First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Hello All, first time poster here. Earlier this summer my wife inherited he dads 1932 Model 18. This car had been sitting in a garage for more than 20 years. I have been trying to get it running, but it just doesn't have enough compression to run. A couple of cylinders are between 70 to 80 pounds, but the rest are below 60. It tries to run, but its just doesn't have enough strong cylinders to do so. I don't believe it has the original engine in it, but what I do know is that it is a 21 stud, 3 bolt timing cover, and it had a Stromberg 97 on it. I have replaced the carb with one from Speedway, rebuilt the fuel pump, and replaced the fuel pump push rod. All these fixes work well, so compression is the hold up here. So after typing all of this, We are looking for somebody to do some mechanical/electrical work. We are located in central Illinois, roughly 3 hours from both St Louis and Chicago. But the more local the better. If anyone knows of someone who might be of some help, that would be greatly appreciated. This car is quite special to my wife, but also its a pretty rare example of a Model 18. I will include some pics of it.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Beautiful car with a nice story. It deserves to be driven.



The engine will start and run with cylinders between 50 and 80 psi. And after running a while, the compression may improve, as the valves and rings reseat.



Have you confirmed that you have a good spark at every cylinder when cranking. Remove each spark plug wire and hold it near the block while cranking. It should jump half an inch with a white or blue spark. If weak and yellow, the ignition system will need some work. If you have a weak spark, try cranking it with a little starting fluid (ether) shot directly into the carb.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

I have the same car but it is a 4 cylinder. You can tell if your engine is original by looking at the drain plugs on the side of the block near the front, they should point straight down for a 1932 engine. I think it would start even with that low compression. Have you checked for a spark by holding the wire next to a plug? You might want to check out the Early Ford V8 Club in your area, https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm. By all means buy a copy of the restoration guidelines from the club, https://shop.efv8.org/collections/fo...tbound-all-new

Charlie Stephens

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Thanks for the reply. I have confirmed that there is spark on the font 2 cylinders, and the spark is strong there. I haven't done each cylinder separately though. Will have to try that. I have tried starting fluid, and brake clean, but it wouldn't event try on that. I have had the best luck using 2 stroke gas mix, but mostly all it will do is start, stumble a bit then die. After that, all It will do is hit on what I believe is the strongest of the cylinders. I will take a look to make sure all the plugs are getting spark, and if not, dig into the distributor.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Fabulous car! Owners of a car like that would be very welcome to join a Regional Group of the Eraly ford V8 Club of America. From your general location, likely the closest Regional Group would be Pekin Illinois, RG# 51. Contact: [email protected] 309-645-6031 Help is closeby!

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

I just went out to look, and yes the drain plugs on both sides,(in the block just behind where the lower radiator hose goes into the block) do point straight down. also, it does have the 18 x 1.5mm threaded spark plugs in as well. I will look into the possible spark issue some time tis week. Also thanks for the links, I have no experience in dealing with these old cars, and all the people around me that did, have now passed on, so any guidance is a big help.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

When we lived in Champaign County years ago the Early V8 folks in Pekin were a very active bunch. Worth checking into.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

[QUOTE=ford38v8;2334904]Fabulous car! Owners of a car like that would be very welcome to join a Regional Group of the Eraly ford V8 Club of America. From your general location, likely the closest Regional Group would be Pekin Ill.

Thank you. We are roughly 60mi from Pekin. I have showed the links that you sent to my wife, and we will be looking into them.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Welcome on board! You have a real cool 32 - glad that you're working to get it on the road!

Given the other work you've done, sure seems like an electrical issue to me. Put a timing light on each of the spark leads and see if they're firing.

Also, you may want to have the distributor gone through (highly recommended) - talk to Mike at ThirdGen automotive. Also, it isn't a bad idea to upgrade the advance mechanism while he is at it (he knows exactly what this means).

Best of luck!

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Welcome! What a beauty! You're at the right place for the best guidance. I had no prior experience working with cars and got mine running. If you have the desire to learn and try it, you'll get it running. Don't get discouraged if your first steps take longer to yield results. Old cars have usually a hidden history of repairs and workarounds. Be methodical in your approach and start with the basics. To get the car running you need spark, fuel, and air. So go with each component and seek to understand when things don't go as planned. This group will hold you hand. Remember, we like pictures!

