1936 rear in a 32 chassis

[RB]

1936 rear in a 32 chassis........Realizing the 1936 rear uses a straight spring & the hangers are longer & incorporated in the radius rods, how near or far will the closed drive mate up to the transmission & the wheel body reveal center line ? Is there a spring that will permit the use of 36 rear radius rods as a bolt in ? I'm using the original 32 rear crossmember & 'k' member. Thanks

[Human Fly]

Not even close!
I think you could use the 32-34 spring with the 36 rear end, but you will have to shorten the torque tube and drive shaft........and pie cut the radius rods at the rear end mount as well as shorten them to mate with the original mounting boss on the torque tube.

[Krylon32]

I have a roller 32 gennie chassis that came with a 36 rear installed using the straight 36 spring ground to fit the curved 32 crossmember. The wishbones run right up to the back of the K member and the torque tube must be sticking thru the K about 16/20 inchs. Lots of shortening needed. It appears that the rear wheels will be forward of wheelwell center about 3/4 of an inch.

[PeteVS]

I put a '48 rear into a '32 frame, including the '48 rear spring. I ground gentle "notches" in the leaves to get them to fit up in the rear crossmember. If you do this, go slow with the grinding and really smooth out the edges, radius them nicely like they were before hand and really clean them up nice and smooth. I have to find a picture I made of a modified leaf.

Here's the picture...

Also, keep in mind that the '36 banjo casting torque tube flange is about 0.42" further in front of the axle centerline than the '32 banjo casting. This means that when you shorten the '36 torque tube, it must be .42" SHORTER than the '32 torque tube. Furthermore, when you shorten the torque tube, try to keep the speedo connection in the same orientation as the '32.

[PeteVS]

Regarding the radius rods: You might want to pick up a set of the shorter '46 to '48 radius rods. Other wise, you'll most likely have to shorten the '36 rods?? (Are the spring hangers on the radius rods on a '36? If so, you might be better off keeping them.)

[jimTN]

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Curved spring will not work with 36 housings because the spring hangers are "canted. If you can get a 32-4 rear end, make a angle iron jig that will bolt across to each spring hanger then cut the early spring hangers off at the housings. Then weld them to inside of the springhangers on the later housings. Of course measure center of banjo to spring hangers on early rear end go get exact placement on late housings. This will put the rear end where it belongs and allow use of the early spring like it was made for.

[Andy]

I have drawings for bolt on spring hangers for later rears in 32's and using the original spring. I would not use the 36 bones. Just make some bones that will bolt onto the 36 bone mounts.

[Ralph Moore]

I put a 37 rear in my 32 frame and for me it was easier just to change out the rear crossmember to a 37-40 type, flattened out for rear stance, and cut the torque tube/radius rods as mentioned.

[HOTROD_WILLIE]

1936 rear in a 1934 Ford frame. Use the original spring and cut to fit the rear support. You will have the drive shaft and torque tube cut. The wish bone have to work on also. The work is worth it.

[RB]

Thanks to all responding, still working on an original 32 chassis as a traditional build & have several rear options & components available as mentioned, including a 10 bolt halibrand 'A' OR 'T' springs & crossmembers. Just need to sort it all out as to how much to modify from original

[Harms Way]

I have used 1935/36 rear wishbones on several 1932 Ford frames to mount late model rear axles,.... And have shortened up 1940 rear ends to fit as well.

The trick on the 35/36 bones with the built in hangers,.. I try to use a 1940 front spring which is a little narrower, then cut off the corresponding amount off the shackle mount portion of the wishbone where the shackle bolt goes through the mounts (to make it narrower). The front spring will fit into the rear crossmember unaltered,..
BUT !,.. you'll want to unpack a number of the leafs. (every other one). I have owned and seen a number of cars done this way through the years.

In the Vern Tardel Book on traditional Ford Hot Rods,.. there is a great article on shortening up a torque tube and driveshaft on a 40' rear end to work in a 1932 Ford frame,.. using a 1934 Ford tubular drive shaft and Ford made "Spline Adapter".

This roadster has a chassis that was originally built in the early 50's with a shortened 40' torque tube and a re ground rear spring.



This Coupe on a 32 Frame, has the 36' rear wishbones with a 9" rear axle, and a 40' Merc. front spring,... I did however make a flat crossmember for it to get the rear end down.

(Alright I know somebody will ask, so,.... the two pieces of tubing making a "X" in the back was a temporary brace, that is gone now,... The other piece of 1" square tubing,.. going across the frame, was just a place to lay it until I put it back in the rack )



OK,... I know it's an "A" Bone body,... But it's a Deuce frame.

