Mercomatic no shift (all nuetral) All help tremendously appreciated

[rotorwrench]

I caution folks on additives due to the characteristics of the clutch packs. They were not composite on steel back in those days. They were steel and bronze so any exsessive slippage can cause damage.

The Merc-O-Matics began to differ from the Ford-Os when they went to the medium case which was in 1955 with the 292 engine. They also changed to an oil cooled system before Ford. If a person pushes down on the throttle pedal with more force, the trans will shift down to low to start out. If the OP applies more throttle then it might get enough pressure to go into gear. If it still won't go in gear then an inspection of the feed tubes & filter can be done by pulling the pan. A pressure gauge can be attached to the plugged port near the throttle valve for that purpose and do a pressure test before pulling the pan. No or very low pressure is either a pretty good leak, a plugged filter, or the regulator has a problem. These old transmissions have two pumps so it should get some pressure.

[fordor41]

I buy type F at my local Autozone. STP brand.

[KULTULZ]

Firstly, TYPE F FLUID was not introduced until the 1968 model year.

If it were mine (I can only wish) drop the pan and fluid and put a new filter in it (might also consider draining the converter). Add the make-up solvent (of your choice). Let her run until the engine is fully heated (this will also warm the trans cooler) and then put her in gear. If it goes into range, run it through all of the gears to hopefully fully circulate the fresh oil and solvent (might put the rear axle in the air so as to allow the oil to fully circulate while the trans is turning).

If all breaks free take it for a road test. If all seems well, I would then do a manual trans flush with new filter.

If this does not help it, (or leave it set and eat for a day or two) it has to go into diagnostics or the forensics table. How old is it and how long since driven?

[craig]

When I was a kid the neighbor gave me a '60 Galaxie with an aluminum 2 spd trans, because it had the same symptons as your Merc. If it sat overnight, you could drive it, 20 miles or so, then it would quit moving. Let it set a few hours and it would work again. The fluid level was normal and didn't smell. I pulled off the oil pan (14 years old and I was going to fix it?!) and found the filter screen was full of clutch material, but it was dripping/falling off. My conclusion was it ran until it sucked up enough debris that the pump couldn't make any pressure. I cleaned the filter with gas and an air hose and put in some new oil. Then it would go about 30 miles before plugging up again. In the end I put in a used cruisomatic

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by Noodlecare

Hello everyone . I’m new to this forum so if I accidentally mess up sorry I’m advance . I bought my 55 mercury Monterey after it was sitting for 25 years. Got it running did fluids . I took it for one test drive and I cut it short due to my radiator having a leak . I took it home and parked . Two weeks later do the water pump and radiator ,excited for my test drive , I shift it from nuetral to drive nothing . Neutral to park and I get nothing . Same with reverse.

I checked the linkage it’s all hooked up and it’s moving at the trans . The throttle position pressure linkage to trans is also hooked up . No noise or anything off . Just all gears are neutral. I checked fluid with it running and it is where it needs to me . Can the mercomatic tranny just go bad like that ? Nothing changed . I jacked up the rear axle and the driveshaft wasn’t spinning with the motor . And I confirmed all the shift positions are neutra (I can spin rear wheels easy ) I’m really stumped . All help is greatly appreciated

On the left front of the case is an 1/8" pipe plug , put a pressure gage on it and see what the pressure is when it wont move. Bill

[KULTULZ]

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... found the filter screen was full of clutch material, but it was dripping/falling off. My conclusion was it ran until it sucked up enough debris that the pump couldn't make any pressure. I cleaned the filter with gas and an air hose and put in some new oil. Then it would go about 30 miles before plugging up again.

There you go. That and the need for a proper pressure gauge. The gauge is needed to set the control linkage also.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by fordor41

I buy type F at my local Autozone. STP brand.

Learn to read the expiration date on the bottles. I bought 9 bottles from my local O'Reillys store and then learned that they were all expired. Took them all back for a full refund. Not much call for Type-F any more.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Firstly, TYPE F FLUID was not introduced until the 1968 model year. ...

Originally Posted by Merc Cruzer

... Not much call for Type-F any more.

This probably doesn't matter in this particular situation but here it is anyway (since I haven't 'stirred the pot' lately) just because the original transmission fluid hasn't been mentioned.
Not wanting an assumed acceptance of a fluid that may not be the best choice.

