ignition lock
 

i have a problem with my ignition lock , when i remove the keys, it stay on .
does anyone knows this problem?

Re: ignition lock
 

Bum switch

Re: ignition lock
 

it was works good before that i remove the starter
what can i do?
do you think i'll must to change the whole parts?

Re: ignition lock
 

Something wired incorrectly, a short and/or bad IGN SW.

Re: ignition lock
 

Probably the easiest way to find out if the switch is bad internally, is to get your multi-meter, or just an ohmmeter. Disconnect the car battery (+) terminal post first. Then (with the key in the off position), touch the first probe to the battery terminal at the back of the ignition switch and the second probe to the coil terminal of the ignition switch. The needle on the ohmmeter should read maximum resistance. If the needle jumps to zero (which means no resistance), then most likely, the switch contacts are stuck. It could also mean that the switch is okay, but somewhere down the line, the ignition coil wire is shorted to the battery wire due to fault insulation on the two wires.

Re: ignition lock
 

Read This - -Ignition Switch Wiring - 1955, 1956, 1957-

Possibly why the stater drive was ruined.

Re: ignition lock
 

today after to have put back my starter on the car, she start up well
but now i have a problem
when the engine runs i can't stop with key
even if i remove the key the engine don't stop

Re: ignition lock
 

Sight unseen, my first guess is the ignition key switch is worn out.

Re: ignition lock
 

ok thanks for the answer
do you think i must to change just the ignition lock cylinder?
how to remove it?

Re: ignition lock
 

nobody?

Re: ignition lock
 

I found the below while Carousing With My Browser on the -POWERMASTER SITE--

Re: ignition lock
 

Here is a YOU TUBE Video of a later MUSTANG IGN SW R&R. Both cars are similar (open to discussion-debate).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv4vHMowVbY

Remove NEG BAT CABLE first!

Re: ignition lock
 

with my new starter drive i've no more problem to start
now the problem it's the ignition lock cylinder i think ....

Re: ignition lock
 

Here is an excerpt from the referring URL I posted-

Take the time to read the article to ensure the switch is wired properly. If going to a new switch, try to find GENUINE FORD NOS -

IGN SW- B5A 11572-A (1952-1959 FORD-BIRD)

IGN SW Cylinder- B9A 11582-A

Re: ignition lock
 

I haven't tried removing a key cylinder from the switch housing recently enough to be very helpful.
There's usually a small spring loaded pin that releases the key cylinder.

Disconnect a battery cable first. The switch assembly comes out of the dash by unscrewing the chrome bezel.
Note the small letters on the switch housing for each wire connection terminal. Use some masking tape to label the wires with that same letter before you remove them.

The electrical part of the switch itself may be worn out internally, or the lock cylinder may be too worn to turn the switch correctly.
A new switch may come without a key cylinder. You might be able to re-use yours, or if it has excessive wear it may be part of the *won't shut off* problem.

Using NOS / Made in USA parts is worth the trouble to find them. The places that supply restoration parts for '55/'57 Thunderbird's sell the replacement ignition switch for just under $40 and the key cylinder for $10.

A locksmith shop should be able to re-fit the tumblers of a new key cylinder to use your existing key.
Given the number of years since new, it is also possible the key itself (and other key cylinders on the car) are also quite worn out.

Here's a link to another recent Ignition Switch question that may(?) be helpful...
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236176

.

Re: ignition lock
 

look my wiring i think it's correct

Re: ignition lock
 

Without being able to hold the switch myself I can't be 100%, but yes the wiring looks correct.

Here is a wiring diagram to compare...

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/t...re5765-195.jpg

Re: ignition lock
 

there's a few differences, not the same to 100% with my wiring..

Re: ignition lock
 

You know something?

The starter relay maybe bad also... :confused:

Re: ignition lock
 

it's brand new

Re: ignition lock
 

Again, please read the REFERRING URL I posted. It (article) describes the possible misprint within the factory released diagram.

Below are two crops of the diagram to hopefully help you.

Now what you are saying is that when you turn the IGN off, the engine stays running? The STARTER does not hang, correct?

Re: ignition lock
 

It can still be defective even if NOS, aftermarket or repro.

Re: ignition lock
 

Even though it's new,that doesn't necessarily mean that it's not defective.Most of the replacement electrical parts for sale today are very poor quality and are often bad right out of the box.The problem you're having is almost certainly a defective starter relay.