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Thanks. I'm trying to figure this car out as I go along, but it has had a lot of years of others monkeying with it. It looks Like I should be looking into the spark next. I am toying with maybe putting a E-Fire on it for spark. But with all the suggestions I have gotten in the short time I have been on this site, I am sure I will get it running soon. And since you like pictures here are a few more of the car.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Thanks. The Barn likes pictures. The car is right-hand drive. Was it imported from a Commonwealth country or from South America. Ford opened in 1916 its second factory in Argentina and all cars came out left-hand.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

If you’re looking for some assistance, you might want to contact Larry Shepard in St. Louis. He does lots of old Ford repair work and is very familiar with all manner of flathead challenges. He’s on Fordbarn as Larrys40.

Good luck with your ‘32. I’m partial to them, as I have a ‘32 Victoria

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

A start and a stumble is great progress! Do check that all cylinders are getting a spark, but also suspect that the reason it does not keep running is that the carburetor needs service. After cranking a bit, peek down into the throat of the carburetor; have someone pump the throttle to the floor a few times. Each time you should see the accelerator pump squirt a nice little stream of gas in to each barrel of the carb. If no, we will advise on how to work backwards from there to find out why the carb is not getting fuel. If yes, the situation is more complicated. Could still be ignition; could be carb main jet path gummed up.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Best guess is that it's from Argentina or Uruguay (or Paraguay) and therefore basically of U.S. manufacture. The cylinder heads look like locally made (Industria Argentina) replacements. The original '32 heads had the larger 7/8" openings for the spark plugs.

Judging from the dome lamp location, it was originally a deluxe Fordor and not a standard Fordor with cowl lamps (standard equipment on all '32s originally sold in Argentina).

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

I couldn't read the heads marking. Most likely assembled in Argentina. It was the hub back then for Latin America. You might be able to find the first owner if you contact the Argentine Ford V8 club.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Yes this car was built in Argentina. Says "Indrustria Argentina" on several places on the car. The heads are the easiest to spot, but the key, air cleaner, and gas cap all say the same. My Father in law bought it at a car auction in Rochelle Ill in 1985, but he never did find out when, or how it found its way to the states. Mother in law said before she passed that they were lead to believe that this was the only one like it here in the states. Don't know if that is true or not, but I know that I have never seen a right hand drive one before this one.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

[QUOTE=drolston;2334952]A start and a stumble is great progress! Do check that all cylinders are getting a spark, but also suspect that the reason it does not keep running is that the carburetor needs service. After cranking a bit, peek down into the throat of the carburetor; have someone pump the throttle to the floor a few times. Each time you should see the accelerator pump squirt a nice little stream of gas in to each barrel of the carb. If no, we will advise on how to work backwards from there to find out why the carb is not getting fuel. If yes, the situation is more complicated. Could still be ignition; could be carb main jet path gummed up.[/QUOT

I was blaming the carb at first, so that's why I replaced it with the Stromberg knockoff from Speedway. I also rebuilt the fuel pump with a NapCo kit from 3rd Gen. The gas tank is, in my opinion, beyond repair, so I have been running a hose from the pump to a gas can. It pumps good and the squirters in the carb are working. I have also tried to bottle feed it, also with no luck. It seems to light off quickly but then stumble and Die. The ignition switch was bad when I first tried to start it, so it is wired through a toggle switch, and has a new ballast resistor as well. With a 6 volt battery I have seen a consistent 6.3v at the coil every time I have checked it.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Thanks for the contact onfo. If this was a small block Chevy, I would already be burning rubber. I can hold my own with the 60's to more modern stuff, but I am pretty green with the older stuff, especially the early fords.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

I second the recommendation to send the distributor off to have Micheal at Third Gen ford parts to rebuild it. Also have Skip Haney rebuild your coil. I would not change over to the efire system. I did both of these on my 37 21 stud engine that had a couple of lower compression cylinders like yours and with these two items addressed, it runs surprisingly well. I also replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires as well as distributor caps

https://thirdgenauto.com/?gclid=CjwK...xoCNikQAvD_BwE

https://skipscoilsandpumps.com/contact-us

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

That is just battery voltage, which is what you see if engine happened to stop with points open. Not likely you would see that on every test, points are open only open 20% of the time. More likely points are corroded and preventing current flow. With the resistor in the circuit, when points are closed and current flowing, reading at the coil should be 3-3.5 volt. (The resistor drops voltage about 3 volts.)

