The Ford Barn

palmaceae · 07-23-2010, 09:39 PM

Now that I have a good running "A" again with the timing perfect, the next project is working on my headlight issue. I have replaced the wiring harness in the car, and I think the problem may be in the light switch assembly. (BTW how is the best way getting that light switch assembly closed, I got it closed but it was not easy).
The left headlight always works, but the right headlight works some of the time. And when it does work it is dimmer then the left (which I would assume is a short somewhere). It seems well grounded but I wonder if I should add a ground wire to the lights?
But since the right light works some of the time, could it just be the light switch, are you supposed to lube the contacts with dielectric grease?
Thanks,
Randy

Bruce of MN · 07-23-2010, 09:49 PM

When you say 'seems well grounded', did you measure the resistance from the shell to, say, a head nut? If it isn't very low, you should see if there is paint to scrape at the H/L mounting stud. If you can route ground wires from the shells to a good chassis ground that wouldn't hurt.

Kurt in NJ · 07-23-2010, 10:06 PM

A NEW lockwasher on the headlight mounting was what fixed my headlight grounding problem many years ago.

if you take a long wire from the battery ground and touch it to the headlight focus adjusting screw and it gets brighter then you have a ground problem

Marco Tahtaras · 07-23-2010, 11:00 PM

It can't be in the light switch assembly unless the new harness is really messed up. Both headlamp wires for each beam connect to the same contact on the switch plate. That means that the lead for both low beams for example are connected to the same source as if they were one.

Herb Concord Ca · 07-23-2010, 11:23 PM

If your head light wiring is stock, look at the three contacts where they enter the bucket, not one of Henry's better ideas.
If you don't plan to show the car, just elminate this junction and solder wires directly to each other and then put some disconnect connectors in the wires along the side of the radiator shell if you like.

Marco Tahtaras · 07-24-2010, 12:42 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herb Concord Ca

If your head light wiring is stock, look at the three contacts where they enter the bucket, not one of Henry's better ideas.
If you don't plan to show the car, just elminate this junction and solder wires directly to each other and then put some disconnect connectors in the wires along the side of the radiator shell if you like.

Actually I think it WAS one of Ford's better ideas. Mine function flawlessly on both cars. With that said I don't think even Henry could have foreseen the low quality level of some "Gyp parts" 80 years after the fact! However without restorable original sockets (and the ability to restore them) a bypass method may indeed be the best choice.

roccaas · 07-24-2010, 07:28 AM

Try a relay? I took the voltage out of the spider switch and moved all headlight/tailight/horn power to a relay on the firewall. Both (halogen) lamps burn at the same (very) bright level.

pat in Santa Cruz · 07-24-2010, 08:50 AM

if you replaced the wiring and socket inside the headlight bucket, I have found that the repros, being poorly made, do not ground well at the pivot point in the bulb socket assy. I straighten the socket so I am sure it will fit into the headlight reflector, then solder the pivot to insure a better ground. With repro headlight stuff, you have to look at every contact point to be certain its actually connecting. I also by pass the repro contacts. The originals work perfectly. I rewired them in my AA and they perform as designed.

palmaceae · 07-24-2010, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marco Tahtaras

Actually I think it WAS one of Ford's better ideas. Mine function flawlessly on both cars. With that said I don't think even Henry could have foreseen the low quality level of some "Gyp parts" 80 years after the fact! However without restorable original sockets (and the ability to restore them) a bypass method may indeed be the best choice.

Mine is a repo part, and it is good to know it is probably not that part. I will see if I can ground the headlight better and see how that goes.
Thanks again

Special Coupe Frank · 07-24-2010, 10:20 AM

The repros are a pale shadow of the original parts in terms of quality.

Had to fiddle with mine to get my lights to work.

I plan to dig out a pair of '30-31 headlights in the garage and "borrow" the reflectors, sockets and connectors to use in the Stainless repro lights that came with m '28.

If appearance is not critical, ground jumpers from the headlight assembly to a good ground might help.

palmaceae · 07-24-2010, 08:57 PM

I soldered a ground wire to the backside of the reflector in both lights and attached the wire to the bolts inside the lights and now they work as they should.
Thanks everyone.

shall · 10-02-2011, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

A NEW lockwasher on the headlight mounting was what fixed my headlight grounding problem many years ago.

if you take a long wire from the battery ground and touch it to the headlight focus adjusting screw and it gets brighter then you have a ground problem

Old thread, but good info Kurt. Had a dim headlight and followed your hint. Sure enough I needed to clean the ground up a bit. As old and crackly this harness is I was sure the problem was in there.

Robert · 10-03-2011, 03:06 AM

Using the rubber headlight bar to fender gaskets that all the venders sell (these are not original to the Model A) can prevent a proper ground. It happened to me.

CarlG · 10-03-2011, 09:42 AM

When I put halogen lights on my PU, I ran a separate ground wire to the frame/radiator shell just for insurance.

