Putting Drums back on

[Kube]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

Jason You don't have stock drums.

You never want to listen to a crop duster,a college drop out that can copy useless info.
When you follow what i have posted you will end your problem.
I can see the level of knowledge on this Ford barn is lacking with 3000 hits.
Its hard to understand that what MACS sells is what you need.
In your country do you have a mechnic that can help you with this problem.

Since when did Texas become a country?
And, what is a "mechnic"?

[Lawson Cox]

Now Kube. Be nice.

[George/Maine]

How about you so called experts. ford barn has spell check word pad doesn't
If all is good and find nothing wrong ,just little things like key ways, grease, burrs, etc..
What do you think " could this rear end be out of a 1940"
If it were true your backing plates would be in farther.
Say 1940 with 47 axles.

[em1davis]

So what I've gathered as of now is that I should probably go ahead and get 2 new sets of drums & hubs. Using the 3 prong puller on both sides has probably set me up for failure here.

I'll try to get all the pictures done tomorrow.

Thanks
Jason

[em1davis]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

How about you so called experts. ford barn has spell check word pad doesn't
If all is good and find nothing wrong ,just little things like key ways, grease, burrs, etc..
What do you think " could this rear end be out of a 1940"
If it were true your backing plates would be in farther.
Say 1940 with 47 axles.

If it had an early V8 my grandfather restored it, so who know what parts he used.

[George/Maine]

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Jason On post 59 I took the time to measure from bolt surface in center out to backing plate. I used a carpenters folding rule a yard stick will do.
You used a centimeter scale across the hub, would you use and inch scale.
If you lay the drum down hole up ,
if it measure's 4" IT will drop in hole on drum.
That means you need a 4" hole drum.
If 3 1/4 hub it slides on like it fell off.
All so are both hubs the same?
I guess you have one good drum.
no key ,no bearing put good drum and best hub on both sides and see if same problem.

[Mart]

Jason, your hubs are probably fine. You have damaged the drums, though, unfortunately. There's an outside chance that you could straighten the part that is bent (the area around the stud holes on the flat (Well it was flat) part.) But getting that straight enough that the drum surface will run true is (I would guess) almost impossible.

So, first you might want to try that, but I'm thinking it would probably be best to order some new drums. Now here starts another problem. Fitting the new drums to the hubs isn't exactly easy. I have not done it myself, so can't advise, (others should be able to).

What might be a better suggestion, would be to get hold of some good serviceable rear drum/hub assemblies. These can be 40-48, with inside or outside hubs.

Your hubs are the inside type hubs. If you decide to get new drums, make sure you get the type that suits the inside type hub. Fitting them involves removing the old studs, which should not be just pressed out, and fitting with new studs, and swedging the studs, although I think new drums may be supplied with studs that do not need swedging, This is where I am a bit shaky and you must seek expert advice.

Everybody on this thread has tried to help. Let's respect that and please not start name calling.

It sounds really clever when you write the comments, but when other people read them, they come cross as petty and childish and just diminish what should be an interesting and informative forum.

We're still all friends, right??

Mart.

[em1davis]

Sorry for taking so long but I'm back. I have some calipers and some more pictures.
I know I have a couple of different problems.
1) Bent drum (not separated)
- Need a new drum and bolts to hold to hub
2) A drum separated from the wheel hub (drum is nice and flat no apparent damage)
- bolts to put drums back on
3) an issue getting the wheel hub all the way back on the axle both hubs and axles have problems no matter the hub or axle combination.
- Should I polish the axle and inside the hub to ensure

You can see in the attached photos that when I try to put the wheel hub back on with:
No Key,
No bearing,
No Brake parts,
No Grease seal
That the wheel hub does not go all the way onto the axle. I put the hub on then wrapped the threads in Teflon tape, and pulled the hub back off. As you can see there are several threads that don't get exposed. Is this normal?

Thanks
Jason

[Mart]

Why are you saying it isn't all the way on? There is a washer about .125 thick, then the nut. the holes in the axle should align with the slots in the nut. How does it look with the washer and nut in place?

