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Old 09-10-2011, 03:07 PM   #1
700rpm
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Default Removing a steering wheel - SOLVED!

I have tried three kinds of pullers on this 1930 wheel, and it will not budge. It's on tapered/keyed shaft, it's a relatively new wheel (last five years or so), and I've soaked it overnight with PB Blaster.

Nada.

Any suggestions?

Last edited by 700rpm; 09-12-2011 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 09-10-2011, 04:04 PM   #2
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

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I have tried three kinds of pullers on this 1930 wheel, and it will not budge. It's on tapered/keyed shaft, it's a relatively new wheel (last five years or so), and I've soaked it overnight with PB Blaster.

Nada.

Any suggestions?
I can help you! Sure fire way. Do it EXACTLY as I describe.
Screw nut partly on, sit with your feet planted on floor, grasp steering wheel at both sides, with elbows STRAIGHT, lean your upper body back STRAIGHT, ROCK YOUR UPPER BODY SIDE TO SIDE WITHOUT BENDING YOUR ELBOWS.The secret is that one arm pulls up on the wheel, while the other pushes down at the SAME time, and this will cause the taper to "POP" loose. I haven't had to use a puller since the '50's after learning this from an old pro!!
Be sure to have the nut partly on or you will surely get a nose bleed when it pops loose.
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:40 PM   #3
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

The rear axle has the same threads as the steering shaft. You can use the rear hub remover called the knock off wheel puller. This inexpensive tool is listed on page 156 of the 2011 Brattons catalog. This tool can be screwed on to the steering shaft where the steering wheel nut goes. the tool will bottom on the steering shaft before it reaches the steering wheel. With the tool bottomed on the steering shaft you will need to pull firmly up on thr steering wheel while someone strikes the tool firmly with about a three pound drilling hammer. You might could sit in the drivers seat with your nees pressing up on the wheel while striking the tool with a hammer yourself. I have preformed this operation many times myself and it works very good. With the tool bottomed on the shaft there is no danger of harming the threads if you strike the tool squarly. this is much safer than striking the steering wheel nut. I also have the steering wheel puller and both tools require striking with a hammer, maybe this is why it hasn't worked for you. Good luck, it should be fairly simple
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Old 09-10-2011, 08:23 PM   #4
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

Thank you, gentlemen, but neither of those methods worked either. But I'm still open to other suggestions.

I have pulled other wheels and never had this much trouble. I'm thinking whoever put this thing on used some kind of super adhesive.
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Old 09-10-2011, 09:11 PM   #5
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

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Thank you, gentlemen, but neither of those methods worked either. But I'm still open to other suggestions.

I have pulled other wheels and never had this much trouble. I'm thinking whoever put this thing on used some kind of super adhesive.
Steering gear has to be IN the car! Take out back cushion out so your body is straight, even if your head is up to the roof! SECRET IS TO KEEP ELBOWS straight and rock your whole body from side to side with your feet as a pivot point.
Put your feet alongside clutch and brake, up where floorboard meets firewall, that will give you more room. It's easier in cars that have reclining seats!! I have done it numerous times in Model A's though.
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Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 09-10-2011 at 09:24 PM. Reason: ADDITION
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Old 09-10-2011, 09:18 PM   #6
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

With the steering column out of the car, I still couldn't get the wheel off. The steering wheel puller that the vendors sell was useless, it even started to bend, and it still wasn't budging. I took the whole mess over to an automotive machine shop, They drilled and tapped a couple of holes and used a puller for a modern wheel, came right off. Holes are covered up by the light switch, so no one is the wiser.
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:01 PM   #7
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

Did you hit the part of the puller that contacts the steering shaft with a hammer to jar the steering wheel loose?
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:13 PM   #8
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

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Thank you, gentlemen, but neither of those methods worked either. But I'm still open to other suggestions.

I have pulled other wheels and never had this much trouble. I'm thinking whoever put this thing on used some kind of super adhesive.
I'm thinking heat to soften the adhesive, not open flame but maybe a heat gun along with one of the above methods.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:22 PM   #9
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

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Did you hit the part of the puller that contacts the steering shaft with a hammer to jar the steering wheel loose?
Yep. I'm thinking I didn't have a heavy enough hammer, though.

I've got it soaking tonight in a witches brew of PB Blaster, lacquer thinner, and rubber cement thinner. We'll see what the morrow brings.
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:27 AM   #10
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

I give up, the dog & I are going to bed. If you lived next door, I could have your steering wheel off in 37 seconds!
I had an excellent instructor.
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Old 09-11-2011, 01:41 AM   #11
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

If witche's brew doesn't work, try 50/50 mix of acetone and atf.
Paul in CT
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:10 AM   #12
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

Be careful that the lacquer thinner doesn't get on the paint.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:53 AM   #13
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

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I give up, the dog & I are going to bed. If you lived next door, I could have your steering wheel off in 37 seconds!
I had an excellent instructor.
Bill, I might just bring it down to you!
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:47 PM   #14
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

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Bill, I might just bring it down to you!
I was disapointed that you didn't understand my technique. It DOES work EVERY time if done properly!
Tapered fits are a bitch to break loose. I truly hope that some others out there understood my method.
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Old 09-12-2011, 12:20 AM   #15
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

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I was disapointed that you didn't understand my technique. It DOES work EVERY time if done properly!
Tapered fits are a bitch to break loose. I truly hope that some others out there understood my method.
It's out of the car; I think that's why your method didn't work for me.
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Old 09-12-2011, 04:07 PM   #16
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - or not

With the column out of the car this is how I do it. 1. Loosen the nut so that it is flush with the top of the treads. 2. find a bolt the same size as the inside of the shaft so that it will fit down into the shaft. 3. put a heavy washer on the bolt but with a hole in the washer only as big as the bolt diameter. 4. Put the bolt down the hole. 5. (If you're right handed) hold the wheel in your left arm so that the circumference is supported by your left hand and arm suspended up off the floor. 6. using a 2 or 3 pound hammer smack the top of the bolt using your right hand to swing the hammer. The shock should break the taper's grasp. Make sure that the nut is flush with the top of the shaft where the threads are to avoid any damage to the threads.
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:37 PM   #17
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Default Re: Removing a steering wheel - SOLVED!

First, thanks to everyone who made suggestions. I think it was a combination of all those methods that finally did the trick, but here is how we made it work:

I soaked the upper shaft over night with my witch's brew, described above. This morning a friend and I tackled it. After giving it a few ineffectual but solid raps with an 8-lb sledge and the hub puller, we turned it over, and with the steering wheel on the garage floor (on a pad), one of us kneeled on the wheel and gave it a severe wiggle and twist while the other stood with a foot on the far side of the wheel and helped work it from above. When we picked it up to see if it was loose, it fell off onto the floor.

Subsequent disassembly revealed myriad problems with previous work, but most things are reusable. I'll new buying a new shaft and worm gear, and a new upper race. That's it!
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