Glenn C. · 10-03-2011, 10:08 AM

Solder every connector on that new wiring harness. Those crimped-on bullet ends do not have a good enough electrical conductivity. Quite often when crimped connectors are installed incorrectly, wire strands are cut within the connector. Check the resistance and conductivity of each circuit, while you have the harness lying on the bench. Saves frustration later.

shall · 10-03-2011, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glenn C.

Solder every connector on that new wiring harness. Those crimped-on bullet ends do not have a good enough electrical conductivity. Quite often when crimped connectors are installed incorrectly, wire strands are cut within the connector. Check the resistance and conductivity of each circuit, while you have the harness lying on the bench. Saves frustration later.

Good info, thanks.

07-23-2010, 09:39 PM	#1
palmaceae Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 44	Next issue, headlights! Now that I have a good running "A" again with the timing perfect, the next project is working on my headlight issue. I have replaced the wiring harness in the car, and I think the problem may be in the light switch assembly. (BTW how is the best way getting that light switch assembly closed, I got it closed but it was not easy). The left headlight always works, but the right headlight works some of the time. And when it does work it is dimmer then the left (which I would assume is a short somewhere). It seems well grounded but I wonder if I should add a ground wire to the lights? But since the right light works some of the time, could it just be the light switch, are you supposed to lube the contacts with dielectric grease? Thanks, Randy __________________ 1929 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan <><

07-23-2010, 09:49 PM	#2
Bruce of MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: VA Posts: 1,412	Re: Next issue, headlights! When you say 'seems well grounded', did you measure the resistance from the shell to, say, a head nut? If it isn't very low, you should see if there is paint to scrape at the H/L mounting stud. If you can route ground wires from the shells to a good chassis ground that wouldn't hurt.

07-23-2010, 10:06 PM	#3
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Next issue, headlights! A NEW lockwasher on the headlight mounting was what fixed my headlight grounding problem many years ago. if you take a long wire from the battery ground and touch it to the headlight focus adjusting screw and it gets brighter then you have a ground problem

07-23-2010, 11:00 PM	#4
Marco Tahtaras Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 3,099	Re: Next issue, headlights! It can't be in the light switch assembly unless the new harness is really messed up. Both headlamp wires for each beam connect to the same contact on the switch plate. That means that the lead for both low beams for example are connected to the same source as if they were one. __________________ http://www.abarnyard.com/

07-23-2010, 11:23 PM	#5
Herb Concord Ca Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Concord CA Posts: 637	Re: Next issue, headlights! If your head light wiring is stock, look at the three contacts where they enter the bucket, not one of Henry's better ideas. If you don't plan to show the car, just elminate this junction and solder wires directly to each other and then put some disconnect connectors in the wires along the side of the radiator shell if you like.

07-24-2010, 07:28 AM	#7
roccaas Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Savannah, GA Posts: 1,300	Re: Next issue, headlights! Try a relay? I took the voltage out of the spider switch and moved all headlight/tailight/horn power to a relay on the firewall. Both (halogen) lamps burn at the same (very) bright level.

07-24-2010, 08:50 AM	#8
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: Next issue, headlights! if you replaced the wiring and socket inside the headlight bucket, I have found that the repros, being poorly made, do not ground well at the pivot point in the bulb socket assy. I straighten the socket so I am sure it will fit into the headlight reflector, then solder the pivot to insure a better ground. With repro headlight stuff, you have to look at every contact point to be certain its actually connecting. I also by pass the repro contacts. The originals work perfectly. I rewired them in my AA and they perform as designed.

07-24-2010, 10:20 AM	#10
Special Coupe Frank Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northeast Penna Posts: 2,108	Re: Next issue, headlights! The repros are a pale shadow of the original parts in terms of quality. Had to fiddle with mine to get my lights to work. I plan to dig out a pair of '30-31 headlights in the garage and "borrow" the reflectors, sockets and connectors to use in the Stainless repro lights that came with m '28. If appearance is not critical, ground jumpers from the headlight assembly to a good ground might help.

07-24-2010, 08:57 PM	#11
palmaceae Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NW Iowa Posts: 44	Re: Next issue, headlights! I soldered a ground wire to the backside of the reflector in both lights and attached the wire to the bolts inside the lights and now they work as they should. Thanks everyone. __________________ 1929 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan <><

10-03-2011, 03:06 AM	#13
Robert Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 99	Re: Next issue, headlights! Using the rubber headlight bar to fender gaskets that all the venders sell (these are not original to the Model A) can prevent a proper ground. It happened to me.

10-03-2011, 09:42 AM	#14
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,116	Re: Next issue, headlights! When I put halogen lights on my PU, I ran a separate ground wire to the frame/radiator shell just for insurance.

10-03-2011, 10:08 AM	#15
Glenn C. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Didsbury Alberta Posts: 838	Re: Next issue, headlights! Solder every connector on that new wiring harness. Those crimped-on bullet ends do not have a good enough electrical conductivity. Quite often when crimped connectors are installed incorrectly, wire strands are cut within the connector. Check the resistance and conductivity of each circuit, while you have the harness lying on the bench. Saves frustration later.