The Ford Barn

mgudge · 09-30-2012, 02:42 PM

I am putting a Halibrand QC in a stock '32 frame with a Brookville roadster body, stock K member. I am using '36 bells and radius rods. I "have" and would like to use a '39 driveshaft and torque tube and will shorten it accordingly to fit. Am I safe to cut the center bearing out of the torque tube when I shorten it, about 12", I believe. Will I get driveline "whip" without the center torque tube bearing? If I leave the bearing in, what is best way to check to see if bearing is good without taking it out and possibly destroying it? I'm stuck with the bells and radius rods, just need info on the driveshaft and torque tube. Thanks, Mike

PeteVS · 09-30-2012, 06:18 PM

If your quick change is a "V8" type, not a "Model A" type AND your '32 rear is an "early" model with the round flange, be aware that there is a difference in the distance from the axle centerline to the face of the torque tube flange. Your '39 torque tube will therefore have to be cut a bit shorter than the old '32 tube is. I'll have to see what I figured that amount to be.

mgudge · 09-30-2012, 06:29 PM

Thanks for the reply. Yes, my QC is a V8 and I know I have to shorten the torque tube and drive shaft. It will have to be mocked up and the shorten length calculated. I have moved the trans and engine 5/8" forward so that has bearing also. I know I have to modify the radius rods to fit whatever I use for torque tube. My concern is the center bearing in the '39 torque tube, can I run without it or might I get a "whip" in the drive line even if it is a foot shorter than stock '39? The rest I can make work. Thanks, Mike

1931 flamingo · 09-30-2012, 06:44 PM

I'm thinking there should be enough "meat" ahead (in fron of) the bearing to modify there and use (retain) the bearing.??
Paul in CT

PeteVS · 09-30-2012, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgudge

...I have moved the trans and engine 5/8" forward so that has bearing also...

I think that the V8 banjo puts the torque tube flange about .40" ahead of the "A-early '32" banjo. You might then be sort of OK cutting the '39 torque tube to the same length as the original early '32. Are you using spacers between the transmission and the K member? I suspect you might be doing something similar to what I'm working on...

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgudge

...Am I safe to cut the center bearing out of the torque tube when I shorten it, about 12", I believe. Will I get driveline "whip" without the center torque tube bearing?

I'm not sure if the "late '32" used a solid or tubular driveshaft. I do know that whipping of the driveshaft is dependent on three factors- speed, length and diameter. Solid driveshaft was fine on the A and early '32. For the '33 with a longer wheel base, they had to go to a tubular driveshaft. I'd say (and this is a VERY humble opinion) that you'd be OK without the center bearing with a solid driveshaft. I hope some more informed people chime in with this question. Perhaps finding a length of tubing that would be a snug fit on the OD of the solid driveshaft and welded at the ends would work out.

mgudge · 09-30-2012, 08:10 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Thanks, good observation as I will be shortening the '39 torque tube and driveshaft to a lessor length than the orig '32 torque tube and driveshaft. If the shorter length worked on the Mod. A and the early '32, should work on my build, shorter yet. Anybody else got any ideas, I do appreciate the input. Mike

Teich · 09-30-2012, 08:28 PM

Why not shorten the tube at the rear, not welding in the middle, get the replacement drive shaft assy. from Speedway( front end welded onto a drive shaft tube other end you weld on) if you shorten the driveline 12" a new shaft that is straight and balanced should work fine. I think that the recommened length of a drive shaft with no center support is 60" or so, check with a shop that builds drive lines. Laurie

1932 V8 · 09-30-2012, 09:23 PM

I have a 39 style torque tube in my 32 Roadster with a 39/40 rear end,39 trans,stock frame and K members. No center support bearing and it works perfectly . I had a drive line shop in town shorten it to my required length at the rear of the torque tube where the tube size is the same dia. I also had them clock the front of the torque tube to put my speedo drive where I wanted for my 32 which is in a different spot than the 39/40 speedo drive is stock .

Human Fly · 09-30-2012, 11:28 PM

I have this exact setup in my 32 frame. i took it out from the rear of the torque tube so the centre bearing remained. I also went through the same thought pattern and thought it best to just leave it in there. The only test I did on the bearing was put the drive shaft down the torque tube and felt for and resistance or notching in the bearing and all was good.

Robert Dip · 10-01-2012, 07:38 AM

From what I have here, a '32 early rear-end/torque tube and a later '32 V8 set-up with the scalloped flange, and they measure the same. Both torques measure 53 5/16"...give or take a few hairs.

Then there is the 'thing' about not having the wheel centered at the rear on an original '32. They do look funny and do not know why this is. ( Ford screwed-up?? )
I would love to know what the off set is to correct.

On another note, leaving the original '32 rear spring and relocating the rear end to correct, I have....50 years ago now....made stepped shackels to correct mis-alignment and prevent any unwanted binding.

My findings & 2 cents................Robert

deuce_roadster · 10-01-2012, 11:51 AM

Another option is to use the tubular driveshaft, have the 10 spline coupler machined out of the end, weld in a 6 spline one. Like the torque tube, shorten it where it has no taper. Did this on mine with no problems. I don't remember the exact measurements but that 53 5/16" sounds familiar. I too am using stock K member, 39 trans and t.t. and 40 rear end.
The wheel is not in the center of the fender opening on purpose for styling. I think it looks funny if it isn't like stock.

