Kong flatheads
 

Have access to buying a set of unused Kong flatheads, but owner has no specs on the heads and have not been able to find specs, such as compression ratio, head CC, etc...

Re: Kong flatheads
 

We'll need a little more information. Are these the original Kong heads or the reproductions now being made? If original, are they for single or dual plugs? Pictures of both sides of the heads would be helpful.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Look like these?
https://images49.fotki.com/v1674/pho...onHeads-vi.jpg

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Single plugs and the plug holes are in the center of the block, not high up as in your pic. I'm running a Tom Roberts (TR) blower setup with a pr of the new Stromberg (BIG) 97's, so ideally looking for CC's in the mid to upper 70's and the CR in the low 8's max. The block I have has a 4" crank, 3 5/16" bore, Isky 77B (mild) cam, beefed up main caps and the block is relived. My alternative is Navarro blower heads. The Kong's show no signs of wear, head bolt seats are pristine as well as the underside. My guess is newer production run, as no signs of aluminum oxidation.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Weird. Never heard of Kong heads until this morning while watching a FB vid by H&H, and then come here to see a thread on them. lol!

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/14o...ibextid=wwXIfr

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Another Kong part. I will finish machining and fit to engine this week.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Re: Kong flatheads
 

This?
https://www.flatattackracing.com/ima...nder-heads.jpg

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Yes, but unpolished. Looking at them 1st hand the water jackets seem bigger than either Edelbrocks or even Offenhausers. My theory, more water, cooler running. An extra 1/2 gallon of water running through the system, the better. Also in additional research, a comment was made of recommending domed pistons.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Unless you can show us the chambers - hard to comment on them. Just about ANY head can be made to work with a blower . . . it just takes some work on the transfer area, around the valves, etc.. You'll want a tight quench above the pistons, but the rest of the chamber can be opened up to drop the compression to what you're looking for.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

I agree with B&S above. We need pictures of the combustion side. I have seen these with deep chambers (probably for "pop-up" pistons), while others appear to be more "conventional". It would make a huge difference. The deep chambers could have been an anomaly, but who knows?

Re: Kong flatheads
 

You might checkout the Edelbrock 1116 heads - they have the larger chambers. They may be temporarily out of stock, so check with Jegs/Summit and see if you can get them to lock-down on a date. You may want to call Edelbrock directly.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

One thing I like about the Kong heads shown by the O/P is that they appears to have the spark plugs moved from over the exhaust valve (like Edmunds heads). This allows the use of extended tip plugs that I have found to be quite advantageous.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Ahhh, perseverance in research does produce results. Found a paperback handbook by Aussie Mike Davidson called "Flathead Fever" (1995). In it, he was running KONG heads on his salt flats '29 'T'. He lists 2 head types .525 (stock) w/76.2cc. and his modified one. The advantage of the heads was the ability to machine material away, even with a blower setup. His machining allowed .600 valve clearance increasing cc to 78.6 and with machining over the pistons for domed units brought it to 89.2cc.
Soooo, since I don't want to spend $5,000+ on modified heads, as Mike, on top of the stock head costs, I whittled it down to Edelbrock 1116 and .425 Offenhauser heads. Since the vast majority run the $910 Edelbrock heads, I opted to spend an extra $600 for the Offy .425 heads as on the cover of Joe Abbins "Flathead Ford V-8 Performance Handbook". Hey, if it's good for "Joe", it's good for my blown street fenderless '34 Ford Roadster w/ lakester exterior side exhaust pipes (grunting like Tim Allen). In the overall costs of my build (my one and only ground up build - my vision, my car), $600 is practically (gulp) insignificant. Besides, I told my only heir, he'll have to wait for his money.
Thanks all for your input.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Tubman, The original location is between the 2 valves at the furthest point away from the cylinder. So yes the plug tip may clear the 2 valves.The later head plug location is closer to over the piston. I read somewhere, the closer the plug is to being over the piston the less advance needed.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

I have one of Tom Robert's intakes - would love to see your overall blower setup. Did you machine a plate for the blower to mount on the intake, or are you running one of the Eaton style blowers with maybe a cast top? I'd like to see the belt setup as well - if you don't mind.

Are you running a 4-71 . . . or? Also, you might want to think about a bit more aggressive cam - as the blower will tame the cam anyway and you could use some more duration and lift (as least I know I would). You could run a L100 or a Potvin 3/8 or an Isky 1007B . . . all three would be good with your setup.

And as Ronnie noted, I'm a BIG FAN of a Potvin 3/8 grind . . . one of the best flathead cams for the street (blown or unblown) that there is!

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Check out the Tom Roberts website(TR Designs). The TR blower setup I have uses a Magnuson 112 blower (6-7 psi) on a TR designed manifold. Add to that a dual Stromberg to a quad adapter made by Vintage Speed, a pair of Stromberg BIG 97's (250 cfm each), and a set of Patriot Lakester exhaust pipes with the option of internal mufflers and turn down tips (no under car exhaust for my baby - out the side only). The tops of the bird mouth scoops rise above the body front cowl. It is currently sitting on a mockup block next to the family room tv. Total height of the setup from the bare block surface to the tops of the scoops is 23". I'll try to post a pic in the next few days. Luckily, I bought it just before covid saving myself a thousand or so.
As far as cams go, looking at the Isky Max-1 with a .364 lift. The 425 Offenhauser head + .080 thick copper head gasket (.050 compressed thickness) creates a safe .475 valve height clearance. My thinking is it allows the air flow for the exhaust to flow under and over the valve at the full height open position to get the air out from the full perimeter of the valve (just a theory).

