1931 ford oil leak

[drumyn29]

Ok, so I rolled the dice and changed the oil pan gasket and it didn't fix the oil leak.

Do these motors have a rear main seal? If so can it be replaced without taking the crank out?

[Tom Wesenberg]

They have a rear oil slinger, and it works fine as long as the babbit is done right and the drain tube is in place and not blocked.

[Mitch//pa]

it can also leak down from the rear of the cam. the flywheel housing has a gasket between itself and the block

[pat in Santa Cruz]

read this:
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.c...RMAINLEAK.html

[peters180a/170b]

Don't they all leak....or it would not be a Ford "A" ...

[drumyn29]

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Originally Posted by pat in Santa Cruz

read this:
http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.c...RMAINLEAK.html

Bummer, took cap off and drove around the block and still leaking but It doesn't look as bad. It looks like more than one issue, on to the next test.

[mshmodela]

Hey, somewhat same boat as you since last Friday, I think mine is just the rear of my pan...

I am hopeful it is after reading this:

http://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.c...RMAINLEAK.html

I took a show video of the leak area... I think it's not the rear seal given the above webpage

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOz1lAW4OLA

[drumyn29]

My oil cap

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by drumyn29

My oil cap

Your 4 tabs are bent. they should stick straight out to the side.

Also, I'd loose the steel wool so it can breath easier. If it has too much blowby, I've seen guys put socks over the fill pipe, so the oil doesn't get all over the place. Also you can buy an aftermarket road draft tube.

[James Rogers]

Tom is right on the steel wool, get rid of it. The previous owner probably put it in to stop the engine from dribbling oil and making the engine a mess and stinking. You probably need to check the rear main for clearances and get them right. You need .0015-.002 on the crank to bearing and .004-.012 on the thrust. Not a difficult job but, daunting for a beginner. You may also find when the cap comes off, it has a rope of neoprene seal that is leaking. These can be fixed but not without removing the crank, big job.

[1crosscut]

I agree on getting rid of the steel wool. Never have figured out why steel wool is used in the cap. Why put something there that will no doubt dribble shredded steel directly into the heart of an engine.

[drumyn29]

Originally Posted by James Rogers

Tom is right on the steel wool, get rid of it. The previous owner probably put it in to stop the engine from dribbling oil and making the engine a mess and stinking. You probably need to check the rear main for clearances and get them right. You need .0015-.002 on the crank to bearing and .004-.012 on the thrust. Not a difficult job but, daunting for a beginner. You may also find when the cap comes off, it has a rope of neoprene seal that is leaking. These can be fixed but not without removing the crank, big job.

Man, I would really not like to rebuild this motor! I'm going to take the inspection plate off tomorrow and inspect the flywheel, stay tuned.

[Mike V. Florida]

Remind me, how much oil is it leaking?

[drumyn29]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Remind me, how much oil is it leaking?

4 teaspoons-ish

[Barber31]

Also, I think you mentioned that plug is for holding up the pan. It's for holding up the oil pump when you drop the pan. I have a pressure gauge on mine.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by drumyn29

4 teaspoons-ish

Drive the car put a pan under it when you park. You are on the road to spend time and money and have the leak reduced by 2 or three teaspoons. If you were leaving a puddle two or three feet that would be different.

99.9% of Model A's will drip oil even with everything done right and new.

[drumyn29]

Originally Posted by Barber31

Also, I think you mentioned that plug is for holding up the pan. It's for holding up the oil pump when you drop the pan. I have a pressure gauge on mine.

Please explain?

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by peters180a/170b

Don't they all leak....or it would not be a Ford "A" ...

I'm with you, a couple of teaspoons is not much at all.

[newshirt]

Are you sure it's engine oil? Could be transmission oil leaking past the shift rails into the bell housing. A few drops of tracer dye might reveal the source.

Mitchell Mfg. makes a gadget called "The Real Deal Transmission Seal" for that very issue. You can install without pulling the engine.

More info here:
http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3660

[pat in Santa Cruz]

if your Ford is not leaking, you ought to check the oil level because the pan might be empty. :-)