Plastic Fuel Filters
 

I had posted earlier that I have gunk in my gas tank. I'm trying to decided if I want to remove the tank and have it professionally cleaned or try to clean it out on the car. I was thinking that maybe I could remove the sediment bowl screen and put a clear plastic filter in temporary to catch everything and see how bad it is. I don't really like this idea, but it's a thought. Are they a fire hazard? Will they cut down on fuel flow? Anyone else use one?

Re: Plastic Fuel Filters
 

disconnect fuel line at the carb, drain into safe container.

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That could work, too. I am concerned that even after I get these rust particles out there will be more later.

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I believe the tank should be cleaned properly and there are YouTube videos on how to do it. Otherwise you'll likely be dealing with debris in your fuel for a really, really long time.

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If you have a glass sediment bowl you can put a NAPA 3039 or Wix 33039 filter in it.

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I would:

1: drain the entire tank using a filter into a gas can.

2: Remove the shutoff under the tank.

3: Look to see if there is a pencil filter installed, you should have one.

4: Use the above filer that bobc mentioned. They are great and do not cut the fuel rate at all. They are not a fire hazard.

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When I had the Pencil Filter installed things seemed to get worse. Unless it was just a coincidence......

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I have used one of those plastic filters on my cars for years. The last thing I want when I'm a hundred miles from the nearest town is a fuel blockage when they are sooo easy to avoid. I have had to change the filer roadside but that only takes a few minutes and we're on our way again.
BTW, if the filter is mounted vertically, you can monitor how choked up it is by watching how high the fuel is inside. A clear, new filter will have only a very thin line of fuel in the bottom. A filter close to disposal will be nearly full. The sediment clogs the filter from the bottom and as it becomes blocked, the fuel must go through the filter higher than where it is clogged. I always carry a spare.
Obviously, my cars are drivers so practical measures such as this are not only allowable (IMHO) but highly desirable. I fully understand why a purist who wants his car to be the way Henry made it would not want anything to do with a visible, non standard filter.

Re: Plastic Fuel Filters
 

My caution is to make sure that any plastic filter is located well away from the exhaust manifold and muffler. If the plastic melts then you'll have a stream of fuel running and a good chance of a catastrophic fire. Same goes for rubber or neoprene fuel lines.

The old VW bugs and busses did not come with a fuel filter but many folks installed one between the fuel pump and the carburetor. Most such aftermarket filters were installed with dodgy clamps or no clamps at all. The air-cooled VW engine bay could get pretty darned hot and, if the filter came free of the fuel line, there was fuel spraying all over which usually resulted in a fire. As With the Model A, the fuel is supplied from the tank via gravity flow so any such fire would have a steady feed of flammable liquid. Unlike the Model A, the air-cooled VW's had no shut-off valve to stop the flow. In the desert Southwest it was once not unusual to see the burned up shell of an air-cooled VW on the side of the road. Clean gasoline burns just as well as dirty gas.

Re: Plastic Fuel Filters
 

I have a plastic fuel filter on one of my cars installed about half way down the fuel line. It works fine, catches fine rust particles and has never given me any issues. As others have said, I carry a spare just in case.

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I use the same filter.

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My VW bug caught fire when the fuel line came loose. I smothered the fire with a blanket, re connected the fuel line, and went on my way.

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I purchased an AA truck this past summer. The fuel tank looks good inside, but there was so much really fine rust in there that the float valve of the carb stuck open, flooding the carb. Usually multiple times a drive. If there was a competition for how fast one could take off and clean a carb, I'd win it. I've had that much practice.

I tried first adding a glass sediment bowl. The rust still got past the fine screen. I added a WIX filter inside the sediment bowl. Rust still got through. I finally figured out the filter was defective - the glue that holds the paper to the metal cap was not tightly sealed, leaving gaps for the rust to still get through. I'd ordered a set of 6 WIX filters and every single one was the same way. Once I knew what to look for, the two filters I bought from NAPA were the same way. In desperation, I came up with a novel approach. Not a solution for those who want original, but it works for me and allows me to enjoy my truck.

I purchased a water separating fuel filter from Bass Pro Shops (amazon carries many of similar design). I used two 100 pound magnets bolted to the fuel filter housing to attach it to my firewall so I didn't have to drill any new holes. This truck bounces down the winding, rutted, bumpy back roads of WV and those magnets hold tight with no issues. I haven't yet replaced the sediment bowl on my car with this system, but I plan to. It's made a huge difference on my truck - I went from multiple issues every ride to absolutely none.