Hard to tell from here, but that looks all the way on to me. I can't tell what you are trying to show with the teflon tape. If you had the correct washer and put the nut on, it would have gone further up that tape. (unless the angle the pic is taken is deceiving).

Mart.

[em1davis]

Originally Posted by Mart

Why are you saying it isn't all the way on? There is a washer about .125 thick, then the nut. the holes in the axle should align with the slots in the nut. How does it look with the washer and nut in place?

Hard to tell from here, but that looks all the way on to me. I can't tell what you are trying to show with the teflon tape. If you had the correct washer and put the nut on, it would have gone further up that tape. (unless the angle the pic is taken is deceiving).

Mart.

My concern is that the hub isn't far enough up the axle. Is it normal for the hub to prevent the last few threads from being exposed?
If I take the hub that is separated from the unbent drum and put it on then try to just put the drum on it doesn't cover the backing plate either. (I guess this could just be caused by the fact it is separated from the hub).
The tap shows all the threads that I can use and where the hub sits in relation to the threads.

Jason

[George/Maine]

Take just the hub and push it on almost to end 1/4",
now cut a piece of paper 1/4 wide 2" long.
Now listen carful put the paper 1" in.
Now push in hub as hard as you can and see if the paper can be removed. Got IT.
Take the nut and washer and tighten.
This is what it should look like. about 1/8 thread out at end.

[jrhaelig]

I wonder if these drums might be what you need. Looks like 4 for $100
http://forums.aaca.org/f119/42-48-fo...ck-381373.html

[rich b]

Originally Posted by jrhaelig

I wonder if these drums might be what you need. Looks like 4 for $100
http://forums.aaca.org/f119/42-48-fo...ck-381373.html

Did you notice one of those "42-48 drums" is an earlier wire wheel hub/drum.

[1931 flamingo]

Wow ! 5 pages. I've read most of them. Has he mentioned where he is?? Maybe somebody nearby could swing by??

Paul in CT

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by em1davis

Any other thoughts.

Or anybody in the Austin, TX area want to swing by in the near future.

Thanks
Jason

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Wow ! 5 pages. I've read most of them. Has he mentioned where he is?? Maybe somebody nearby could swing by??

Paul in CT

Mentioned more than once......Austin, Texas area. DD

[George/Maine]

I think there must be a mix of parts. You have tried with no success.
You need a new drum and I think you should get a new hub.
You can use your old bearing and seal need a snap ring.
Order one side if it works ok order the other side.
You have to do something.
01A-1105
Rear Brake Drum Hub
For use with 21A-1125-L brake drum.
Requires 68-1225 bearing,
78-1175 seal,
78-1180 snap ring.
Drum will slide over hub. Pressing is not required.
40-48 Passenger
21A-1125-L
Front Brake Drum
Says Front but this fits hub up top.
CG Fordparts.com
877-441-2400 760-740-2400

[JSeery]

Didn't all of these parts fit fine before it was taken apart? Why would there be a mixture of parts?

[em1davis]

I thought I had posted earlier but I think I'm going for a new drum method and I have access to a few I need to know if what I'm looking at will work. For a 47 sedan.
Sorry I'm on my phone so I have to link to images in Google plus
https://plus.google.com/112774154315...ts/h4E8cbThoHG
https://plus.google.com/112774154315...ts/h4E8cbThoHG

[Andy]

The early Ford drums were 12.00 " new and the wear limit is 12.060. You can only wear off .030 material untill theye are supposed to be done. I have seen a lot turned to 12.120 or twice the wear limit. I would be very hessitant to buy any drums without measureing them myself. You get a lot of meaningless phrases like "lots of meat left". There was very little to start with.
A friend bought a set of new replacement drums somewere. They were so out of round and misscast he could not use them. I had a spare set at the time and he got those.
I have never had contact with Richard Lacy of the Early V8 Shop but would buy from him for new drums.
A buyable set of usable old drums is totally extinct.
Buy new from a reptable known source.
Best of luck.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Kube

Since when did Texas become a country?...

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Republic of Texas (Spanish: República de Texas) was an independent sovereign nation in North America that existed from March 2, 1836, to February 19, 1846.