolts as mentioned above?

Oil will drip from these 1/2 inch oil pan bolts IF oil leaks from the front timing gear cover!

The engine tilts 3 degrees toward the rear so oil runs down side of oil pan (from front to rear).

There are TWO places where oil leaks originate from.

1. From the 7 bolts on FRONT of timing cover (one bolt is hidden in recess near generator mounting bolt)

2. Also the two bolts which hold the small SIDE timing cover on.

SEALING threads as mentioned above will cure this problem.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

A helpful tip when installing the pan. Take 2 or 3 #5 sholder screws 1-1/2" long and cut the heads off and install one midpoint on each side of block mounting surface. These will be used as guide pins for precisely locating the pan. Install the rear gasket with your favorite sealant. Place a thin film of sealant on the pan mounting surface and place the pan gasket on top. Then apply a thin film of sealant either to the top of the gasket or the mounting surface on the block. Raise the pan, align it with the 2 locating pins, raise into position, and install pan bolts.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I stick the cork gasket to the pan with aviation Permatex. I put a thin coat of grease on the surface between the pan and block. The gasket seals but doesn't get stuck to the block so you can take it off to check the bearings and still reuse it 3-4 times.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

X-2 , reusable many times if you don’t over toque the bolts !

Re: Pan Gasket
 

When it comes to sealing the threads of bolts that penetrate into the block I have always used Indian Head shellac. Works very well and doesn't have nearly as much potential to create a blob on the end of the bolt inside of the block that then could break free and cause issues with oil passages.
I also use the shellac to seal both side of the paper gaskets on the timing gear covers and water pump.
For the valve cover I use the Indian Head shellac to stick a cork gasket to the valve cover but leave the face of the gasket to the block dry so it can be removed easily.
On the pan I use a cork gasket with no sealant except a dab of RTV at the ends of the gaskets where they join at the rear main and on the ends of the rope gaskets at the front.
For the cork gasket that goes into the grove on the rear main cap I put a thin coat of the shellac in the grove and allow it to get very tacky before placing the cork gasket into the grove. This helps keep the gasket from pulling free while placing the pan into place.
Sometimes this gasket is a bugger to get into the grove. I routinely place this gasket into my bench vice and squeeze it firmly and then quickly put it into the grove. Works well for me.
If using the Indian Head shellac on the paper gaskets you will have a thin bead of it squeeze out after tightening things up. Resist the urge to wipe it off as it will smear all over your nice new paint job. Instead wait a couple of days to allow it to dry and then using a sharp object it will scrape off easily.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Guten Abend, Dave.


Are we talking about the same material?



You wrote "Indian Head shellac." Here, we only know shellac as a way to finish wood surfaces. It's an old, dying craft, used, for example, on particularly expensive pianos.
It's cochineal dissolved in alcohol and very thin, like water. It's applied in several layers, with long drying times between each layer, and polished layer by layer.


Using the lacquer for sealing? That's completely new to me. Did I understod right?

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Hello Werner,

I think that what you are describing is similar in chemical make up but what I am referring to is a product that is quite thick and sticky. I believe it is made up of secretions from a female beetle.

I've attached an image of what I am using.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I am struggling with the cork seal at the rear main bearing cap. I have soaked it in water and that must be making it springy and hard to squeeze into its groove in the cap. Currently, I have it drying in my vise to narrow it.

Any other tips?

It was easier the other two times I installed it.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

There are two widths of the rear oil pan packing A-6701-BR 13/32" and A-6701-DR 3/8" wide. The gasket set I used came with both.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I soak mine in hot water, then let it dry inside of an empty quart yogurt/sour cream container, that's just about the right diameter.