Air filter question
 

The fellow that rebuilt my distributor talked me into going with this longer air filter. I purchased the adapter(longer rod) and the filter from Snyder's. When I picked the car up he showed me how close the new filter was to the exhaust pipe. He said I should probably buy an adapter to change the position of the filter. I called Snyder's this morning and asked if anyone was having trouble with this set up and if they had a part to change the position of the filter. He told me the only calls they have received was about the wing nut vibrating loose and coming off. He suggested I remove the unit and put some blue Locktite on the wing nut. Anyway, when I got the filter unit off I noticed that a portion of the plastic band on the bottom of the filter was melted and about an inch or so of the filter paper behind the screen was brown. Not good. I probably have put on about 40 miles on the car since this was installed. Does anyone know of any way to reposition the filter? This set up now scares the h*ll out of me. Any suggestions? Should I get rid of this and start over? Thanks, Smitty

Re: Air filter question
 

It looks to me as though your exhaust pipe is forward too far. Your manifold may be drooping a little.

Re: Air filter question
 

I agree with wmws "It looks to me as though your exhaust pipe is forward too far. Your manifold may be drooping a little"


Here is a photo of my air maze with a K&N air filter and an Aires muffler.


http://fordbarn.com/forum/picture.ph...ictureid=36076

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I know its no help and you might call me stupid lol but none of our Model A's run with a air breather on. I just LOVE the way them Model A's sound with no air breather on them.

Keep On Truckin'!

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I agree with all previous posters. Exhaust pipe is wrongly bent as a minimum. Might be a drop at the last exhaust port also. I have removed all air breathers/cleaners from all my Model A's. Makes final "tuning" of carb easier, makes it easier to identify carb or intake manifold leaks, and I like the look. FWIW I don't have gravel roads or a gravel driveway.

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Get the paper out. It will get wet with gas, and one little backfire will cause you some excitement.

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Smit
As the others mentioned Ck the pipe angle....
Get rid of the paper filter it can get fuel saturated and restricted.. Consider using no filter..

What do you use on your other 6 model A's???

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Thanks everyone! Snyder's catalog does show a "High Volume Air Maze". It has a 180 degree bend in the mounting pipe which places the air cleaner below the carb and not up against the exhaust. I'm thinking of ordering one ($36.95) Monday morning. That should cure my problem without any mods to manifold or exhaust pipe and just about eliminate the fire hazard- Plus the fact I already have an extra filter. Thanks again, Smitty

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I agree with the "no filter" responses.....my car runs so much better without it, and as Bud said it sounds better and looks better too.....

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REBUILDERS love folks that run with NO AIR FILTER----------
Bill W.

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Cmon Dad do u have one over your nose:confused:

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Mitch,
Don't make it any worse than it is(LOL), I only have 5 other Model A's. The only one that doesn't have an air filter of some sort is the 29 Roadster. I might try running with no air filter for awhile, but I still might order the curved one from Snyder's just in case I want one.

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I run a re-pop Air-Maze air filter/flame arrester like you do smittykid. Except instead of a paper filter I use the re-pop wire mesh filter that it
originally came with. I coat the wire mesh with K & N air filter element spray like you can get at motorcycle shops. Maybe not as good
as the paper element. But definitely not as messy as dipping the wire mesh into a pan of motor oil like was originally instructed.;)

"Any filter is better than No filter!" Bob-A:D

PS: I clean the element in hot soapy water and blow it dry with
compressed air.

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Smitty,

Per #1 above:

"Any suggestions? Should I get rid of this and start over?"

1. In my humble opinion, A Model A carburetor air filter can extend engine life and save both time and money with engine rebuilding if one drives one's Model A quite often ........ yes? or no? ......... just try a brainy idea like advising everyone in your neighborhood to throw away their modern car air filters on their $35,000.00 cars and monitor their responses ... neighbors are usually smarter than one can imagine.

2. The "Hi-Boy" Model A air filter works great. It is up high out of road dust, far away from heated exhaust, & just think, our normal wet flammable gas dripping from our Model A carburetors cannot drip uphill to wet this high filter & cause a very exciting engine compartment fire.

3. The K & N Air Filter Website has interesting written "technical" information. The "larger" Model #R-1050 K & N air filter I used has far more "free" air flow than that required for a Model A engines.