I agree with others, send distributor to Third Generation. I would not try to work on one of these distributors myself. No timing marks on the engine to set the timing. Ford designed these distributors to be easily removed, work done on the bench, timing set on a machine, then bolted back on the engine. With new points and timing set by a pro on the machine, your distributor will be good to go for years.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Nice car, lucky fella. Obviously, we need a spark to light the fire. once you get that sorted out, I believe you probably have some stuck valves affecting the low compression. If grandpa was running it occasionally with old gas the gunk will stick on the intake valve stems. A real cylinder leakage test would be Ideal, but a poor man can weld an air fitting on an old gutted out spark plug base, put the cyl at TDC and blow some (low) air in and see whats leaking. Air at the carb =intake valve, air at the exhaust pipe is exhaust valve. A real peasant would just spin the motor over ( all plugs removed) with his thumb over the plug holes. Any good cylinder will blow your thumb off with a bang, and the weak ones will "fluff". Next, the poor man will look in the holes while your helper spins the motor and see if you can see any valves that don't move as much as they should. Hard to see, and if sticking open they can be brought back to life with shots of oil and tapping down with an allen wrench.

Also, not mentioned yet is always when trying to bring life back to an old motor a few squirts of oil in each cylinder will bring up compression, perhaps enough to get it running, and if luck is with you it may improve after some miles.

good luck, happy motoring

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

I'll come right out and say ir. Both the "E-Fire" distributor and especially the Speedway carburetor are products of questionable quality and will only cause you more problems along the way. You will be better served by having the original distributor and carburetor gone through by reputable technicians here on "The Barn". Michael at "Third Gen Automotive" as mentioned for the distributor, and "Uncle Max" (Max Musgrave) for Stromberg carburetors are the best.

You can fool around with the aftermarket crap later if you want to, but nobody really needs that kind of complication in their life.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Alphonse Gabriel Capone, sometimes known by the nickname "Scarface" is one
of only a few that could have afforded to import that rare '32 in those days.

Did he happen to carve his initials inside someplace ? :D:D




.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Gotta agree with tubman, sadly the original carb could have been sent to uncle max for a rebuild for similar money as the new speedway junk. and... no comment on the fancy "new" ignition stuff

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

From the pictures looks like the cables are old and have been tampered, which could be giving you erratic current. I might be worth checking and replacing your battery cables. At least that was one of the issues I has when I was trying to fire up my +30 years dormant car.

One of the many things I learned here is the importance of having good grounds with a solid path to ground and the correct cables gages. If the cables are old, most likely they’re corroded inside and you can see it. Ground straps usually have their tinning look dull and you can see the copper underneath.

Ground path: battery to firewall, firewall, to engine. Then add a ground from the starter support bolt to a transmission bolt. Ensure all metal surfaces are shinny clean with no corrosion, including bolts.

One thing you can do if you haven’t done it already is disconnecting the fuel pump from the carburetor. Then, fill up the carburetor bowl with gas. It will give you about 20-30 seconds to run. Make sure you use the choke, which you will have to find out the right balance to get the car fired up. Use starting fluid. Once the car runs a couple of times, then you can fill in the bowl and connect it to the gas pump. I had to do this prime the carb despite having a functioning pump.

Good luck!

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

One thing to mention since you are new to flatheads and may work on the distributor is the offset cam on the rear of the distributor. The distributor has a cam in back the fits into a groove on the camshaft. The cam is offset and can easily be placed 180 degrees out of time. Make sure all lines up before you try to start the motor. If not placed correctly a lot of damage can be done to the distributor.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Just so you don't get confused by the prior post -- it is an offset "tang" that fits into a slot on the front of the camshaft. The tang is offset - so make sure you're not 180 degrees off and try to force the bolts in. Many a newbie has done this and cracked the distributor housing.

Not trying to step on TJ's shoes - he is mentioning a very important aspect of our 32 - 48 Ford Flatheads!

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

[QUOTE=dsglass95;2334979]
I can not argue wit those recommending a distributor rebuild, but I will note that I bought three 97 carbs from Speedway. The float was way off on all three, and one had a casting flaw that completely blocked fuel flow to the primary jets. That flaw would let the engine start and then die. Can you borrow a known good carb?

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

The Stromberg that was on the car was/is in really poor shape, the throttle shaft was the loosest that I have ever seen. I priced the parts that would of taken to rebuild it,( I have rebuilt 100's of carburetors over the years), and it just wasn't worth it. So I looked for quite some time for a good used one and I was thinking about buying a new one. I got the Speedway carb on sale for less than half what a new Stromberg would be, so I went ahead and bought it. It obviously didn't fix my starting problem, but once I get it running, I will deal with the carb again if I have to.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

[QUOTE=drolston;2335121]If there is any one left around me that might have one, I have no idea who it would be. So far, I haven't even been able to keep this car running even while bottle feeding it. The result is so far always been the same. Start briefly stumble and die. It wont even try to run on brake clean or starting fluid, not the last time I tried it anyway.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