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I just installed a plastic fuel filter as insurance, even tough my tank was done with gastankrenu. No problems. I did have to richen up the lo speed screw a bit.

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Any thoughts on using a couple of neodymium magnets on the underside of the tank to catch stray rust particulate?

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Brilliant!

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The magnets to attach the filter to the firewall are genius. Well done.

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Not sure of what the magnet is actually composed of in my sedan. It is used to control Heart pacemakers. I mount it under the tank next to the gas petcock.

Re: Plastic Fuel Filters
 

Guten Abend.


I have the same problem, a lot of it. The inside of the tank is badly rusted.
I've fitted the glass bowl with the special paper liner, then added a plastic fuel filter too in the fuel line, and I'm still finding lots of small particles in the carburetor.
So I routinely clean it every 500 km.


The idea of ​​putting some strong neodymium magnets under the bottom of the tank is excellent, thanks!

Re: Plastic Fuel Filters
 

I was always told that iron oxide (rust) was not magnetic.

Re: Plastic Fuel Filters
 

If I may add a thought.... Vinegar will dissolve rust....If you can drain the tank...fill it with vinegar let it sit about 48 hours or longer...then flush...flush flush.... No more rust. When I say fill it...I mean fill it...!!! WHATEVER YOU DO...DO NOT USE A VACUUM CLEANER TO PLAY AROUND NEAR THE GAS TANK...THE GAS FUMES WILL EXPLODE IN THE VACUUM CLEANER AND YOU WILL BE NO MORE.

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It is magnetic.

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Gosh some some ideas. I didn't see anyone adding the chain, and having a helper adjitate.

Whatever you do, do not take it to a radiator shop to have it boiled out. A shop will simply change the metal chemistry, and give you a giant screen door.

Re: Plastic Fuel Filters
 

Good Morning all...I've had the same issue of fine rust in the fuel tank. Years ago, like in the mid 60's an old guy told me to do two things. First, to put a magnet into the glass bowl on the firewall. Second, purchase a glass fuel filter for a 1955 Thunderbird, or other car from that time and put it into the fuel line, down in the area where the line is horizental (sp) and put a magnet in that glass bowl as well. This simple system allows me to see when the first magnet has turned red and then when a bit of rust is building up on the second magnet and it is time to take the bowls off and wipe them out and clean the rust off of the magnets...It's worked for me for years...not quite stock...but then neither am I! Ernie in Arizona

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From what I’ve read, pure iron oxide is not attracted by a magnet, but what comes out of our tank may be other stuff that magnets do attract, and the iron oxide clings to that other stuff. At some point there may be tiny flakes of iron oxide that are not clinging to another material so will bypass the magnet.
People on this forum have shown a “dead leg” to help more particles settle out of the fuel before going to the carb. It’s basically a T fitting interrupting the horizontal fuel line, with a tall (several inches) pipe descending vertically. The original cast iron sediment bowl (not the glass kind) is not very deep. I am guessing the dead leg would work even better if the fuel flow velocity across the top is slower, giving the particles more time to settle out. This would suggest the cross section of the horizontal line should be as large as is practical.
(I searched online for “dead leg” and got a variety of other meanings, so maybe this is not a typical usage of the term.)

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Are the clear plastic fuel filters resistant to regular gasoline w/10 or 15% ethanol in it?

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We took my brother in laws tank to a Renu dealer. I guess their everywhere. He cut three holes in the bottom of the tank and then sand blasted the inside to get around the baffles and then welded them shut and primed and pressure tested. The best thing that he ever did. The gas is as clear as can be. You will have to repaint your tank with this process.

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Did they coat the inside?

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As I stated earlier, my first option would be to properly clean and seal the tank to avoid having to deal with the rust for a very long time. However, if that wasn't an option due to time or expense I would add a metal in-line filter.


There are automobile manufacturers that use plastic fuel filters from the factory and those have documented time/mileage replacement intervals. If I had to use an ethanol blend I would change them more often than recommended. I have seen non-OEM plastic fuel filters that are labeled "ethanol resistant" on the packaging but what does that even mean? How long between replacements?


My choice for an in line filter would be similar to the Fram G15 which has a metal housing. Yes, you can't see through it but you can remove it from the car periodically and back-flush it with solvent to see how much debris there is. Plus they're inexpensive (about $10 USD) and readily available.
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