Bruce Lancaster · 10-01-2012, 01:07 PM

To me, a oerfectly centere '32 wheel looks bad...you have a semi-crcle above not quite following the circle below and the result looks static and unmoving. Pushed forward it looks like car is dynamic, like the way motion is suggested in a cartoon. I think the forward set was a deliberate styling decision.

09-30-2012, 02:42 PM	#1
mgudge Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 9	'39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? I am putting a Halibrand QC in a stock '32 frame with a Brookville roadster body, stock K member. I am using '36 bells and radius rods. I "have" and would like to use a '39 driveshaft and torque tube and will shorten it accordingly to fit. Am I safe to cut the center bearing out of the torque tube when I shorten it, about 12", I believe. Will I get driveline "whip" without the center torque tube bearing? If I leave the bearing in, what is best way to check to see if bearing is good without taking it out and possibly destroying it? I'm stuck with the bells and radius rods, just need info on the driveshaft and torque tube. Thanks, Mike

09-30-2012, 06:18 PM	#2
PeteVS Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: FP, NJ Posts: 2,770	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? If your quick change is a "V8" type, not a "Model A" type AND your '32 rear is an "early" model with the round flange, be aware that there is a difference in the distance from the axle centerline to the face of the torque tube flange. Your '39 torque tube will therefore have to be cut a bit shorter than the old '32 tube is. I'll have to see what I figured that amount to be. __________________ Don't never get rid of nuthin!

09-30-2012, 06:29 PM	#3
mgudge Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 9	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? Thanks for the reply. Yes, my QC is a V8 and I know I have to shorten the torque tube and drive shaft. It will have to be mocked up and the shorten length calculated. I have moved the trans and engine 5/8" forward so that has bearing also. I know I have to modify the radius rods to fit whatever I use for torque tube. My concern is the center bearing in the '39 torque tube, can I run without it or might I get a "whip" in the drive line even if it is a foot shorter than stock '39? The rest I can make work. Thanks, Mike

09-30-2012, 06:44 PM	#4
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? I'm thinking there should be enough "meat" ahead (in fron of) the bearing to modify there and use (retain) the bearing.?? Paul in CT

09-30-2012, 08:10 PM	#6
mgudge Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 9	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks, good observation as I will be shortening the '39 torque tube and driveshaft to a lessor length than the orig '32 torque tube and driveshaft. If the shorter length worked on the Mod. A and the early '32, should work on my build, shorter yet. Anybody else got any ideas, I do appreciate the input. Mike

09-30-2012, 08:28 PM	#7
Teich Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brandon Mb Canada Posts: 133	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? Why not shorten the tube at the rear, not welding in the middle, get the replacement drive shaft assy. from Speedway( front end welded onto a drive shaft tube other end you weld on) if you shorten the driveline 12" a new shaft that is straight and balanced should work fine. I think that the recommened length of a drive shaft with no center support is 60" or so, check with a shop that builds drive lines. Laurie

09-30-2012, 09:23 PM	#8
1932 V8 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Windsor California Posts: 492	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? I have a 39 style torque tube in my 32 Roadster with a 39/40 rear end,39 trans,stock frame and K members. No center support bearing and it works perfectly . I had a drive line shop in town shorten it to my required length at the rear of the torque tube where the tube size is the same dia. I also had them clock the front of the torque tube to put my speedo drive where I wanted for my 32 which is in a different spot than the 39/40 speedo drive is stock .

09-30-2012, 11:28 PM	#9
Human Fly Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 59	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? I have this exact setup in my 32 frame. i took it out from the rear of the torque tube so the centre bearing remained. I also went through the same thought pattern and thought it best to just leave it in there. The only test I did on the bearing was put the drive shaft down the torque tube and felt for and resistance or notching in the bearing and all was good.

10-01-2012, 07:38 AM	#10
Robert Dip Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Candiac, Qc. Posts: 483	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? From what I have here, a '32 early rear-end/torque tube and a later '32 V8 set-up with the scalloped flange, and they measure the same. Both torques measure 53 5/16"...give or take a few hairs. Then there is the 'thing' about not having the wheel centered at the rear on an original '32. They do look funny and do not know why this is. ( Ford screwed-up?? ) I would love to know what the off set is to correct. On another note, leaving the original '32 rear spring and relocating the rear end to correct, I have....50 years ago now....made stepped shackels to correct mis-alignment and prevent any unwanted binding. My findings & 2 cents................Robert

10-01-2012, 11:51 AM	#11
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? Another option is to use the tubular driveshaft, have the 10 spline coupler machined out of the end, weld in a 6 spline one. Like the torque tube, shorten it where it has no taper. Did this on mine with no problems. I don't remember the exact measurements but that 53 5/16" sounds familiar. I too am using stock K member, 39 trans and t.t. and 40 rear end. The wheel is not in the center of the fender opening on purpose for styling. I think it looks funny if it isn't like stock.

10-01-2012, 01:07 PM	#12
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: '39 Torque Tube to QC in '32 Rdstr? To me, a oerfectly centere '32 wheel looks bad...you have a semi-crcle above not quite following the circle below and the result looks static and unmoving. Pushed forward it looks like car is dynamic, like the way motion is suggested in a cartoon. I think the forward set was a deliberate styling decision.