Flathead test stand

[Big Shark]

Does anyone have plans with measurements for a flathead engine stand? Its for my 37. Thanks Bruce

[Ol' Ron]

The best engine stand is an old tire and a few chunks of wood to prop uo the engine so it don't fall over. Don't need a radiator, won't run long-enough. If it's got oil pressure and isn't making un do sounds, put it in the car and drive it, Run stands ruin engines.

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

The best engine stand is an old tire and a few chunks of wood to prop uo the engine so it don't fall over. Don't need a radiator, won't run long-enough. If it's got oil pressure and isn't making un do sounds, put it in the car and drive it, Run stands ruin engines.

Ron,more specifics please on "ruining an engine". I have a stand and run an engine for maybe an hour total or a little more. That way I can listen for abnormal sounds, readjust the tappets if necessary and see if the carb/dist are right, etc..
Thanks
John

[Ol' Ron]

For the past 10 or more years or so we've been telling youse guys that the rings don't seat very well without a load on it and the first few minutes of run time is critical. But with a run stand you'll be running it for every Tom, Dick and Harry that want to here it.

[bobH]

I've been running engines pretty much the way Ron describes. Works good. As for 'radiator', I don't use any, just like Ron says, for a short 'blast'. If I feel the need to run a little longer, I have a setup I made out of PVC parts that connects to the inlet and outlet. I hook up a garden hose (source) to the bottom to feed it, and another hose to the top, which goes out to the yard to dump water (and keep it dry in the area where I am working). Runs are very short, and not much water is used - not even enough to water the yard. JMO and my simple way.
(and, if you really want a stand... I bought a sbc storage stand from Eastwood, on sale. It was VERY easy to make minor mods so a flathead will sit on it. I've run engines on that stand (before I gave it away with an engine.) No need for the stand.)

[1932 V8]

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Question . If you need to put a load on it in the first few minutes ,which makes perfect sense, then what about cam break in ?? On ohv engines breaking in a cam at 2000 rpm's "ish" for 20 to 30 minutes "ish" and varying the rpm's while parked was supposed to be the hot ticket . Then go out and put a load on it . Are Flatheads different because of the low spring pressure ?
Give an example of what you would do with a rebuilt Flathead engine that has not been fired and is in the car ready to drive . New rings/fresh bore/new mild cam w/55lbs spring pressure/new lifters etc etc .

Thank you

[Ronnie]

Again!!

[felix37]

I posted pictures of my 221 on a an engine run stand a few weeks ago. I actually installed mufflers on it so that I could listen for any odd noises. I first ran it without water till I felt heat on the heads, shut it down and let it cool. I then re torqued the heads and added water and ran the engine long enough to bring it up to temperature and check for oil and water leaks. I know that there is a lot of concern about glazing the cylinder walls without running a load on the engine. I wasn't as concerned as I used cast rings (The only ones EGGE offered for the 221 3 1/16 bore) and the appropriate honing of the cylinder walls for those rings. I can see a bigger concern when using modern chrome molly rings and a finer cylinder hone.