Advice please - flathead - worth saving?

[Rusty30roadster]

Need some advice please. Recently acquired a 59ab flathead and removed heads. I see that the passenger side valves are all sleeved to standard bore and there looks to be a pin? Also see some atypical pitting Can you please look at the photos and recommend whether this block is worth trying to save?

also realize it’s hard to tell from photos. Thanks for any input.

[tubman]

I've seen worse.

Pressure test it and if it passes, have it "Magna-Fluxed". The "part number" cracks (between the bolt hole and water passage) are usually non-consequential.

Do whatever you can to save a flathead block because they ain't making them anymore.

[Ggmac]

What Tubman said.

[Ol' Ron]

I really don't like to see a relieved block. I don't believe it helps in any way. However, if I'm wrong, just consider the application. If it's a street engine, why bother??
Gramps

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I really don't like to see a relieved block. I don't believe it helps in any way. However, if I'm wrong, just consider the application. If it's a street engine, why bother??
Gramps

Ron,

I don't think the block is relieved. It's just the mark left from the head gasket that makes it look that way in one of the picts.

[Bored&Stroked]

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What do you mean by "the valves have been sleeved to STD bore"? You don't sleeve valves, you sleeve bores. The block does have "hard valve seats" - which all 59X blocks had (every one I've ever seen) - so that is normal.

The pics don't show any sleeves in the bores from what I can discern. Please explain?

As others have said, take it all apart, have it cleaned, magged and pressure tested - then you'll know what you have.

B&S

[pistonbroke]

I've ran much worse with no problems. Get it pressure checked and go from there. The hard valve seats are standard on all but the 52 and 53 block I believe. Tim

[the.secret.victoria]

It looks to me like only the intake valve at cylinder #1 has had a replacement seat installed. Like B&S, I don't see any sleeves in the cylinders.

[mcgarrett]

I believe the poster is referring to new valve seats. Valve seats are fine if they are done properly. The photo of the stitch repair (pins) in the block look like they are also OK, but as previously mentioned - have it pressure tested and magnafluxed to be sure all is kosher.

[mfirth]

Yes, save it.

[Mart]

From the pics it looks to be a good candidate for running again. There looks to be a stitch repair near one of the valves and a new valve seat. Other cracks are normally non harmful.

[Rusty30roadster]

Thank you all for your responses. And I have to correct myself I meant valve sleeves. But upon further inspection in sunlight, now I don’t see sleeves, but can you confirm for me? All the cylinder valves are STD.

There is no relief in the block, that is just the outline from the gasket.

Got the engine from a friend who stored it indoor, dry on the inside and well oiled over the years. Fingers crossed!

I attached better photos in sunlight. I realize it’s hard to tell from pictures but thank you for any advice you can offer and thanks for your responses thus far.

[Bored&Stroked]

Just to help you with your lingo (as you're obviously new to the internals on engines):

1) Valves have 'seats' - which is where they seal against. Some engines just have the seat ground right into the cast iron, others have an additional 'hard seat' that is pressed into the valve pocket - the valve then seats against this hard seat. The hard seat looks like a ring of steel - is about 3/16" deep and the width is approximately 1 5/8 - that is what you're seeing. This is what your engine has - hardened valve seats - pressed into all 16 valve pockets.

2) Your PISTONS are STD - as they are marked on the top as such. The cylinder bores do not appear to be sleeved - so the pistons are running against the original block material (cast iron). If the block is good, you can bore the block to install new/larger (oversize) pistons.

You need to have the bare block hot-tanked, pressure tested, magnafluxed and then sonic tested. Once these vital steps are done (and the block is determined to be food), then the rebuilder can then recommend a good and safe overbore. I tend to bore 3 3/16 blocks to 3 5/16 . . . as I like the cubic inches.

My guess (just from the pics) is that this block has a good chance of being rebuildable. The key thing is to have the necessary know-how to take it apart (and the tools) and then to find a machine shop that is very experienced in building flatheads. There are a variety of specialized flathead-specific tools that are needed to rebuild one of these - only shops that do a lot of them will have the tools.

