53 8ba hard start issue

[HOTRODSURFER]

my flatty is hard to start after being driven then sitting for a half hour or more cranks long like it is flooded -carb was just rebuilt-has new float and power valve-is fine if it sits over night -we rebuilt carb for same hard start condition wich started about a month or so ago -I am kinda stumped -I am running stock mechanical fuel pump and in line filter

[George/Maine]

I just had a problem with starting I installed a new pump and filter runs good now.

[HOTRODSURFER]

New!!

[rheltzel]

It is likely that your fuel is boiling in the carb float due to residual engine heat. I suggest you get one of Bob Drake's phenolic carb spacers. I had the same problem; installed the spacer and haven't had problem since. Here's a link to the relevant thread with more details: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...henolic+spacer

It's not the only thing that could be causing a problem, but it's a relatively cheap fix which eliminates one likely cause of your described symptoms.

[trainguy]

Typical problem with modern corn gas.A low pressure Airtex electric pump inline with a push button switch will help and also make starts after car sets for more than a week. Phil

[19Fordy]

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Originally Posted by HOTRODSURFER

New!!

Thanks for the correction. I deleted what I said.

[rheltzel]

A good fuel pump is important, but will not cure fuel boiling when the engine is shut off. The hard start problem described is caused by flooding caused by fuel boiling in the float chamber and puking into the manifold/cylinders. No fiddling with a fuel pump will fix that. The fix is to eliminate the cause of fuel boiling: excessive residual engine heat being transmitted to the carburetor.

[Binx]

Take an extra spark plug with you next time and ground it on the head with a plug wire of your choosing. Crank it with the starter solenoid or a buddy in the cab and see if you have spark and note the color. The bluer the better. Weak orange/yellow means a coil/condenser problem. Take a peek at your points and if they are prematurely pitted, it is a condenser problem.

Lonnie

[tubman]

I'm singing the same old song : leaking power valve. Take the top off of the carb and fill the float bowl with gas; come back an hour or two later and see if the fuel has drained out of the bowl. With the mish-mash of power valves and gaskets available today, getting the right combination is becoming tougher and tougher.

[Merc Cruzer]

On my 53' Merc, when that happens I just push the accelerator to the floor and hit the starter button. It takes a few cranks but it starts everytime.

[rheltzel]

"On my 53' Merc, when that happens I just push the accelerator to the floor and hit the starter button. It takes a few cranks but it starts everytime."

Yep, that's the textbook answer to the question "How do I start a flooded engine?". But that doesn't solve the underlying problem. Regularly flooding an engine does long term damage to cylinder walls and rings. There's a reason why Hotrodsurfer's engine keeps getting flooded.

It isn't a faulty fuel pump (if it's flooded, it's getting too much gas, not too little) and, assuming it truly is flooded (pretty obvious when it happens), it is unlikely to be ignition-related, if the engine otherwise runs properly once started, although as Binx points out above, it could be. It could be a faulty carburetor, but the symptoms described indicate it only happens after the engine is hot after use.

I had exactly the same symptoms...if I would shut off the engine when it was hot. If I tried to restart it immediately, it would fire instantly; if, however, I waited 15 minutes, it was totally flooded. Using my infrared thermometer, I confirmed that the temperature of the float was above the boiling point of California's "winter blend" gasohol. Removing the top of the float bowl confirmed that there was very little gas in the float chamber...it had all boiled over and puked into the engine.

I'm not saying that something else couldn't be contributing to the problem , e.g. faulty carburetor, less than optimal ignition performance or engine cooling, but if Hotrodsurfer has accurately described the symptoms, it sounds like a classic case of excess residual engine heat boiling fuel in the carb.

Maybe Hotrodsurfer can elaborate on the symptoms and confirm whether it starts (and runs) properly under other conditions.

[HOTRODSURFER]

Originally Posted by rheltzel

"On my 53' Merc, when that happens I just push the accelerator to the floor and hit the starter button. It takes a few cranks but it starts everytime."

Yep, that's the textbook answer to the question "How do I start a flooded engine?". But that doesn't solve the underlying problem. Regularly flooding an engine does long term damage to cylinder walls and rings. There's a reason why Hotrodsurfer's engine keeps getting flooded.

It isn't a faulty fuel pump (if it's flooded, it's getting too much gas, not too little) and, assuming it truly is flooded (pretty obvious when it happens), it is unlikely to be ignition-related, if the engine otherwise runs properly once started, although as Binx points out above, it could be. It could be a faulty carburetor, but the symptoms described indicate it only happens after the engine is hot after use.

I had exactly the same symptoms...if I would shut off the engine when it was hot. If I tried to restart it immediately, it would fire instantly; if, however, I waited 15 minutes, it was totally flooded. Using my infrared thermometer, I confirmed that the temperature of the float was above the boiling point of California's "winter blend" gasohol. Removing the top of the float bowl confirmed that there was very little gas in the float chamber...it had all boiled over and puked into the engine.

I'm not saying that something else couldn't be contributing to the problem , e.g. faulty carburetor, less than optimal ignition performance or engine cooling, but if Hotrodsurfer has accurately described the symptoms, it sounds like a classic case of excess residual engine heat boiling fuel in the carb.

Maybe Hotrodsurfer can elaborate on the symptoms and confirm whether it starts (and runs) properly under other conditions.

the carb was just rebuilt with new float and power valve-plugs cap rotor points and condenser are a year old coil is 3 years old- truck runs at 185 degrees all the time (even on a 95 degree day) and runs like a top - I am leaning toward vapor lock or carb leaking internally-possibly faulty power valve?

[Johnnydidd]

I am using electric fuel pump, if you want to run through old mech pump remove valves, I shut the electric pump before ignition let carb run out of fuel, to start turn on ignition turn pump starts right up.

[FlatheadTed]

I am x 2 with Binx Ted

[supereal]

If you are having a problem with a leak down thru the power valve, you probably have one of the repro valves with a rounded shank where it screws into the carb body. We chuck them in a lathe and cut a new flat base surface that will seal to the gasket. Don't overtighten the power valve. It will distort the gasket and cause leakage.

[48 coupe]

I also do the electric pump shut off for 10 or so seconds before shutdown. [when it's hot out.}
It just burns off a little gas so it won't boil over.

[HOTRODSURFER]

wrapped mu fuel line and used a carb spacer from cool carb technologies -problem solved -no need for electric fuel pump.......
http://www.coolcarb.com/