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Re: Gas tank seeping. I think if you use a good quality sealer, and follow the directions to the “T”, it will work for you.
Remove tank, coat at least twice, and let tank stand for a couple of days before the second or third coating. Take your time!!!! Read instructions!!!! Don’t take short cuts!!!! We have had really good luck doing this. I even think that a good sealer will seal over one that was not done properly. If they seal over rust, why not other potential problems. What do you have to loose. |
Re: Gas tank seeping. Not sure,just I have been following parts like NOS 37-36 Ford parts for years and not Model A,just wondered if ever shown up.I imagine that a NOS would be rust and fatigue free if stored properly. Some NOS parts were manufacture seconds and needed work when it came to a dealership at least sheet metal parts. I bought a NOS 46 Ford fender once that had an issue when stamping out and I was told parts like this were never tossed but depended on the body shop to address.
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Re: Gas tank seeping. I think as a stop gap repair you should add the later 31 style brace. This will help take the pressure off of the tank. Then you can clean up around the old bracket and seal it with "Seal-all" gas tank sealer or the epoxy gas tank repair kit. This will buy you some time but in the end you'll be removing the tank and doing it properly.
Hope this helps The Old Tinbasher |
Re: Gas tank seeping. Someone put the dash mount on my 29 Tudor, then soldered the bracket without removing the tank. You can see the thick solder around the bracket, but it's well sealed, and the tank looks like new inside. You can use the large old soldering coppers to safely solder the tank.
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Re: Gas tank seeping. I too was a victim of this tank damage due to the steering wheel mount. I did not want to remove the tank either. But in response to some advice (even some scoldings to "do it right" from this forum) I did. It was not an easy task but in the long run beneficial. In the process, since the firewall is part of the tank I replaced all the ignition wiring as well. For the tank I removed the riveted mount and TIG welded the the rivet holes. Then had the inside coated by a radiator shop. Repainted the entire tank with a rattle can. Color is one slight shade lighter but un-noticeable. 3 years later, not a drop leaking.
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Re: Gas tank seeping. My restored car developed this same exact problem. I installed the later style bracket from the dash after the problem developed. My plan was to "seal" around the old bracket where it was weeping, but in 2 years there is no evidence of any gasoline weepage around the old bracket. Go figure!? Maybe that will be your easy way out as, so far, it has been for me.
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A good quality sealer properly applied will outlast us and most likely, the car. I've also had good success when treating a rusty tank by using phosphoric acid (which leaves a white powdery residue) to clean out the rust, then using the best sealer I can find. In my most recent job, I solved both problems (rust and a leak) at the same time. |
Re: Gas tank seeping. I used 31 bracket and sealed around tank bracket with Marine-Tex Gray epoxy. 8+ years and not a drop leaking.
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Re: Gas tank seeping. I just bought an NOS Model A tank at the latest Hershey. Until I stumbled upon it, I didn't think they existed.
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Re: Gas tank seeping. After the "stop gap" methods; the permanent method. Right TinBasher? :cool:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=40955 https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=40956 |
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Thanks for the ingenious tip, never would have thought of this on my own! |
Re: Gas tank seeping. I have bought 2 nos late 31 tanks in the last 5 years
Both shinny as a new penny inside! Felt very lucky to find them ......not cheap!! |
Re: Gas tank seeping. does anyone have any inside information that someone might manufacture the alternate bracket specially designed for 28-29s?
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If there is a market for what you want over there, I suggest modifying a 1931 bracket to fit, then usung it as a pattern to do the same as I did. |
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