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Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders I also can vouch for Dave Tatum. Last time I stopped by his shop he was sitting on a stool setting valve lash. He has always been good to me with price and his old flying stories are worth the drive. Actually about 1/2 hour after I get off the ferry.
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I would highly recommend them for any flatty work. As I remember he even said they had a set of torque plates. |
Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders Old Gold , Where are you located ? Im in Olympia and have the same ? . I'm rebuilding a 8CM for my 41 pickup and think I have found a shop to do it. Tim
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Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders I have contacted most the rebuilders mentioned in this thread and every one of them, so far, has seemed to know what they’re doing but each have a different approach to rebuilding these old flatheads. A couple want to replace the crank with either a later model factory crank, one guy wanted to buy an all new crank, rods, cam, etc. and some are fine with using the factory internals. I still have yet to determine if this engine is a 221 or a 239 but I’m sure it’s a 1941, possibly a 1942 based on what I’ve learned from previous engine identification discussions. The consensus with all the builders is that determining whether the block is good is the first step and that a visual inspection for cracks doesn’t tell the whole story since cracks can show up during the magnafluxing as well as after the machining operations. There does appear, from what I can see since it’s still assembled, is that there is a bit of rust and corrosion inside the heads, water pumps, and I’m assuming it carries on throughout the block. I know this will need to be cleaned out and pressure tested. Is there anything wrong with running the factory crank? Are floater bearings that bad or are they just a paint to deal with. If this motor seems solid and cannot visually find any cracks, is there any reason why I shouldn’t just replace some gaskets, oil, clean out the rust and see if it’ll run? Prices on a rebuild so far are $5k - $11k. Most likely, I will have the machining done by someone qualified and assemble the motor myself, to not only learn more but also to save a few bucks. I still have plenty to do on my ‘36 pickup so I’m not in any hurry on this engine, but still wanting to get an early jump on it. I appreciate all the advice.
Tim, I am in Silver Creek... about an hour south of Olympia. Let me know what you’ve found out. Thanks. |
Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders For a stock engine or even mild hot rod your crank is just fine as I stated earlier floater bearings are just fine to very good & really no big deal to set up.
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Or need bearings right away you may pay big $ for them but with patience it’s not necessary. The lil 60 bearings can be even more of a challenge but agin with patience my inventory is large at little cost. Please note. I am not in the parts business so I purchase for the engines I build for customers & myself. Cheers Tony eg. .030 under rod bearings to suit 2" crank journals for $150 for sale right now available to all that look. Thats not expensive in my world. |
Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders What you guys are debating about seems to be the main difference between the builders I've spoken to. Half are good with the factory type bearings and the others want to install all new later model crank, rods, cam, etc. or at least use good factory 59A or 8BA pieces. I'm not looking for any more performance than a factory prewar flathead provided. I want it to run good and be reliable, but I don't expect much more from the old flathead than that. I'll most likely run the floater bearings and the crank that is in the engine, assuming the crank is good and that I can find the size of bearing I need. Thanks
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Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders Thanks for all the help!
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Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders Has anyone had recent contact with Dave Tatom? He has been laid up in the hospital and then assisted living since June. I was in regular contact with him up until a few weeks ago and now his cell# is disconnected. He had to shut down his business and his landlord said that his helpers have cleaned out his shop.
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Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders Dave will probably not be back in business himself. I think he is selling or has sold his mahine tools to a person who wants to learn flatheads from Dave. The thing is, Dave is still in rehab and who knows when or if he will be strong enough to assist the new guy. Sad that this knowledge and experience is slowly disappearing. As I said in a previous post, I have several engines he did the machine work on. I spoke with him just a couple of days ago.
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Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders Great post. First thing, what do you expect from the finished product? Also the 8ba block and rotating assy would be my first choice, as it's the least expensive to rebuild. The block can also be used by putting the 59 Head and cam init. Again cost savings ans a quality finished product. 258ci with milled heads, stock early intake and distributor, Excellent performance and economy.
Gramps |
Re: PNW Flathead Rebuilders Hi OG360, I had the same ? about one year ago. I found three old school shops that know what they are talking about. All of them are very busy. Buds in Lake wood has done work for me on my flat head Cadillac and really knows his stuff. How ever he is 80 years old and not taking any more work on until he finds more machinist for his shop. Barry's in Chehalis is very good and had two 8BAs on the floor when I was there last spring talking with him. I ended up going to Portland Engine Rebuilders because I wanted hard seats cut into my 53 block and they had the equipment and experience to do it. Great guys with lots of experience with flat head fords. Be warned these guys are all good but have long waiting lines. The shortest time frame was Barry's at four months. Prices seemed to be around $3000 at that time. Of course that depends on the work you want done. Where are you at? I'm Olympia. Tim
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