I've been told that Type F isn't as appropriate as Mercon/Dexron fluid for 50's Ford automatic transmissions. The original Type A hasn't been available for several decades, made with whale oil apparently...
Mercon/Dexron comes in several varieties that I can't define, if someone else wants to.
Did Ford and Mercury automatics use a different fluid from each other back in the 50's?

The transmission shop that rebuilt the Fordomatic in my '55 told me to use "Mercon" fluid in it. Admittedly they likely used currently available parts and not original/NOS parts from the 50's.

As I understand it, Type F fluid is slightly 'stickier' and may work fine... or result in shifts that are too abrupt in some transmissions, needing to be removed & replaced with something else. Before damage is caused ???

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

This probably doesn't matter in this particular situation but here it is anyway (since I haven't 'stirred the pot' lately) just because the original transmission fluid hasn't been mentioned.
Not wanting an assumed acceptance of a fluid that may not be the best choice.

I've been told that Type F isn't as appropriate as Mercon/Dexron fluid for 50's Ford automatic transmissions. The original Type A hasn't been available for several decades, made with whale oil apparently...
Mercon/Dexron comes in several varieties that I can't define, if someone else wants to.
Did Ford and Mercury automatics use a different fluid from each other back in the 50's?

The transmission shop that rebuilt the Fordomatic in my '55 told me to use "Mercon" fluid in it. Admittedly they likely used currently available parts and not original/NOS parts from the 50's.

As I understand it, Type F fluid is slightly 'stickier' and may work fine... or result in shifts that are too abrupt in some transmissions, needing to be removed & replaced with something else. Before damage is caused ???

dmsfrr,

You are not "stirring the pot", but rather addressing a legitimate concern.

When I took my 53' Merc-O-Matic into the local transmission shop, that still services and rebuilds "older" transmissions, he recommended that I use Type-F and said if I experienced any hard shifting issues that they can be resoled, by simply adjusting the throttle control rod.

What we learn here, is that the same issue can and will be address by different shops, with different answers. Do your research and make a decision that best works for you and your car.

[rotorwrench]

The ford transmissions needed as little slip during shift as they could get. The Type F is the best fluid available for positive clutch engagement. That's why a lot of drag racers use it in the powerglide transmissions they run. If the transmission has been overhauled and the friction plates replaced with modern composite type plates then those can take more slip than the old bronze type frictions. Modern ATF will work with both types of frictions but the type F is a safer bet for longevity with the old metal on metal plates.

If there is a lot of metal in the pan, a person will be needing an overhaul just to save whatever is still good in there. Worn out clutches will not get better with time.

[Noodlecare]

Thank you all for replying . I’m so grateful yet overwhelmed with all the great help . I Had some emergency family stuff so sorry for delay . I put the car on Jackstands and when it was cold it had gears again. I put it into drive and the was a huge delay before the wheels would start to spin. I put it in low and same thing . I would press the brakes to stop momentum and then release and it would take 5 seconds before it would start spinning . I put it into reverse and the wheels would spin in forward then stop and go in reverse direction . I took a video and I will attempt to attach it . I think the time sitting for the tranny caused it to suck something in the pump and it’s reducing pressure and when warm it’s intensified. I’ve decided I want to try adapting my yblock to a th350 I picked up with a manual reverse valve body . It’s overkill for the current status of the motor. But eventually I do want to redo it for more power and I think th350 will do well . If anybody has experience with the kits available today in the market please let me know your experience. I will make thread for peoples responses on that 🙏🙏

[KULTULZ]

I’ve decided I want to try adapting my yblock to a th350 I picked up with a manual reverse valve body.

... sigh ...

[5851a]

You will spend far more than the price of a rebuild on your MercOmatic trying to adapt. Just an opinion but when a automotive inexperienced person attempts a swap the car usually ends up for sale. But it's your car.

[rotorwrench]

If I was going to adapt a transmission, I'd use a Ford AOD with the cable TV control. It's worth it for the Overdrive if nothing else but it is a tight fit in the old Fords. There are adapters for Ford C4 and GM TH350 types to the small Y-blocks but they are still just 3-speeds. Adapters run from 500 to 1200 bucks depending on how thy are equipped.

