Signal light system

[dlfrisch]

Installed a new signal light system on my ‘30 coupe. Followed all the directions and the wired everything as the schematic sheet directed. Could not get it to work. Finally, after a lot of searching and asking a lot of people what and how too. My final answer to make the system work, came from communicating with Les Andrews. He was also, baffled as to why. He said, make sure the flasher is a 6V + ground. The package came from a popular “A” parts dealer and the kit had a flasher with a different number then what was on the Truck-Lite Co. direction sheet. As Les suggested, get a new or correct flasher switch. I ordered an installed the listed flasher switch 6V + Gr. from O’Rielly’s Auto Parts. The one listed and pictured on the schematic sheet. (not what came with it) and the system worked.

I have only used the signal light a few times and now it goes into a rapid (fast) flash. Turn it off and on a couple of times and it will act normal for a few seconds and then go into a rapid flash again.

I called Truck-Lite and asked what could be done with the Series 900 signal light system and they could not help…..just didn’t know any answers. I called the “A” parts dealer and they had not answer.

Does anyone have this problem? If so, what’s the answer? I would like to have my incandescent signal light bulbs work as they did or do once and awhile.

Dave

[Bob Johnson]

Rapid flash is a result of too much current going through the flasher. The bulbs you are using draw more current than the flasher was designed to handle. The flasher works by running the current through a bi-metal strip. The current heats up the strip and it bends disconnecting the circuit. Then it cools off, bends back and the lights go back on. If there is not enough current the bi0metal strip will not bend and the lights will stay on. It there is too much current the bi-metal strip heats up too fast and the light flash too fast. Is there an amperage rating on the flasher? (something like 2A)?

Bob

[700rpm]

I gave up on that system and went with Smart Signals. Wireless and completely installed and working in less than five minutes. Yes, they cost more up front. But what's your time and aggravation worth? I don't have their web address, but you can Google them.

[Patrick L.]

What watt or candle power bulbs are you using ? It sounds to me that you are using the old standard Signal-Stat 900 that has been around for a bizillion years so there shouldn't be a problem.
I can't remember off the top of my head what thermal flasher should be used, but, its hard to find a good one today and you may need to try several before you get a good one. I want to say it's a 535.
Fast flashing is the sign of insufficient resistance. [ Remember seeing cars with 'fast' flashers and notice that one of the lights is out]. Try using higher wattage/ candlepower bulbs.
By any chance are you trying to use any LEDs in the circuit ? If so, thats definitely the problem.

[CarlG]

Fast flashing is the sign of insufficient resistance.

Conversely, slow flashing is the sign of too much resistance: (ie: hooking up a trailer.)

My Signal-Stat 900 works fine with LED's in the rear and standard bulbs in the cowl lights up front.

You can also get an electronic flasher that will work with any kind of a load.

[dlfrisch]

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I have all standard tail light and cowl light bulbs (through the 900 controller) it separates the brake light circuit and works the signal light circuit. I did install (on each R and L circuit) a 6V beeper and a 6V - 6 to 8 Watt lamp. Maybe to much of a load for the 535 - 6V +Gr flasher? How do I find a flasher that will handle this added load? Where do I buy an electronic flasher? Maybe a trailer sales outfit? As CarlG, states - with my extra loads, the flasher should be acting like I hooked up a trailer or any extra load and be slowing the flash cycle down. ??????
Thanks everyone,
Dave

[Patrick L.]

I spent quite a bit of time and expense trying to find an electronic flasher that would work when I switched to rear LEDs and couldn't come up with one. If anyone knows of one that works, I'd sure like to know the number.
Even with 'normal' bulbs it took some trail and error to get the lights to flash correctly. It took higher wattage/candle power bulbs to get the flash speed correct and then had to start all over again when the LED switch was made.
If I remember correctly when using 21 or 23 CP rear turns it took 6 CP cowls to work right. The switch to LEDs it then took 10watt [? CP] cowls.
The signal-stat 900 uses a three prong flasher, 535 is for 6v if I remember correctly. As already said, it needs to be a good one.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Try this:

http://www.bulbtown.com/Automotive_Flashers_s/907.htm

EF32 is for the 2 prong
EF33 is for the 3 prong

[dlfrisch]

Tom - No 6V pos. gr.

