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Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Yo Flop, I have been in the sandblasting game for 35 years. so that is why I cringe at disc sanding panels.
That coupe paint looks pretty good. I take it you do not have a sandblaster and I figure your old sand paper is clogging with paint and causing heat before you get to metal, as well as the sand marks in panel.. Try a heat gun and a sharp putty knife to melt paint off. Then if you must, it will be a very light lick over with 120 grade. Get a 2 inch wide putty knife and cut it back to about 1 1/2 inches LONG and round the edges off, so it is short and very stiff. Heat the paint and you will know when it gets soft enough to peel off in sheets, way before any excess heat will warp panel. Start on an angle with knife under paint and blow heat forward and keep going. You would do that 1/4 panel in about 15 minutes. Thick paint is best for heat, not so good with thin paint. Some types of paint don't react too well to heat, then you must resort to stripper if you do not have a blaster. If I have to strip a panel smooth, no blast profile for paint tooth, I run over with an orbital sander with worn out 36 grit. Gives a perfect tooth for primer. Here is one of my old videos. I will make a better one next time I have to blast and get dirty. (apologies for work behind hand a bit, because I was holding cam with one hand while blasting and thinking the lens was getting peppered. I will cover the cam with plastic next time for a better view). http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k1...Movie_0001.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Wow Pooch, ...maybe it was a good thing your hand WAS there to protect the camera lens from ricocheting media!! I DO agree with your assessment regarding stripping using a disc.
One thing in FLOP's defense regarding the paint stripping is when doing a customer project, often times the 'how', --or 'what' he wants to do it is not an option. There are things we do that might cause others to question why we did it that way when the true answer is either we did not have the budget to do it the proper way, ...or the customer did not want it done that way. 30cab, check for a PM. . |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Just to add, I did not use this plastic bottle blaster when I was doing it full time.
I sold all my industrial gear when I retired. The bottle is just an example of how to make a clog free suction/gravity fully adjustable set up. |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work just about finished up with the body today besides bending the edges over the subframe on the new patches.
the passenger quarter was the last piece. really solid but the break where it wrapped under neath was gone made a new piece for it http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._2749043_n.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._6044476_n.jpg couldnt figure out how to make it in one long piece so 2 pieces it was http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._5729177_n.jpg just about done except for the edge it still needs some more smoothing where it wraps into the wheel well http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._3214533_n.jpg and we are just about done with the body!! http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._1695037_n.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Flop, great job and looks like a brand new A body.
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Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Nice work Flop. I agree with you about the stud gun one of the best purchases I made also.
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Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Awesome work as usual Flop. How's the Pontiac coming along? I noticed a few cameo shots in this thread.;)
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Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work thanks again guys. not done yet still got some little stuff and fenders to fix
dash needs some extra holes filled thats the next small project .is the passenger side of the dash supposed to have the reveal in it .you can see it where the sanding marks are.if it not its a hell of a perfect creas put in some how . http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._2338752_n.jpg heres a pic of what everyones been asking for. what tools i use to do this stuff. once again i have no compressor use a 4500 rpms sander and a 4 1/2 inch grinder with the rubber backer cut way down so ya get less grinder marks http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/DSC03272.jpg Druss pontiac is being neglected havent touched it in months . |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Nice work Flop...
Keep us posted Bill |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Quote:
It appears you are working on an early '30. These firewalls had a bad habit about cracking around the radiator rod mounts. Ford later made a revision and added reinforcements to the back side of the firewall to help keep this from happening. You may want to think about adding something to reinforce this area. I have a early '30 Tudor that had this same problem and did not want it to re-occure so I reinforced this area when I did the repair. Just a thought. Chris |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work 4 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Below is a few images showing the cracks drilled, vee-ed, and filled. The reinforcing plates are added to the back side and the 4 holes are plug welded and metalfinished smooth to look more like a spot weld. The firewall rivets are heated & bucked in with a 3X gun to entirely fill the firewall hole first, then it is ground nearly flat on the backside and then waffled. The reason it is done that way is so the shank of the rivet can be red hot during installation for maximum swelling. The waffle tool is designed to be used cold, so thus it is done in two stages. . |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work good tips guys
extra holes in the dash that gotta disappear http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._3746392_n.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._6500055_n.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...0_313704_n.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._2077043_n.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p..._2256169_n.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Nice, what did you use for the plugs?
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Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work About to go through all the same exact repairs on the coupe. Wish I could just drop it off! I'll be referring to this post a whole lot!
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Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work of course it went to the sandblaster on the snowiest day of the year
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/DSC03309.jpg and this is what it looked like when it came back and headed back to its owner this is just in epoxy primer no body filler http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...d/DSC03386.jpg here is a short video of the car on youtube as well https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXVHPi9836c |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Yup. That's real nice. How many hours do you have in repairs?
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Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Quote:
I saw at USA Weld a shrinking tip for a stud gun. I don't know if it will fit your gun. |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Jason I have between 40 and 50 hours into the car on the sheetmetal work.
Mike I have the shriknking tip it work well for a small shrink. |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work 2 separate customers sets of fenders i will be posting up soon
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ad/fenders.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Sheetmetal Work Love your work and finished products.
Paul in CT |
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