Parts are still out there for the old Ford-O & Merc-O-Matics since it was basically what the Thunderbird cars went to in that time frame. A person has to find a sharp old transmission man to get one done. I found too many guys that were lost in the fog when it came to the old Borg Warner designs so I do my own when I have to. I had a later 64 Thunderbird with the vacuum modulated Cruise-O-Matic that I tried several shops to get done and I always had some kind of problem that they guys didn't catch. I know far more than I need to know about them now. They are good transmissions when everything is right with them and give many years of trouble free service. Shifting is positive but smooth and seamless as long as a person doesn't abuse them. When a person has a 65+ year old car that has set for a long time then there can be all sorts of problems. Rubber seals for the band and clutch pack servos could be in any sort of condition after so much time.

I'd pull the pan and see what's in there. If it has a lot of metal in it then It will definitely need some new clutch parts and may have other problems. The bands can be relined and new clutches are available as long as stack up height is within specs. The rubber parts have to match the original. Round cross section o-rings don't always work in a place made for square or rectangular cross section o-rings so that stuff has to be right. If the pan just has oil with little or no debris in it then it may just need to be resealed and cleaned out. A person never knows till they get in there.

Generally a torque converter will make noise if there is a problem in there. There could be a torque converter problem but I can't say for sure.

[miker98038]

You might go over to yblocksforever and run a search. DryLakesRacer put a cruiso in a 56 Ford, and he’s really happy. “Hoosier Hurricane” has had some articles on FMX mods to go behind a y block.

You also might list your location, as someone may be able to recommend a good shop in your area.

Back when I was wasting money on automatics, I was doing switch pitch 400’s and B&J overdrives in a vette, 700R4’s when they were considered junk, and Gear Venders in motorhomes. I’d be looking at the measurements of a 2004R even for a Ford. But now I’m wasting money on custom gear sets for TKO500’s, so I’m out of date with the autos.

A manual reverse valve body on the street, unless it came out of your race car and you know about them, well I guess you’ve got bigger ones than I do.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Noodlecare

Thank you all for replying . I’m so grateful yet overwhelmed with all the great help . I Had some emergency family stuff so sorry for delay . I put the car on Jackstands and when it was cold it had gears again. I put it into drive and the was a huge delay before the wheels would start to spin. I put it in low and same thing . I would press the brakes to stop momentum and then release and it would take 5 seconds before it would start spinning . I put it into reverse and the wheels would spin in forward then stop and go in reverse direction . I took a video and I will attempt to attach it . I think the time sitting for the tranny caused it to suck something in the pump and it’s reducing pressure and when warm it’s intensified. I’ve decided I want to try adapting my yblock to a th350 I picked up with a manual reverse valve body . It’s overkill for the current status of the motor. But eventually I do want to redo it for more power and I think th350 will do well . If anybody has experience with the kits available today in the market please let me know your experience. I will make thread for peoples responses on that ����

Come take ride with me in my 53' Merc with Merc-O-Matic. Notice how it shifts, when I pull out onto the highway. And by the way the Merc-O-Matic starts off in second gear, unless you pull it down to low. Also, ask any of your friends with three speed standard transmissions, if they can change gears as fast and smooth, as mine did.:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8ekRfWS_eE&t=1s

They are a great transmission.

[Gene F]

And how does one drain the converter? I bought my car, and am preety sure the old timer put F in it. Maybe thinking about changing the filter, and switching to Mercron, or Dexetron II (if I can find that).

And that set the TV linkage with a gage....I have a factory manual, what page is that on?

[5851a]

That transmission manual is separate from shop manual. There is one on the @bay now for $55. Seems pricey to me, a Motors should cover procedure. I have never had a problem with using Type F in older cars. I prefer to feel a shift. 60's hydromatics and modern lock unlock torque convertors overdrives leave me longing for manual transmissions.

[Gene F]

I think I have a Motors Manual. I would love to put a 5-speed in, esp since I have a tri-power and the factory optional gear. Tons of work though.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Gene F

And how does one drain the converter? I bought my car, and am preety sure the old timer put F in it. Maybe thinking about changing the filter, and switching to Mercron, or Dexetron II (if I can find that). ...

Attached photo, drain plugs in the torque converter.