Expert Opinion

[rockfla]

I've got a 1/4 piece of plate steel that fits just about perfect across the intake deck of a flathead and covers the middle most 4 bolt holes. Do you think IF I add a lifting eye in the center of the plate would those 4 bolt holes be strong enough to use to lift a complete flathead withour stripping the threads??

[tubman]

I'm no expert, but when I was a kid, we'd pull 'em out with a chain between 2 intake manifold bolts. (The links on our chain were just a little too small to put a headbolt through.)

[Elmo Rodge]

You'll be fine. I do it all the time.
Wayno

[rockfla]

Thanks for the reassurance, Guys!!!

[19Fordy]

2 intake bolts and a chain has always worked for years. If you have one of those "load levelers" it's even easier. Tensile strength of a grade 5 3/8-16 bolt like those used on intake is over 9000 pounds. Wish you lived closer to me, it would be fun to help you.
https://hiawathafasteners.com/produc...-hex-bolt-zinc

[rockfla]

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Originally Posted by 19Fordy

2 intake bolts and a chain has always worked for years. If you have one of those "load levelers" it's even easier. Tensile strength of a grade 5 3/8-16 bolt like those used on intake is over 9000 pounds. Wish you lived closer to me, it would be fun to help you.
https://hiawathafasteners.com/produc...-hex-bolt-zinc

19Forty



Bolts is my business, I was not concerned with the bolts end of it, more so the block casting and thus "figured" 4 is better than 2......but just wanted a little reassurance of what I figured!!! Thanks, i wish we were closer too, I'm on an Island up here, ALL alone with my V8's!!!


By the way, according to my torque and strength charts....Grd 2 is 74,000 tensile strength, Grd 5 is 120,0000 and Grd 8 is 150,000, L9's are 180,000. Just a little more for Grd 5


Proof load is 6600 and clamp load is 4950 FYI according to my charts!!!! "NC" or Course thread of course!!!!

[rockfla]

19Forty


Not sure exactly how the link you posted came up with 9000Lbs tensile unless they are taking into account the Dia X Lenght to figure somewhat less than "per square inch"???? Here is the chart I have use for 25 years and has been around here since way before my time AS RB&W has been out of business since the mid 70's!!!!


HOPEFULLY Petehoovie will expand this for anyone who would like a copy!!!!

[fordor41]

I've pulled a bunch of engines with the chain/ intake bolts method. I alwys use allen cap bolts. have never bent or broken one.

[DavidG]

Robert,

I use four bolts, one each in the corners, which is probably more stable than using four in the center of the manifold area, in concert with one of those levelers. The latter is pretty much mandatory when installing a engine/transmission assembly into a '32 chassis with its firewall in place given the severe angle required to clear the front cross member and the bottom edge of the firewall at the same time.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by rockfla

19Forty


Not sure exactly how the link you posted came up with 9000Lbs tensile unless they are taking into account the Dia X Lenght to figure somewhat less than "per square inch"???? Here is the chart I have use for 25 years and has been around here since way before my time AS RB&W has been out of business since the mid 70's!!!!


HOPEFULLY Petehoovie will expand this for anyone who would like a copy!!!!

[sugarmaker]

Dont we need pictures with this thread???.......just sayin!
Regards,
Chris

[Bored&Stroked]

I always use 4 intake area bolts. One of the "leveler bars" really does help as you can change the angle during the different "phases" on installation/removal.

[Steve in Denver]

I seconded the Engine load leveler, just be sure to get one with VERY fine threads. The one I got from O'Rilies was so coarse that I had to grease the threads to get it to work. Also get one with a removable or hinged hand crank. When I tilted the engine and tans enough to get it in my '36, I could not turn the crank.

[Ol' Ron]

When you consider the strength of a grade #5 bolt, it doesn't make sense to use ARP Head bolts.
Gramps

[19Fordy]

petehoovie: I stand corrected. You are correct.
https://www.almabolt.com/pages/catal...oadtensile.htm

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Steve in Denver

I seconded the Engine load leveler, just be sure to get one with VERY fine threads. The one I got from O'Rilies was so coarse that I had to grease the threads to get it to work. Also get one with a removable or hinged hand crank. When I tilted the engine and tans enough to get it in my '36, I could not turn the crank.

[Tinker]

We had this discussion about a boat trailer that lost an axle. Guess a leaf spring bolt was lost. Someone said you need a stronger bolt like a grade 8. Well that would be ill advised in my thinking. Grade 8 has very nice tensile stretch like headbolts. But are very unforgiving with forces that attack the bolt with sear force, like a flywheel or shackles. Better that they would bend verse break.


I like arp bolts. Pretty much can count on what you get. Not saying there are smart options that do work great. Nor would i buy a set to pull a motor. Put one together...yes


Have a pittsburg 3/4 leveler pictured first above. Works great for what I need. Doesn't bind.