3. With the above K & N Hi-Boy set up, I average 20 MPG in stop & go traffic with my 1930 Town Sedan .... plugs never get black ..... under "Search" many others have reported similar results with such an arrangement ..... like with "anything" else in life, buying cheap crap will always prove for one to waste more money in the long run.

Hope this helps.

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I like the "Hi-Boy" set up. I'm running a Wolf Whistle and I'm wondering if the "Hi-Boy" is off set enough to clear the wire that operates the whistle. I love my whistle and would hate to lose it. Thanks

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It's the "HAIR MESH" inside, that duz the job:D Should I oil them with K&N filter oil:confused: It smellz pretty GOOD:D
When I bought Minerva, I put an ITTY-BITTY paper filter on her, it FELL off, now resides on the wall, with her 2 Blade Fan & a BIG "S" shaped Railroad Wrench & other DUMB things!
SA Dad

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I am with Smitty and H. L.

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I use an air filter on only my cars with whitewalls and in which I put non-detergent oil, use antifreeze in the radiator... oh, and also for which I buy parts from Mac's.

:p

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Darn Bill you beat me to it! :) "It's the "HAIR MESH" inside, that duz the job:D Should I oil them with K&N filter oil:confused: It smellz pretty GOOD"
And you said it better.

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Dang I trim mine:mad:

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Ever notice every now & then how many Model A owners have engines that never leak oil, carburetors that never leak gas, cooling systems that never leak coolant, tires that never leak air, points that never need adjusting, brakes that always work perfectly without adjustment, speedometers that register within 1/100 mph, head lights that make modern car owners dim their lights, white wall tires that make young women climb on Model A fenders and running boards, piston rings that never leak, and wives and girlfriends that never complain ......... what are we doing to continue to miss the point here ......

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Here's my final solution- I bought the air cleaner set up from Snyder's that has the 180 degree curve that puts the filter under the carb. After reading the posts about paper air cleaner filaments I decided to do a little modification. I took the paper filter off the new one, removed the 1/4 20 threaded rod and replaced it with a shorter threaded rod. I now have the shorter wire mesh air cleaner mounted to the 180 degree curved piece. No more paper and not up against the exhaust pipe. What type of oil, if any should I treat the wire mesh filament with? Thanks

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Some people use Pam, but there is a variety of proper spray oils for filters.

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"Maybe" LONG is better? I saw a man whose NOSE hairs were SO long, that they formed an INTEGRAL part of his MUSTACHE!!! And his ears looked like a SPIDERS' nest.
Bill Neat

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Thanks, I just ordered the kit.:)

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I run the K & N filter, and notice no performance difference.

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I have never seen a CFM flow rating for the paper filters. My observation has been they tend to restrict the air flow and the engine runs rich.

If you put an air filter on a vehicle that is not rated at the CFM per minute of air flow that the engine requires to run at performance RPM you will have an engine that runs rich and fouls plugs.

I ran my own calculations 12 years ago using the formulas at the K&N see link below, and 200.5 cubic engine running at 2100 rpm and selected a K&N E-3050. To date I have over 30,000 miles using a K&N E-3050 and have never had any fouling of my spark plugs.

http://www.knfilters.com/filter_fact...82&rw=2#SELECT

Here is a link to the same calculation on Model -A.org. The calculation on the below web site are at an engine running 2800 rpm, and the conclusion is you can use any one of three filters, they conclude any of the three filters below are adequately sized.
◦K&N offers several filters that can be used with the Air Maze housing. ◾Part # E-3050 is 3.5 inches long.
◾Part # E-9257 is 5.5 inches long.
◾Part # E-2040 is 6.625 inches long.
But the site make this recommendation.
“◦To provide some margin for the filter getting dirty, before you get around to cleaning it, I would recommend the 5.5 inch long length. I know it is an over kill, but I am currently using the 6.625 inch long one to allow for driving on dusty gravel roads and to extend my time between filter cleaning / re-oiling cycles.”

http://www.model-a.org/filtering_air_into_carb.html

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I use the shorter one (5.5). No fouled plugs here at all.

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The 180 curved filter caught my eye, bought one and thought the single 1/4-20 hex head set screw was not the best way to to hold the unit to the carb. Planned to add two more set screws , but at the last minute I put it on for a local tour. My brand new filter was last seen by the Model A traveling behind me in downtown Nashville being run over by my right rear tire. You may want to re engineer the clamping action!

Re: Air filter question