Cost: It completely depends on what level of build you choose and how many "go-fast" and bling-bling parts you want on it. A rebuild can range from $3000 on the very low end - all the way to $10000+. It all comes down to the performance level, parts, machine work needed, etc..

Suggestion: Whatever you think you're going to budget - at least double it! (more like triple it!).

Recommendation: A guy in California who is a fellow Bonneville racer and all-around good flathead rebuilder is 'Tim McMaster'. He is very experienced with vintage engines and can correctly do the work.

As you're a newbie to flatheads, I recommend that you have a complete engine built (assembled and tested) - it will save you a lot of potential mistakes, drama and money in the end.

Here is a link to his website:

http://yblockguy.com/

[Rusty30roadster]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Just to help you with your lingo (as you're obviously new to the internals on engines):

1) Valves have 'seats' - which is where they seal against. Some engines just have the seat ground right into the cast iron, others have an additional 'hard seat' that is pressed into the valve pocket - the valve then seats against this hard seat. The hard seat looks like a ring of steel - is about 3/16" deep and the width is approximately 1 5/8 - that is what you're seeing. This is what your engine has - hardened valve seats - pressed into all 16 valve pockets.

2) Your PISTONS are STD - as they are marked on the top as such. The cylinder bores do not appear to be sleeved - so the pistons are running against the original block material (cast iron). If the block is good, you can bore the block to install new/larger (oversize) pistons.

You need to have the bare block hot-tanked, pressure tested, magnafluxed and then sonic tested. Once these vital steps are done (and the block is determined to be food), then the rebuilder can then recommend a good and safe overbore. I tend to bore 3 3/16 blocks to 3 5/16 . . . as I like the cubic inches.

My guess (just from the pics) is that this block has a good chance of being rebuildable. The key thing is to have the necessary know-how to take it apart (and the tools) and then to find a machine shop that is very experienced in building flatheads. There are a variety of specialized flathead-specific tools that are needed to rebuild one of these - only shops that do a lot of them will have the tools.

Cost: It completely depends on what level of build you choose and how many "go-fast" and bling-bling parts you want on it. A rebuild can range from $3000 on the very low end - all the way to $10000+. It all comes down to the performance level, parts, machine work needed, etc..

Suggestion: Whatever you think you're going to budget - at least double it! (more like triple it!).

Recommendation: A guy in California who is a fellow Bonneville racer and all-around good flathead rebuilder is 'Tim McMaster'. He is very experienced with vintage engines and can correctly do the work.

As you're a newbie to flatheads, I recommend that you have a complete engine built (assembled and tested) - it will save you a lot of potential mistakes, drama and money in the end.

Here is a link to his website:

http://yblockguy.com/

Thanks. There certainly is no hiding my novice status. I was actually looking at cylinders and using the word valve, mistake on my part - I know the difference. This is embarrassing and I’m not a very good use of your time, sorry. Will get it checked and hopefully that engine builder lives close by. Thanks again

[GB SISSON]

You should not be embarrased in the least. Nobody was born knowing this stuff, we all had to learn, and the fact that you have even become interested in these antiquated engines is uplifting and becoming more rare as time goes by. Stick around and get a degree without a student loan. 'Flathead 101' is a great course and there is a tremendous wealth of knowledge here at the barn. Nice bunch of guys too.

[Elmo Rodge]

Tim McMaster is in Hanford. Definitely worth the drive.
Wayno

[Ol' Ron]

I checked those pictures, and i guess my eyesight is worst than I thought, Have to stop posting, Stupid factor very high. Listen to B&S, he has better eyesight.
Gramps

[Rusty30roadster]

Thanks team! I appreciate your patience with me

[tubman]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

I checked those pictures, and i guess my eyesight is worst than I thought, Have to stop posting, Stupid factor very high. Listen to B&S, he has better eyesight.
Gramps

Please stick around Ol' Ron; what you know is a lot more important than what you can see.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by tubman

Please stick around Ol' Ron; what you know is a lot more important than what you can see.

100%. I only replied as to not confuse the original poster. I thought it was relieved at first as well. I blew up the pict to see it better. Stick around, Ron.