40 Ford transmission question

[19Fordy]

If you "pull" the rear end" out from under a 40 Ford car is it ok to reinstall the rebuilt transmission to the engine without reinstalling the torque tube and rear end so that you could start the car and shift it through the gears (without the rear end installed) to find out if the transmission shifts properly? The goal here is to find out if the transmission is working properly without having to install the rear end. By doing so , you wouldn't have to remove the rear a second time if something is wrong.
The car would be on jack stands during all this.

[rotorwrench]

A guy can pretty much tell if the transmission is shifting properly by just rotating the input shaft and shifting through the gears on the bench. You can pull the shift cover plate off and look at the shift forks, synchronizer rings, and gear teeth. If teeth are chipped or broken, then it's time to go further into it. I wouldn't advise putting the whole engine & trans back in if you are going to have to pull it right back out to fix something unless you just want to do a test on an overhauled unit for piece of mind. It wouldn't hurt anything just to do a test if you are confident it's good to go.

[V8COOPMAN]

Jim...I don't think your test scenario would cause any damage (WITHOUT u-joint installed), but I not convinced that you'll end-up with difinitive results, either. WITHOUT a load of any sort on the output shaft, you may create some strange or confusing results. You might do just as well by rigging some sort of "rigged" electric drill drive to the input shaft with trans on the bench. DD

[Charlie ny]

19,
I'm with rotor....the rubber needs to be on the road. The trans should shift
smoothly up and down on the bench and neutral position should NOT be vague. You
should feel a definate detachment. Do not overlook the fact that you will in all likely-
hood have rotate the input and output shafts to align the teeth.
When you pull the side cover eyeball the syncro rings....ideally there should
a gap of about .020 - .025 between the back side of the ring and syncro teeth on
3rd gear and on second gear.
Charlie ny

[scooder]

Without the UJ installed? The uj also pulls the mainshaft and rear bearing to their correct position. Don't do it. Can't do it with the uj installed but no torque tube, it'll whizz about something mental. If the trans looks good through the shift hole, and it tests ok turning n shifting by hand, it's put it in and drive it time.
In my opinion.
Martin.

[Fibber Mcgee]

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I think you need the u joint installed to pull every thing together but like everyone said that would be a bad idea. I agree that you should have a good idea of what's going on on the bench but if your really set on trying this I would get an old u joint and just use the yoke without the joint , that way you can pull every thing tight without beating your transmission up with flying metal.

[Mac VP]

He's right Hoop....since the u-joint seats against the rear ball bearing, it pulls the mainshaft back tight against the front side of the same bearing. Along with the snap ring and the rear bearing retainer, it all comes together to control the end play of the mainshaft. Any operation of the trans without these elements could give a false sense of the proper operation.

[19Fordy]

Thank you gentleman. Your info. was a huge help in deciding, "Do not do it."

[32phil]

Have some confidence in your work.....look at it this way ....if something IS wrong and you have to tear the whole thing apart to fix it .......you will never make that mistake again !!!

[19Fordy]

True, but as one matures the parts get heavier, the work gets harder, the back hurts a little more and the fun of learning by doing something twice diminishes.

[bobH]

I once agonized about pulling a rear end to change a u-joint. After procrastinating for way too long, I pulled the rear end in about 30 minutes, max. No problem.
And, IF the car has hydraulic brakes, you changed that brake hose to a longer one, at least 50 years ago. Right? (So, you don't even have to unhook the brakes.)
JMO

[G.M.]

Use half of and old U joint. G.M.

[alan]

GM, my thoughts exactly!!

[Fibber Mcgee]

Originally Posted by G.M.

Use half of and old U joint. G.M.

Didn't I say that?

[scooder]

Yep, you did. But if the trans specs out, and is good to go, the shifter arms spec out and the lockout parts are doing there job properly on the bench. As was said above "the rubber had got to be on the road" that's the real test.
Martin.

[Fibber Mcgee]

When I did mine all I did was to put the joint on while it was still on the bench and turn it by hand and made sure it shifted and then I put it in the car. Haven't had a problem yet.

[barnfind]

If my brake hoses were 50 years old I would be thinking about replacing them while I was getting dirty.
Some of them tend to turn into one way valves with age.

[scooder]

With the brake hoses, if I see one that looks covered in age, I grab the hose fold it back on itself, if I see any cracks, it gets replaced. If it's to short to do that (rear ones normally) it gets s real good looking over. If it looks iffy in any way or if I clean it and press my thumb nail in it hard, and the mark doesn't disappear as soon as I release, it's bin time for him too. Using this procedure, I have never had one leak or burst or do the one-way valve thing. Single circuit brakes, hose cost under tweny bux, or a very bent car or person, at the very least, New pants a racing heart and 10 years off your life.
Worth it?
Martin.

[19Fordy]

bob H: On a stock 40 FORD the hoses that attach to the rear wheel cylinders are steel. Did you run all new lines? Front are rubber.

[scooder]

Rear rubber one is at the front of the torque tube. You can see it in one of the pics.
Martin.