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Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way A couple of years back I purchased a 3-4 inch dropped axle
I believe it to be made from an original ford axle because it has the Ford insignia I also received 2 bars that went from the axle back to the frame The setup probably came from the 50's It's definitely a Model A front axle except dropped I read all the procedure that the gentleman did lowering his A with a 32/36 axle , spring perches , spindles etc How do I go about installing this in a stock 30-31 A with procedure, parts , What problems would I run across? Currently have 225 radial 16's on the car Can I use the stock wishbone or do I need to install the bars going back to the frame if that's where they attach. Thanks Ken |
Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way I'm no expert, but if its a stretched axle, then your wheel width is going to be narrower.
An A axle is fairly straight, so 3 or 4 inches is a lot. |
Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way I would take this one over to the H.A.M.B loads of info around this over there.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ |
Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way p.m me or call
i have spent many a hour going through ford parts and getting them to work together to lower my model a's tom |
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I used a '32 axle, reversed eye and took some leaves out of the pack. Lowered it quite a bit.
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Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way If the axle is dropped it is definitely to short.
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sure you have a minimum of 5° of caster at ride height with the tires that your going to use... The caster changes with tire diameter,..front or rear.. |
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Tiny, here is how one guy did it. Not mine. But anything could be fabricated similar.
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Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way I wonder if you could swap the kingpins and brake actuators
from one side to the other, turn the actuator arms 180 so they point down like the 32-34 to lower the brake rods. Bob |
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This is a complete 32 axle setup under my roadster. Sorry the photo is not the best.
The actuators and kingpins were moved to the opposite side and the brake levers changed so they pointed up like an A's. I did this because if left in the orginial location the brake levers pointing down interfered with the spring perches. You can not change just the brake lever as the actuator only works one way. You can use the A kingpins and actuators but this is what I had. Stock shocks would not fit between the brake rod and frame so I am using Delco Lovejoy era shocks. The car has been on the road for two years now with no problems. |
Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way Ken, consider returning the car to original. I know that may sound quaint and stupid, but there is a lot of value and enjoyment in the Model A as Henry built it. There are tons of resources for choosing the correct parts to return your car to original. For instance, you could start with the 'Restoration Guidelines and Judging Standards' -- an awesome work. And there are others, and guys on this forum to help.
This is a restoration forum for stock Model A's. In other words, we're restoring the cars to original condition, as they came off the factory floor. There's another forum for mods you're describing. I'm sure you can respect that. :) |
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Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way What NewShirt is trying to say is that your on the incorrect forum! Surprised you have not been deleted as of yet! My advise is to make the car as you want and enjoy it! I have both stock cars and hot rod cars in my blood! Yes I enjoy them both. But if someone gets a little testy about a modification I made so be it. It's my car and I'll do what pleases me. End of the story!! JMHO
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Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way As I said get some love on the H.A.M.B :)
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Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way Kenwood,
I've done what you're looking for. PM me with your email address and I will send some pics and info. Some guys here view this as a restoration forum and get upset with posts about Model A mods. I can walk you through it but best to take it private out of respect for other members. |
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I was using the wrong term. What does one do with the anti-rattlers or brake rod return spring? The little hangers that are in between the brake service cross shaft and the backing plate. It seems that as the incline of the brake rod increases the spring would bind the brake rod. This is the one piece of this puzzle that I have never seen in a picture of this conversion |
Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way AH,,,,,,,my mistake Tiny. :confused: I guess a guy would have use a little double chrome molium organic a rang a tang fabrication of metal organisms and welding of the mind,,,,,,,,,,,:eek: Or? ;) I don't recall how the guy did it in the picture I posted. I seen that truck along time ago. But I do remember he had black walls on it. :D Blackwall Panther Club Member? :rolleyes: Maybe.
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Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way Warning Thread Hijack! Forgive me. I don't see this site as only a restoration site, I see it as an old Ford site, with old Ford guys in it, and these old guys know how to modify these old Fords in the "old ways".
The guys I do know here personally with old Fords have modified them, and when they modify one, they do it with a passion that's totally done with respect to their old fords. When I was building my junkyard "A"; guys here gave me the dimensions that allowed me to put the body back together, how to make the '46 brakes work, how to adjust the steering box etc. It was a car that most here would've tossed aside, but I knew the expertise I needed was here. And I totally respect Henry's cars. Heck even Henry realized that he needed better brakes and another color besides black. My hats off to the guys here who were willing to help me, Thank you. And I have a gazillion questions about my '40 coupe, the one with no floors, the body falling apart at the drip rails. I'm going to need help, lot's of it from you "old" Ford guys. Thanks again. Pat |
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I've fitted a 4" dropped axle to my speedster. It was new, and what I can't understand is, if they're making a new axle, why isn't the track or width the same as an original axle?
Also, I had brackets made up to support the brake shaft, but these flexed rearwards when the brakes were applied so I had to add a diagonal strut back to the radius arms |
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At the risk of having this thread taken down, I will say a correctly dropped original Ford axle will be stretched to maintain the original track dimension. I do not know why new ones are not done that way.
As for perch extensions, we made uprights sculpted from 3/8" plate and welded them to after market perches. No flexure or failure. ps: those are 12" '35 drum/hubs and backing plates on Model A spindles in the pic. |
Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way Nice job, both of you.
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Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way Thanks everyone for the input about the dropped axle. Maybe when it was installed they had hydrolic brakes. My $100 purchase will continue to lean against the wall.
New shirt comment: The dropped axle is not in the car as stated so you must be referring to the 16" rims. I changed the rims after I installed the Rocky Mountain drums. The coupe has a wooden box on the back probably installed in the 40's . We were told it had something to do with gas stamps? I purchased my first A in 1962 and have a lot of respect for the original. |
Re: Re how to lower an A the old fashioned way Further thoughts on fitting a dropped front axle; If you fit a 4" dropped front axle you will find the tie rod is too close to the chassis. The fix for that is to "gooseneck" the tie rod at each end, and then you will discover that it is not possible to make fine adjustment to the toe-in,
This requires an adjuster to be fitted to the middle of the tie rod. Next you will discover that the tie rod and drag link are too close to each other and likely to clash during suspension movement , so you need to put a kink in the drag link, but once again you will need an adjustable drag link if you want your steering centred and full lock in both directions. The answer to these issues could be dropped steering arms, but all those available will only fit later stub axles and so another modification is required. Having installed a new 4" dropped front axle and discovering it's narrower as well as all the issues listed above, I have some regrets about going down that track, but I really wanted my speedster to sit lower for the right look Keith |
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