Re: ignition lock
 

56 yblock, now I'm confused...
What is continuing to run with the ignition key switch turned off?

The engine? or the starter?

Re: ignition lock
 

I would remove all the wires from the ign. terminal on the switch and check for the terminal on the switch to be hot with the key in the "off" position. If the terminal is hot, you have a switch problem. If not, you are getting back feed from somewhere that is powering your ignition. If there are other wires on the same terminal, check to see if any of those are hot with the ignition off.

Re: ignition lock
 

dmsfrr the engine

Re: ignition lock
 

ok guys thanks for the answers
i'll change the complete ignition switch
if it's not ok i'll change the starter relay too

Re: ignition lock
 

Changing parts looking for a problem isn't cost effective if you have a way to diagnose where the problem is. If you have a backfeed because of a wiring mistake, changing parts won't fix it. Take all wires off the ignition terminal and see if it has voltage on it.

Then check the two small terminals on the starter relay for voltage with the key off.

Get back with the results and we can go from there.

Re: ignition lock
 

i agree
i have this car since about one year ago, i've run a lot with her
she always worked good, i dont think she have wiring problem
but she has original parts, and the old owner didn't take care the car
and now i have all to check

Re: ignition lock
 

Diagram #1. Starter solenoid wiring...
but there are a few exceptions based on where the battery, starter solenoid and starter are mounted in relation to each other.

When I first looked under the hood of a '55/'57 T-Bird I noticed the 'Battery' and 'Starter' cables are connected to the opposite terminals. (diagram #2)
Some other vehicles may be connected this way also. It makes no difference in the operation of the solenoid. The 'S' and 'I' wires however, must be connected correctly.

Connecting battery or ignition switch power to the 'S' terminal should energize the solenoid with a quick solid click, and it should release the same way. When energized the solenoid should supply 12 volts on the Starter and Ignition terminals. When not energized the solenoid will only have power on the 'Battery' terminal.

just FYI: Original 6 volt positive ground '55 Fords use a different style starter solenoid with only 3 terminals. (image #3)
.

Re: ignition lock
 

... :confused: ... scratch...scratch...scratch...

:eek:

MY NEWLY LEARNED FACTOID OF THE DAY!

I never realized that. The BAT on a FORD is on the PASS side and the BIRD BAT is on the driver's side so the BAT/STARTER CABLES can be used on either terminal.... :D

What you are showing is an aftermarket, correct?

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...1&d=1515443857

The FORD PN for a 6V Solenoid is B5A 11450-A and a 12V Solenoid is B6A 11450-A if looking for NOS.

THANX FOR THE TUTORIAL!

Re: ignition lock
 

DING DING DING! That is right, you win! :D

But I must have had my wife's glasses on while typing...
The oem 6v Fords were Positive ground, not negative ground.

(6 volt starter solenoid)
Not sure, I haven't seen enough of them.

.

Re: ignition lock
 

Below is a photo of a Service Replacement-

Re: ignition lock
 

ok guys,i'll take a pic of my starter relay wiring later
and i'll post here

Re: ignition lock
 

If the starter is operating correctly the wiring on the starter relay / solenoid is Ok. If the 'S' and 'I' wires are reversed on their terminals the solenoid & starter may try to engage with the ignition key switch in the 'Run' position, but not in the 'Start' position.
The wire on the 'S' terminal is usually Red with a blue stripe. The wire on the 'I' terminal will be dark Brown, or maybe black.
.

Re: ignition lock
 

dmsfrr
when i connect the battery, the lights oil/gen are already 'on' it's the first problem
the second problem it's when the engine run i turn the key on position 'off' it don't stop
i think my ignition cylinder is dead !!

Re: ignition lock
 

Why don't you just remove the ignition wire from the switch and reconnect the battery? If the oil/gen light come on it isn't the switch causing your problem. .

Re: ignition lock
 

i'll try with the new parts ( switch relay and complete ignition switch )
with the same wiring.
it was good before to change my starter drive

Re: ignition lock
 

I agree it's most likely the ignition switch. After the other wires are labeled and removed from the switch and only the yellow Battery wire temporarily connected... you can hook a test light one at a time to each terminal to confirm that they either do or don't operate correctly... Accessory, Run/ignition and Start.

Re: ignition lock
 

here's my starter relay wiring...