[Kahuna]

I have a 36 rear in a 32 frame. The wheel well alignment is good and very well centered in the fender opening. Most original 32's had the rear wheels a bit forward of the wheel well/fender center. I used the original 36 spring, after removing 2 leaves, and grinding the forward edges of the rest to fit. Mine has been converted to open drive, but still using the shortened 36 radius rods. Seems ok
Jim

[Harms Way]

In 1968 I found this Deuce 5/W,.. It had a 331 Caddy, 39 Trans and 40' rear,.. I later replaced it with a chromed 40' rear.




This 3/W also used the 36 bones with the 40 front spring.

[ken1939]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

I have a 36 rear in a 32 frame. The wheel well alignment is good and very well centered in the fender opening. Most original 32's had the rear wheels a bit forward of the wheel well/fender center. I used the original 36 spring, after removing 2 leaves, and grinding the forward edges of the rest to fit. Mine has been converted to open drive, but still using the shortened 36 radius rods. Seems ok
Jim

What engine and trans were you using for the open drive?

[Kahuna]

Ken1939
I am using a flathead and Ford 4 speed (Jeep conversion)

[HotRodmicky]

Originally Posted by Harms Way

I have used 1935/36 rear wishbones on several 1932 Ford frames to mount late model rear axles,.... And have shortened up 1940 rear ends to fit as well.

The trick on the 35/36 bones with the built in hangers,.. I try to use a 1940 front spring which is a little narrower, then cut off the corresponding amount off the shackle mount portion of the wishbone where the shackle bolt goes through the mounts (to make it narrower). The front spring will fit into the rear crossmember unaltered,..
BUT !,.. you'll want to unpack a number of the leafs. (every other one). I have owned and seen a number of cars done this way through the years.

Could you explain that a little better?
The 35-40 front spring is a lot narrower (eye to eye) than a 35-40 rear
How do you you modify the 35-36 rear bones to make naoorw enough to fit the spring?

TIA
Michael

[Harms Way]

Originally Posted by HotRodmicky

Could you explain that a little better?
The 35-40 front spring is a lot narrower (eye to eye) than a 35-40 rear
How do you you modify the 35-36 rear bones to make narrow enough to fit the spring?

TIA
Michael

If memory serves me right,.....

The unsprung eye to eye centers on a stock 32-34 rear spring (as well as 1935/36) is 46-1/2", The same eye to eye dimension on a 1935-40 front spring is 42-1/2" However it has a higher arch, and more of a spring pack,..

Eye to eye is the improper way to measure a spring,... It actually takes into account the Arch along with the center hole to eye dimensions. I cant remember what the proper formula is for figuring this out at the moment. but when I find it, I will post it,....

Unpacked,.... With the main leaf mounted alone, it spans the additional 2" per side fine (because of the higher arch),... then unpack every other leaf,... And repack the spring with the main leaf still mounted to the shackles & spring perch. ( I can post the process that I use for this as well,.. if anybody is interested)

(* I usually mount late model axles with this method,.. and more often than not move the mounting brackets inboard 1 1/2" per side from stock. But when you do this,.. the front mounting position of the wishbones, the shackle mount barrels being 90 degrees to the rear axle, and of course pinion angle are critically important.... *)

Also, I will try to post better pictures of this set up, and how to do it,... just have to remember to take a camera to the shop when I am doing this,....

This is all stuff I learned form a couple old hot rod guys decades ago,......

[Del Clark]

I put a 33-34 rear crossmember in my deuce frame in the 32 location and used a 40 spring and 36 wishbones....spent quite sometime grinding the spring so it fits in the crossmember...The wheelbase was right on!

[PeteVS]

Originally Posted by Del Clark

I put a 33-34 rear crossmember in my deuce frame in the 32 location and used a 40 spring and 36 wishbones....spent quite sometime grinding the spring so it fits in the crossmember...The wheelbase was right on!

What's the difference between '32 and '33-'34 rear crossmembers?

The wheelbase thing is one of the things Henry got right. Curved spring with '32 through '34 rear end gives same axle location as straight spring with the later rears.

[Harms Way]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

What's the difference between '32 and '33-'34 rear crossmembers?

The wheelbase thing is one of the things Henry got right. Curved spring with '32 through '34 rear end gives same axle location as straight spring with the later rears.

The height on a 33/34 rear crossmember is shorter, so it lowers the rear end of the car. I am assuming this is why he changed it,...

You can also flatten out a 35-40 rear crossmember to lower the rear of a Deuce.