I haven't looked to see if the motor is grounded to the body or not. But the motor is grounded directly to the battery, it was this way when we unburied it. As far as filling the float bowl goes, someone in the past had drilled a hole in the top of the carb that was on the motor, then capped it off with a grease zerk. I filled the old carb bowl dozen's of times and never was able to get it started.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

No, but the car was painted Midnight Purple when my in-laws bought it. My mother in-law said that they were told by the seller at the auction that it was a "Lady of the evenings" car. Wife wants to paint it Midnight Purple again too. Lol

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Somewhat off topic, but your engine compartment photos bring back memories of the many cars that I brought back from Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay in the early 70s and early 90s when on assignment there with Ford, namely the work of many like-minded Rube Goldbergs.

Your car is a rarity, however, if those fenders on it are the ones that were on it when it left Argentina. Not a lot of lane discipline down there, at least in the past, so fenders got bent, repaired, bent, and repaired to the point where there was no life left in the metallurgy. Of 30 or cars that I exported, only 3 did not have to have all four fenders replaced. But the climates of southern Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay are car friendly and new cars were so expensive that there was a lot of incentive to keep the old cars in regular use right up into the 1980s.

All of the Fords that I retrieved were open cars for the simple reason that all of the good '32-'34 closed cars that I found were rendered not worth the effort by virtue of the local (and in my opinion, bad) habit of welding in the roof opening. Your car appears to have escaped that fate.

Fordor sedans are my second-most favorite '32 closed body types. I really like their proportions, styling wise.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Being a new guy, Ill say folks here are trying to help. Your choice of a speedway carb would have probably been changed if you had asked first. Speedway sells some useful parts, some good, some not so good. Carbs are not on the good list. Uncle Max only works on stromberg carbs, re bushes the throttle plates, new real stromberg parts thruout,
re does the finish on the whole carb, all new screws, all linkage replated, and its tested and adjusted on his flow bench before its shipped out. When you get it, you bolt it on and it runs perfect.

I too have rebuilt all kinds of carbs thru my life, but this is done right. Last one was about 225 if I remember, and they look like new.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

I'm gonna add one more comment, as a general rule, Henry built a good car, thats why many have survived, and generally command a higher price than a similar brand X.
So keeping it as much real ford parts as one can in todays world will probably give you more joy and happy motoring. New, is not necessarily better.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Hello all. I am back with a update on some of the suggestions that were given to me. I had time this morning to check for spark at the plugs. Found the plugs #4,8 and 5 were not firing. #4 and 8 were just the end of the wire at the plug needed cleaning, but #5 was corroded in the cap to the point that it broke while trying to get it apart to clean. So When I reach out to Third Gen on getting the distributor rebuilt, I will put new caps, wires and plugs on it at the same time. That brings me to the coil. This coil isn't stock, but the primary ohms at zero, while the secondary is at 3.4 ohms. I have never checked a 6 volt coil before, but since this car used a ballast resistor, I am believing that no resistance at the primary side of the coil is good. If I am making the wrong call on this, please let me know. Here are a few pics of the coil. Thanks.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

You want some resistance on the primary windings, say 6 or 8 ohms. On the secondary, you want to see 15,000 to 20,000 ohms, maybe even higher. You may be reading the wrong scale on the ohmmeter. Since resistance can vary so much, most meters have variable scales. There is usually a knob or something to switch between them. Testing the primary while set to a high scale can make it appear that there is zero. There has to be some primary (and secondary) resistance, since you are getting spark.

Since that is an aftermarket coil, there's no telling how old it is. Most original Ford coils have long since given up the ghost due to age. They can be renewed.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Thanks for the info. It appears the this coil is bad then. My older meter shows 0 at any setting above 200, and my Fluke with auto range shows .7. I was able to get a Ford part number (18-12024) by finding the part number on the condenser,(68-12300), So I will be reaching out to Skip Haney to see if he can fix this one or not. Thank you to Blindhuckster for the links as well.

Re: First time poster... with a couple of questions.
 

Skip can rework/rebuild the coil and he will most likely advise you to get a new condenser. I'm not sure who is "building" condensers these days for these Diver's Helmet distributors. The old (even NOS) condensers tend to be dried out and worthless - so having a good condenser is a must. I use high-quality magneto condensers on my crab style distributor rebuilds (Harman Collins dual-coils) - they are expensive, but tend to be about the only ones I can find that last (at least in my world!).

I know that guys have retro-fitted non-original condensers to fit into these coils - you may ask Skip what he recommends and can he supply you with a tested setup. If it was mine, I'd modify a magneto condenser to fit (some fabricating, soldering, etc).