Re: Kong flatheads
 

I run an Isky MAX-1 in an unblown 258" flathead with all of the usual "Hop-Up" parts. I find it a little too mild for my tastes. I'd listen to "B&S" in the post above yours about camshaft selection.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Interesting build and theory as it pertains to flow for the exhaust under and over the valve at full lift. When it comes to a blown flathead the exhaust flow is of little concern. Even with the valve being shrouded around the outer edges by almost two thirds of the diameter due to the shape of the chamber. The important detail is getting the mixture in and thus the flow of the intake valve and port is where the attention needs to be.
The cam choice {especially blown} is also important the Potvin 3/8 super is a much better choice compared to any Isky profile. With the Potvin setting the cam intake C/L per the cam specs is another big factor in having an engine that's going to pull hard and also sound bitchin especially with the lakester style exhaust.
Been doing blown flatheads for a lifetime so the above details work really well.
Ronnieroadster

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Thanks Ronnie . . . as usual, we're in violent agreement! Hope all is well with you and Laura!

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Hi Dale we are both doing well and both staying busy on the new Deuce 3 window project.
Its coming along nicely power will be a big block that's off brand. Size 426 with the spark plugs where I like them located in the center of the valve covers. ;)
Ron

Re: Kong flatheads
 

BORED & STROKED:Here are the pics, a TR Roberts Blower (6-7 psi) w/ a pr of Stromberg BIG 97's and Patriot lakester pipes on a mockup block next to the TV in the Family Rm. Mufflers can be installed inside the exhaust ends. There are also muffler tips that turn the exhaust down at a 45 degree.

For some reason I enjoy watching TV more.

That is the American Speed 33 fenderless Ford roadster (all steel) that I building except no hood or hood side panels and I'm using a '34 grille vs the '33 with the grill blacked out except for the trim ring. The carb bird scoops will be halfway above the front cowl.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...6&d=1741395448

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...7&d=1741396303

Re: Kong flatheads
 

From users: I read where a .400 lift (Isky 400jr) is a bit too lopy at stop and go traffic and a.364 lift (Isky Max-1) is a somewhat mild race cam. Just as Goldilocks found her porrige at the right temperature, a Schneider cam to the Potvin 3/8 specs (.375 lift) is almost right in between. An exact in-between would be a .382 lift

Re: Kong flatheads
 

TR Roberts did the whole setup with a Magnuson blower and a TR designed base. The belt setup can be seen on his webpage. I added the new BIG Strombergs (250 cfm each) on a Vintage Speed dual to a quad base setup. Since the interior size of the roadster is small, I'm planning on using a 12v room sized water vapor cooled air conditioner. Supposed to cool an 8'-10' room 10-12 degrees. The interior is only 1/4 of that. Will see if it works. If not, an EV AC system (4OA) will be looked at, with a much bigger alternator. I just don't want to see the compressor and hoses on and around the flathead motor. Want to maintain an "old school" bare bones look, yet with modern conveniences hidden. Even using both, a line lock (for starting from a traffic stop on an incline with no roll back), and a hydraulic e-brake with no visible hand brake in the interior. No visible interior switches either. On the dash just a speedo, water temp, voltage, oil pressure and fuel. Tach on the steering column and a 1940's Ford 2 spoke steering wheel. Radio hidden, speakers up under the dash, hidden too.
Now the cool part, replacing the solid bar radiator support rods and replacing them with 1/4" i.d. s.s. tubes with about 12 - 1/8" holes, 1" apart in each of the 2 tubes facing the blower and a 3/16" wide LED strip light inside each tube to illuminate the blower at night. The wires will extend into the firewall, all out of sight. Found that the 2 tubes are actually stiffer than the solid rods. Able to glue the original ends of the rod into the tube and drill a hole on the firewall end to feed 2 low voltage wires into the firewall. Used clear epoxy to seal the 1/8" diameter drilled holes in the tube for water tightness. Hard to tell where the light is coming from.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Read where H&H Flathead will be reproducing the KONG flatheads, since FlatAttack (my source for the Kong heads) went out of business in AU.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

Mike Davidson of Flatattack closed business due to health. He made his own FlatAttack heads did he actually make any Kong heads? H&H has Kong castings made already and probably machined by now.
Your picture surprised me as i thought you were building a period correct nostalgic engine. She got the billet bling.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

No but he had a set for sale.

Re: Kong flatheads
 

The only chrome on the block is the blower and that was a mistake by TR Roberts. It initially disappointed me to see it polished. But it didn't cost me anything extra and due to shipping costs back and forth he ate the polishing cost. Am pricing to have it blasted flat to a cast aluminum look.The BIG 97's (250 cfm each) came glossy black from Stromberg, but will be flat black when ready to mount matching the exhaust. May even blast the bird scoops.The face of the pulleys will be blasted flat. The TR Robert base plenum is a cast finish. Lots of tv light reflection on the aluminum. The block itself will be either a satin or flat red.
The front grille assembly will also be gloss black with a flat black grille with the satin s.s.trim ring standing out. No hood or side panels. But sigh, I did succumb to the all chrome front end. The winters rear quick change will also be cast aluminum.