Maybe I should get LED / double element lamps (if they make such an animal). They would draw less current. Expensive search though
Dave

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by dlfrisch

Tom - No 6V pos. gr.

Maybe I should get LED / double element lamps (if they make such an animal). They would draw less current. Expensive search though
Dave

I bought and bench tested the EF-32 and it worked fine with 6 volts positive ground and various lamp loads.

[dlfrisch]

Thanks for the reply on my flasher situation....
I called the Truck-Lite Co. The tech. lady had not idea as to what to do, except that, I mentioned that the unit bulb on the controller does not work also. She said, that could be the answer, as to why the signal lights flash rapidly - quickly on/off. They come with a 12V bulb. Put in a # 51 bulb 6V. I did and all seems to be A OK. That little 6V bulb must change the circuit wattage so the flasher modulates properly.

[Patrick L.]

Usually the 900 series is so full of grease that the indicators won't flash until cleaned. You mentioned you added extra indicators so I din't think you were worried about that.

[dlfrisch]

Hi Patrick L,
Got some time this afternoon an took a few mile course out and around town with the "A".
Dam signal lights worked erratically, on flashing then rapid flash - off an on again, they worked Ok. Then, the next time they acted up again. I think, I have a default flasher unit. My next move is to get an older 6V flasher and try again. They say, the older flashers don't have the transistor circuit that the China ones have and don't see the + Gr. , like the older ones. WHO HAS ONE ?

[Smog Tech]

Tridon LL535 Flasher works on my car. LED taillights and stock cowl lights for turn indicators.

[Patrick L.]

You might try ebay for one, they should have some NOS.

Another thing I forgot to mention, the signal stats should have a separate ground. Just run an extra wire from the column clamp to a good ground, don't rely on the mounting screws.

[1931 flamingo]

Do you have a good ground?? for the controller on the column??
If yours is mounted to the column with the typical radiator clamp run a separate ground wire from the clamp .

Paul in CT

[Del in NE Ohio]

Electronic flashers are very sensitive to RFI interference, and ancient ignition systems can produce a ton of RFI.. use add'l resistance.

[harleytoprock]

Sorry to hijack this thread but there is a lot of smart people here. I have a really wierd problem with a turn signal set up that I made on a 12v pos ground motorcycle. It's all led's, so I have a load resistor built in to the circuits on both sides front and back. When I turn on the signal the light doesn't blink for a second or so, then blinks normal for about a second or so and then blinks ridicously fast. Maybe someone smarter than me can figure what's wrong. I think Snyder's sells a flasher for a 12v led system. I was thinking of removing the load resistors and trying that flasher. What do you think? Thanks!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Harleytoprock, is there any chance this was the original desgn of your unit? Maybe it was something to help catch the attention of other drivers. Or, did this just start acting differently than it used to?

Del, my EF-32 electronic flasher only uses a relay, resistor and capacitor, so it isn't bothered by RFI, like some more sensitive transistor units might be.

[GT1929]

Originally Posted by dlfrisch

Installed a new signal light system on my ‘30 coupe. Followed all the directions and the wired everything as the schematic sheet directed. Could not get it to work. Finally, after a lot of searching and asking a lot of people what and how too. My final answer to make the system work, came from communicating with Les Andrews. He was also, baffled as to why. He said, make sure the flasher is a 6V + ground. The package came from a popular “A” parts dealer and the kit had a flasher with a different number then what was on the Truck-Lite Co. direction sheet. As Les suggested, get a new or correct flasher switch. I ordered an installed the listed flasher switch 6V + Gr. from O’Rielly’s Auto Parts. The one listed and pictured on the schematic sheet. (not what came with it) and the system worked.

I have only used the signal light a few times and now it goes into a rapid (fast) flash. Turn it off and on a couple of times and it will act normal for a few seconds and then go into a rapid flash again.

I called Truck-Lite and asked what could be done with the Series 900 signal light system and they could not help…..just didn’t know any answers. I called the “A” parts dealer and they had not answer.

Does anyone have this problem? If so, what’s the answer? I would like to have my incandescent signal light bulbs work as they did or do once and awhile.

Dave

Hello,
I had same problem with Stat 900 6 volt and small bulbs in units that go between bumber irons. I have just put a Tridon TF63 6 volt Thermal Flasher in and all blinker lights work correctly as well as all 4 for hazards. The only things is the green lights don't work on the unit when using indicators.
Cheers