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Losing power when warmed up I have a 1929 CCPU Model A and it runs fine when cold, and even when its warmed up before stopping. However, when it is warmed up and I come to a stop or turn off the engine and start it back up, it loses all power (almost feels like it is running out of gas ... no backfiring though). I talked with another member in the local Model A club, and they said they had similar issues and it was the coil (when stopped the heat of the engine compartment would heat up the coil and cause issues). So, I swapped out the coil with the one from my 1930 coupe but it didn't resolve the issue. Has anyone else experienced similar problems with their A's losing power when warmed up after coming to a stop? Any insights would be greatly appreciate.
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Re: Losing power when warmed up I've been there before typically it's a condenser secondly it can be a coil I would try another condenser
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Re: Losing power when warmed up go to napa and get one no wait on shipping and freight
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Re: Losing power when warmed up Stalling at a stop could be the carburetor flooding due to the fuel level to high in the bowl. If the carburetor is flooding, shut of the fuel just before you come to a stop. If you shut off a idling engine and it refuses to start do the same. Try starting with the fuel shut off after it gets started turn the fuel on. If it still stalls out go as stated above
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Re: Losing power when warmed up rugreen,
If I understand you correctly, you're saying that after the car reaches normal operating temperature after driving for a while and then dies when you come to a stop, the car will restart but will not continue to run acceptably? What exactly do you mean by losing power? |
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Re: Losing power when warmed up Fisher auto parts or Napa either one usually has condensors on the shelf. As was said above, no wait or shipping costs. I would get an extra and keep in each car.
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Re: Losing power when warmed up What gear are you in when you are going 10mph ?
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Re: Losing power when warmed up Check point gap.
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Re: Losing power when warmed up What carburetor are you using? Has it always had this issue? Did it ever run right before without having this problem?
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Re: Losing power when warmed up Does it start easily when you first crank it up to go for a drive?
Does it run good, pull hills, etc. until you have to stop or slow down for traffic? As eagle said...check the point gap for sure and while you're at it, check the timing and maybe have your mechanic friend check the timing gear to see if it might have jumped time. It's possible that the coil might be faulty, so replace it with a known good one. Condensers are a common failure item - cheap and easy to replace. Buy a good one like one of the "no burnout types" from Bratton's, Snyder's, etc. |
Re: Losing power when warmed up Hey,
What about fuel evaporating in the fuel line?? Is that a thing with the Model A's?? I seem to recall some talk about that a while ago.. It would make sense to me if you are pushing it hard on the mountain roads and the fuel sitting in the fuel line close to the exhaust.. If you stop or just idle, the fuel will sit in that hot spot a lot longer than open throttle.. Just a thought.. |
Re: Losing power when warmed up Yes, we call it "vapor lock" and it can be a problem if the fuel line is situated too close to the exhaust manifold. It happens a lot down here in Texas, especially in our HOT summers It could certainly be contributing to his problem.
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Re: Losing power when warmed up Since you have the 30 Coupe that is running well and if a new condenser doesn't help try using the carburetor and distributor on the pickup. One at a time.
Another thing comes to mind is it possible you have an issue in the muffler that is causing back pressure when it heats up? |
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Re: Losing power when warmed up If everything else checks out might check for insufficient valve lash (if equipped with adjustable lifters). Interesting problem, please share the fix.
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Re: Losing power when warmed up When the truck starts losing power, try opening up the gav 1/4 turn, maybe even 1/2 turn.
Have you tried cleaning the carburetor? Checking the jets? |
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Re: Losing power when warmed up I recently worked through a problem where a car lost power above 30 mph. It was not heat dependent, but you might check your spark plugs and their gaskets for a leak when the engine gets hot. They should be torqued to 25 foot pounds.
One of the plugs was leaking. It had a light oil streak around it. No backfire on it either. Unusual spark issues are sometimes created by faulty ground connections, bad cables and wires with broken strands internally or at their ends where connected to ring terminals. Voltage drop testing will identify faults. Voltage drop testing of the Model A electrical system is described in Les Andrew second blue book "Diagnosis and TroubleShooting". Too large of a voltage drop can weaken the spark at the plugs. I suggest starting at the battery. Charge it. Clean the + cable to the frame to bare metal and tighten, then the clamps at both battery posts. Then the connection at the starter switch. If you have a safety fuse, clean it and its clips. Move up to the terminal box and the coil posts. Make sure all connections are tight. Good luck. Please report back what is found. |
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Re: Losing power when warmed up Update: I have followed a lot of the recommendations in response to my initial post and from friends in the local Model A club:
1. Changed the coil: A friend in the local Model A club mentioned that he had a similar problem and when the engine compartment heated up the coil internal expanded and caused a break in one of the internal coils. This didn't fix my problem, but when I took the old coil off, it started leaking. So, replacing it was a good thing. 2. Set the timing and points gap: Multiple people recommended setting the timing and the points gap. I did these, but they did not fix my loss of power issue. These were easy to do, so a good step in trying to fix my problem. 3. Rebuild the carb: I had a Zenith carb on the truck and pulled it off and replaced it will a Tillotson that I had rebuilt. This fixed my problem to some extent, but not completely. I rebuilt the Zenith and put it back on. However, when I reinstalled the Zenith carb, I also installed a phenolic spacer between the carb and the intake manifold. This spacer reduces the heat transfer from the intake manifold to the carb. These prevented the loss of power issue, but I started having severe overheating issues on hot days. 4. Had my radiator re-cored: To fix the overheating issue, I had my radiator re-cored. This fixed the issue. Although the flow tubes in the old core weren't in terrible shape, there was some blockage the restricted the flow to some extent - even after back-flushing the radiator. So, the loss of power issue was really an overheating issue. The truck never fully overheated (coolant boiling) because when the engine got hot, it cause the gas in the carb to boil first. This resulted in the engine losing power because it wasn't getting gas. When I switched out the Zenith for a Tillotson, the Tillotson was better at dissipating the heat from the engine and prevented the gas from boiling to some extent (the Tillotson is made from pot metal and the Zenith is cast iron). When I put in the phenolic spacer between the intake manifold and the carb, it prevented the gas in the carb from boiling and allowed the engine to continue to run (no loss of power). However, this allowed the engine to continue to heat up and the coolant would boil - severe overheating. Having the radiator re-cored (and back flushing the cooling channels on the engine) has now fixed the overheating issue. I also removed the license plate from in front of the radiator to the bumper and use a mix of Watterwetter and Sierra antifreeze as coolant. Watterwetter provides a better heat transfer from the engine to the coolant and the antifreeze has a higher boiling temperature than straight water. |
Re: Losing power when warmed up Great detective work, and understanding what was going on helps all of us when you thoroughly explain each cause and effect.
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Re: Losing power when warmed up A recent similar problem at our local club was: a single spark plug that was not torqued when installed. 25 foot lbs with a torque wrench and the problem was gone.
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