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wood clear What do you guys use/recommend to shiny clear coat (foam brush or spray) the oak top bows and tack strips? Minwax Urethane, Polyurethane (which one, there are several listed of each?) or what product? THANKS!
I have no experience in such matters of wood, except to cut, split, and burn it for winter heat. |
Re: wood clear I burn wood too, its a wonderful thing. Open car? closed car? Any wood I do in old cars I like to treat with a 50/50 mix of turpentine and linseed oil just for peace of mind, Ford did nothing on hidden closed car tops, now, open car tops and woody cars are another story.
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Re: wood clear Open car. Roadster. Polished stainless top irons. Polished stainless fasteners, screws, nuts and bolts. Nice Oak bows and tack strip.
I was wanting a very shiny, durable, high gloss look for the Oak bows. I was told not to use a Polyurethane, but a Spar Urethane for "outdoor" use! A google search, and on Lowes website resulted in several different "kinds" of Spar Urethanes. Now the question is, which one of those Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethanes do I use? A part # suggestion would be great. |
Re: wood clear I used Z-Spar Captain gloss on my Dearborn 40 Woodie.
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Re: wood clear Pettit Captain’s is pretty good, but Pettit Flagship is better. We switched over at out boat shop.
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Re: wood clear yeah; go nautical.
this is what "the boss" had the painters use on his oak thresholds: https://www.epifanes.com/page/clear-finishes would not surprise me if it was overkill, but it was the environment for it.* *both application & boss |
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Re: wood clear When living in New Mexico, I coated a wooden-panel outside front door with five coats of an exterior polyurathane 20 years ago: i.e., one brushed coat, light sanding, wait a day for drying and to do the next brushed coat & light sanding. The sun hit the door quite directly when on the building. It needed protection, no doubt.
*prior to the first brushed coat, I had the door sandblasted. |
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Re: wood clear Thank you for contacting Minwax.
There are two versions, an oil-based and a water-based. Main aesthetic difference is that the oil-based has a yellow or amber tone to it, or as marketing describes it as being "warm". Water-based will be non-ambering. Technical differences is that the oil-based cleans up with paint thinner, water-based with soap & water. No difference in performance, although either version is considered a maintenance product, meaning that you should reapply a maintenance coat every year or as conditions warrant. The more sun exposure, the more frequent the reapplication. Part # for oil-based (quart) 63200444 Part # for water-based (quart) 630500444 I hope this helps. Good luck with your car project! |
Re: wood clear I also used Sikkens Cetol Marine finishes on various areas of my wood Lyman boat. Easy application and easy to touch up.
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Re: wood clear Be careful. Most Cetol has pigment in it. It also takes about 2 days to dry. Epifanes does as well. It used to dry overnight, but they changed the formula a while ago.
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Re: wood clear Another vote for Epifanes, been using it every year for 25 years. We do a lot of exterior doors with it as well. Probably the best varnish out there.
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After talking with pettitpaint.com, it was suggested that I use the Old Salem Clear Sealer, then multiple coats of the Flagship High Build varnish on the Oak top bows and tack strip. Thanks again. |
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Used Petits on my '50. Laid down beautifully with a good brush.
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Re: wood clear nice job
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Re: wood clear I’ve used them all ,EPIFANES IN MY OPINION is the best
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Re: wood clear DISASTER! 2/1/2 WEEKS WASTED, + $150 for a quart of each.
Got the, Pettit EZ WOOD SEALER Clear Penetrating Sealer #2018 Pettit FLAGSHIP HIGH BUILD VARNISH #2015 $20 high-quality edging paint brush Followed Pettit's written instructions exactly! Sand the wood with 220, then wipe with a tack rag, apply a "heavy" coat of the #2018 sealer. Wait 24 hours, sand the sealer with 220-grit sandpaper, wipe with a tack rag and apply one coat of Flagship #2015. I am instructed to wait 24 hours, sand the Flagship with 220 wipe with another tack rag, then apply the 2nd coat. Didn't make it that far! Everything looked TERRIFIC, until around the 20 hour mark. The ENTIRE 3-piece wood tack strip lifted and wrinkled!!! That must mean the varnish wasn't compatible with the sealer! Even though the instructions stated it was to be used with each other! Took some lacquer thinner and stripped all that crud off. Let the wood sit in the sun for a day to totally evaporate. Took a DA with 220 grit and sanded the wood again. Wiped off with a tack rag. Skipped the sealer coat and went directly with a coat of #2015 varnish. 24 hours later, 1st varnish coat looked GREAT! Hand sanded with the 220 and wiped with another tack rag, applied the 2nd coat of varnish. 24 hours later the 2nd coat looked GREAT! Hand sanded the 2nd coat with 220 and wiped with a tack rag. Applied the 3rd coat. 20 hours later, I noticed a slight roughness (?) partially along the bottom sharp edges. At the 24 hour mark sanded the 3rd coat, removing the slight roughness. About 10 hours there were 1/8'-1/4" dia sploches of wrinkles. Spent that day sanding the wrinkled places smooth. Then sanded the smoothed 3rd coat with 400, wiped that then appied the 4th coat of varnish 24 hous later all looked GOOD except for that slight roughness along the bottom sharp edges. Sanded that with 400 and applied the 5th coat. 24 hours later, sanded the 5th coat with 400, wiped, and applied the 6th coat. 24 hours later there were wrinkle spots here and there all over the wood strips! 48 hours and there are almost as many wrinkles now as happened after the 1st coat of vanrish was applied over the sealer! I wrote to Pettit last week and no reply, yet. Every day now there are more wrinkles appearing. Like those "monsters" on the '50's Si-Fi movies. They (Pettit) HAD to have sent me a bad batch of sealer and varnish! I'm waiting for Pettit's reply! Then strip again, and apply something else. Ridiculous, to spend almost a month trying to varnish a 3-piece top bottom tack strip! Have any of you guys EVER have any problems with that Pettit Flagship!? |
Re: wood clear The McCloskey "Man O' War" on my avatar is over forty years old and remains like new.
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I'm having a terrible time of it. Oh well. My "heat sickness" I keep experiencing (39 year old brain is being told not what to do by a 78 year old body) is nothing compared to all these floods in NC and TX! Even here in WV, the towns below, above me, and both panhandles have been flooded hard! Geeze! Have you RECENTLY purchased and applied any of that "Man O War" Spar Varnish? I am being told that most of those highly recommended Spar Varnishes have now been required by the EPA to change their formulas! Because of the restrictions, those varnishes are now at the bottom of the "quality control" ladder, and are no longer like they used to be! Good Lord, one now has to be a Chemist just to paint a 2X4! Not to mention, something of high quality that requires several steps. |
Re: wood clear I had a antique wooden boat restorer here in town that I have known for years tell me his process of applying SPAR varnish on his boar restorations. He would start out by applying 3-5 coats of varnish at fairly close to full strength, thinned just enough to flow out fairly smooth. light sand in between coats. Next he would thin by 25% and apply another 3-5 coats. Sand enough to flatten each coat. THEN thin that mix another 25% and repeat. Final time, thin another 25% and apply five coats sanding after each coat. Good quality bristle brush
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