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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Then read the next paragraph in the owners instruction book-- how to test that you have the timing set correctly--- as you hand crank it push in the pin, as it drops in the recess spark should occur
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
But why?? |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse 1 Attachment(s)
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Makes it easy to set it like in post #16. Also I guess you could ask why for the wrench in the picture. |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse If it's an old engine with low compression, say 50 psi or so then it may need to be advanced to give it some zip and zing on todays fuels. Maybe that is what the previous owner did.
Good to know how much compression you have anyway. |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse I also have a nu rex tool, and had the same issue of how it ran, this was on a BB, but it times the same, just no advance lever, I also used it on an A a few days ago and the way the wrench set it it was no where close to what the book says for setting the cam to where the points are just starting to open, about the only good I see in the tool is to hold the cam in place in case the screw was to turn it.
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
Since the timing lever gives a total of 40 deg. advance when fully down, there would be no need to mess with the setting of the distributor cam! 40 deg. is more than enough advance, even for a worn engine. |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse It's been mentioned before but I'll ask again, did you make sure the point gap was correct before re-timing the engine? I've been stumped on the side of the road when my car started losing power and couldn't climb any hill just like you say. Then I remembered I installed a new set of points about 100 miles before, sure enough the gap had closed to almost nothing. Opened it up and away I went.
Also, could not agree more that once the base timing is set, do not mess with it again! I will also say that checking for spark at #1 when the pin drops into the dimple is the best and easiest sanity check to make sure your timing is set correctly. |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
I called Nurex when this tool first came out and they said it would not work on the B distributor. |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Lots of good advice. Unfortunately Rivokid hasn't looked at this thread since shortly after he posted the original question and replied in post #3.
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xc7r0djEKo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zju4nagtiCU here are two videos part one and two of Les Andrews with pictures explaining the situation. I too found the Nu Rex tool was getting me in the ballpark, but when I manually did it with a test light as described here in the video and better so in his book, I had a better run. remember in the book it talks about CW and CCW ...pay attention...clockwise and counterclockwise!! I found his red book pretty easy to follow but you need a voltage light... |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Quote:
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Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse Easy solution
Just do it again |
Re: Timed my roadster - now runs worse I must admit I have used the Nurex and have never been particulary impressed with it.
I normally time mine by finding TDC set the rotor up on number one then rotate the cam counter clockwise ( Removes backlash) and adjust the cam so that the slightest movement clockwise opens the points then lock the cam down .Easy quick and effective |
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