Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

My A has a terrible vibration! I found out that the engine fan broke and about half of it is gone. I bought a new one an thought it would be an easy swap, but it looks like a have to take off the radiator. I found an old thread about this but are there any good YouTube videos or instructions for how you do this? Never done it before. Thank you!

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Photo

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Where did the rest of the fan go?

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

You're lucky.

Go buy your lottery ticket NOW before the Gods of Chance decide you need a "leveling."

Joe K

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

If your replacement fan is a 2 blade fan, you don't have to take the radiator out. You can just loosen the nuts on the two radiator rods, lift the rods out of the slot and tilt the radiator forward a little bit. That will give you enough room to remove the water pump with the fan in a horizontal position. You'll want to remove the pump with the fan because removing the fan from the pump shaft may take some pounding.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

When I replaced my fan with the one piece aluminum one, I didn't mess with the radiator, I just placed a piece of cardboard against it and then loosened up the water pump and the whole assembly came out easily.
You are EXTREMELY lucky that fan didn't shoot thru your rad or hood!

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Thank you for the advice. I have no idea what happened. The spot where it is broken does look a little rusted. I don’t recall hearing the fan break while driving, I just started it up one day and there was a ton of vibration, which led me to inspect the engine and that’s when I found the problem. It’s just a two blade fan so I’ll try to replace it myself.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

KCW was extremely lucky. Just another testament why everyone with a stock steel fan should change it out for an aluminum one as soon as posible.

I see the vendors are out of stack again, I recommend you put yourself on the waiting list.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

KCW, both Will and 1928 are 100% correct on what they told you.

Follow their directions and also get yourself to the nearest store and pick up a lottery ticket. You dodged a bullet on this one.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

That is a great photo! Bob Bidonde, you should be able to use that in one of your presentations on why you replace the fan.

And KCW, please do try to find out where the rest of it went to put a closure to the story. It might be lurking in one of your engine pans...

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Hello, also check clearance on the inner pulley area to the water pump,sometimes the fan pulley area will rub on water pump , make sure it spins freely, if not you will want to tgrind some stock off the pump.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I have a stupid question - where are the radiator rods located that I have to loosen? Trying to do this in my own. Thank you!

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

The rods from the firewall to the radiator, just loosen the nuts and remove the rods , have you removed the hood ? If not your going to have to prop the hood up .

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Got it - did that and it was simple. It seems to me that I will need to remove the radiator she’ll. Is that correct? Also, in order to tilt the radiator forward I will have to loose the at least the top hose. Is that right? Finally, there is a metal bar to which the headlights are mounted too. It will block the radiator from tilting forward. If I remove the shell then I will get maybe a few inches more of space. So I have to remove that bar and the headlights? I was able to easily loosen the fan from the water pump, but of course can remove it due to the position of the radiator. Thank you for the advice! I’d really like to complete this myself. Thank you again!

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Depending upon the thickness of the radiator core, you may have to also loosen the four headlight bar nuts so that you can tilt the bar forward to gain additional clearance to remove the water pump from the cylinder head. You don't need to actually take the headlight bar off; just run the nuts off as far as possible without them leaving the bolts. Then can you tilt the headlight bar forward to gain that extra clearance.
Yes, you will need to loosen the upper radiator hose to tilt the radiator forward. Drain about half of the coolant so that it doesn't flow out when the hose is separated from the radiator. Removing the radiator shell will not make any difference.
Marshall

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Thank you! Another foolish question - how do I drain the radiator?

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

There should be a drain valve in the lower radiator hose pipe, if not just loosen the clamps and let the water drain. Someone may have replaced the pipe with a single hose in the past. Attached is a photo of the lower drain pipe and a close up of the pet cock for draining the radiator.

Cahrlie Stephens

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Thank you! I’ve got the hood off and everything loose. I need to tilt the radiator a few inches to get the broken fan off. I can only tilt it a few millimeters. Do I need to loosen the bolts that hold the radiator down underneath the car? These particular bolts have springs in them. There is not much play in the tilting. Thanks for the help!

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Got the old fan off! That was tough. Got the new one on, but with the fan belt in the pulley I can’t line up the center of the pulley with the water pump shaft? Any way to loosen the belt?

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

You loosen the belt by loosening the bolt holding the generator and moving it. I and not sure what you mean by line up, any photos?

