The Ford Barn - Thermostat

The Ford Barn (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/index.php)

- Model A (1928-31) (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=3)

- - Thermostat (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=327671)

Please pardon my density, but since As do not have a pressurized cooling system nor a water-based heater (generally), why do you need a thermostat at all? Most concerns I have seen on the Barn concern overheating, not lack of heat. To echo Mcgarrett, what am I missing?

A number of owners report that their engine never gets above 160° while running, and a larger number report that it takes a long time to reach operating temperature. This can happen if you've replaced the radiator with a robust modern unit. To operate at peak efficiency, the engine should be around 185°, +/- 5. The thermostat helps the engine get there and stay there.

When I move out of Northeast Texas I may consider a thermostat. Tried one and it gave me more problems than it was worth.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexiskai (Post 2236747)

Good information--thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell Reay (Post 2236740)

You need to get the engine warm enough to vaporize the BAD stuff (unburned hydrocarbons, water and acids) from the combustion process that leak past the rings into crankcase. This undesirable junk exits the engine out your breather tube.

The addition of a road draft tube helps remove this BAD stuff from your engine.

I run a 160°F thermostat. On a normal day my engine runs at 175°F.

There have been internet discussions about installing thermostats without a by pass system used in engines designed for a stat. The rear cylinder on an A may get too hot with potential steam pockets or pump cavitation until the stat opens.
Y, where does one install a draft tube on a stock A engine ? Some run with the B engine larger oil fill pipe. Is that sufficient ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by duke36 (Post 2265349)

Additional draft tube--where/ how to install?

Also, the Vintage Precision unit can have a heavy duty stat in it, which supposedly has a stronger spring, a higher flow capacity and a tougher overall construction. It is not an all open or fully closed stat either, as I recall. It does not allow wide swings of temp. It holds a fairly steady 160 degree temperature. On our car's gauge that is 155-160 degrees.

We drive the car almost daily. It has a recently rebuilt engine with what must be a heavy duty radiator. The engine runs 80 degrees above ambient after warmed up. On a 30 degree morning, that's an oil temp of 110 degrees. Cold oil creates sludge, so i'm told, and certainly doesn't lubricate the best.

Before the thermostat, I had to cover the radiator clear up to the light bar in the winter to get temps of 140-160 depending on temps. That is a pain as the cover must be adjusted if it gets warm for a couple days then drops back down to the 20s and 30s.

If you don't drive your A much and mostly in the summer, if your temp runs in healthy range, I'd go without the stat too.

Our car came with the alternator that looks a lot like a generator with cutout too, I will install an original generator and cutout from NDNChief if the fancy alternator fails.

Hope this helps.

Sorry but as good as the VP unit might be, it just does not look correct sitting there. It looks out of place.

Quote:

Originally Posted by duke36 (Post 2265751)

Additional draft tube--where/ how to install?

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/s...searcht=A-6764

Installation instructions there also.