Charlie Stephens

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Unless someone has really cranked down on the nuts over those springs, there should be enough "give" to tilt the radiator forward. Don't forget that you are also pulling on the lower radiator hoses and water return pipe, which will offer more resistance to tilting than the two radiator mount bolts and springs. You could try loosening the mounting bolt nuts, but I doubt that will give you the extra tilt movement needed. Depending upon the angle of the water return pipe (it's variable), you may need to loosen the lower radiator hose clamps so that there will be more freedom for the lower portion of the radiator to tilt forward. That means, it will also be necessary to completely drain the cooling system in order to avoid one big wet mess.

Part of the difficulty removing the water pump from the head is the four pump studs. They stick out and impede an easy twisting and removal of the pump. While you have the pump out, replace those in-head mounting studs with the repo bolts that have the nuts integrated on their shafts. The next time you need to remove the water pump (and there will always be a next time with this design!), the studs will come out and you won't have to tilt the radiator as far forward for the pump to be removed sideways. This doesn't help you now, but it will later.
Marshall

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Got the belt on the fan pulley but only did so by removing the belt from the generator. Not sure how I loosen the generator to get the pulley back in the generator. Tips appreciated! The is way harder than I expected!

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Here’s a photo:

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Most of the time I just pull the generator bolt out to install the belt.You will find some manuals telling you to just that on the A.This isn't a modern car with a skinny belt that slides right over the edge of the pulley.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I need to replace my fan as well and this is a super helpful thread. Thanks!

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I just replaced my fan belt, slipped the belt over the fan and no it’s pulley, next was to get the belt over the crank pulley which can make a preacher curse, next was the generator pulley, loosened the generator tensioner and the mounting bolt, making sure the belt stays on the crank pulley the fan pulley and roll the belt over the generator pulley by turning the engine over by hand.

Removal of an old squealing belt is simple, use a utility knife !

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I got a one inch longer belt to make things easier.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Deleted - duplicate advice.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

KCW I think he should buy one more tool to help you on your Model A - Purchase the Les Andrews Model A Ford Mechanics handbook. It will walk you through most of the maintenance and repairs that will come your way

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I agree best tool to have. I bought mine before delivery of my first Model A.
I'm still amazed that some Model A owners still use these old fan blades that are known to self destruct.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I think I’ve got to loosen the generator and then tip it towards the engine. Just having some trouble getting the bolt loose. Any tips? Thanks to everyone who has helped me with this. It has been a lot tougher than I thought.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

You got it, 1/2" bolt, should be 3/4" wrenches needed.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Use a 3/4" socket with a long extension to get to the nut on the gen. Usually the nut is on the firewall side of the generator, but it also could be facing the radiator.

Also, get one of these tools. It helps when trying to stretch a tight belt on or off.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose...%2C100&sr=8-19

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Back off the adjustment bolt on the generator position and tip the gen towards the engine block to loosen the belt. Also buy the water pump bolts from a Model A supplier that have fixed nuts. Whole bolts comes off block and helps remove pump assembly. SNYDER'S A-8501-mbm

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

To remove hoses, without the special tool of Post #34, twist the hose at the connection with a pair of channel lock pliers until it breaks loose. It can easily be removed then.

A light smear of rubber lubricating grease will make the hose go on easy and come off easy next time. Do not use a lot of the grease or it will contaminate the radiator.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

Well - I finally got it done. Thank you everyone for all of the help: learned a lot too! Car running good but still other problems to fix. In to the next one!

Also, when I took the car out of the garage I found the broken fan blade. I don’t recall hearing it break but one day just noticed a terrible vibration in the car. The fatigued portion appears pretty rusted.

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

You are fortunate that your fan didn't come thru the hood! While you have the water pump off, check the bearings. Shafts that turn out of true, tend to wear bearings and beat up seals.You have, by now, noticed that the 3/8 X 24 studs really get in the way and cause a lot of grief with the radiator. These 4 "studs"are available as screws. They look just like studs with nuts but the 'nut" is actually the head of the bolt. good Luck!
Terry

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I had an original fan on my A when i got it and although it's like new old stock quality it was terrified to drive around with it since i knew what a bomb they can be. I put the 6 blade on it and am glad i did. the two blade fans are great ornaments to hang up in the shop, but on a car? nope nope nope. that's the one thing i don't like that Henry put on there. it's not the number of blades that bothers me since i get they didn't have to idle in traffic like we do now but the steel construction, particularly the rivet design scare me. i have a 2 blade as well i took off a car i'm helping a friend to restore, and it has rust holes in it and should it be ever run again it's asking for a hole in the hood. scary stuff

Re: Engine fan replacement 1930 Model A
 

I got a one inch longer belt to make things easier.



so does it charge at twice the RPM?