Broken bolts

[Mike Mayer]

I just started taking an 8ba apart. This block only has the Crank pistons and the valve train. As I started working on it I found two broken head bolts and six broken ex. manifold bolts. Please advise

[Seth Swoboda]

If you plan on taking this block to a machinist for work they will remove them easily.

[tubman]

Do you have a welder? If so, there are many threads about this. If you don't Seth has the right idea. I would strongly suggest not using EZ-outs, etc.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by Mike Mayer

I just started taking an 8ba apart. This block only has the Crank pistons and the valve train. As I started working on it I found two broken head bolts and six broken ex. manifold bolts. Please advise

My advice is to include your general location in your profile in case someone has a shop that is good at removing broken bolts. Also Seth's idea is excellent. If your machine shop doesn't want to do it ask them for a recommendation.

Charlie Stephens

[Andy]

I posted this over on the HAMB.

The method I have used is to weld a washer over the bolt and then a nut on top. It usually takes two trys ea for me. It may be the heat treat of the bolt. It has always worked.Do not get in a hurry. Gentle back and forth is the way to go.
.
I saw something on wax to loosen rusted bolts and desided to try it. I had a column drop and the pinch bolt was so rusted you could not see the threads where they were exposed. I heated the area a couple of time and just for curiosity, melted some wax everywhere it could get to the bolt. It sat overnight. The next morning I built up the head if the bolt and welded a washer and nut to it. I put Vice Grips on the nut and was prepared for a lot of heating and wiggling. The vice grips swung around. The bolt was not even finger tight. Completely loose. The threads in the drop and the bolt are fine. I am amazed.

[Mike Mayer]

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Thank you all I will try some of these Ideas and if all else fails I will go to the machine shop. Again I Thank You Semper Fi

[40cpe]

Be warned about "some" machine shops removing the broken bolts. I asked the machine shop to remove two for me because they were doing the machine work anyway. Instead of removing the broken ends they drilled them out and used helicoils to replace the threads. That caused me lots of grief. If you use a shop, be specific about what you expect.

[Mike Mayer]

thank you for that tip

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Be warned about "some" machine shops removing the broken bolts. I asked the machine shop to remove two for me because they were doing the machine work anyway. Instead of removing the broken ends they drilled them out and used helicoils to replace the threads. That caused me lots of grief. If you use a shop, be specific about what you expect.

What was the grief with the heli coils?

R

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by Ronnie

What was the grief with the heli coils?

R

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208068

[flatheadmurre]

Takes more time to remove it then install a helicoil usually so when they try and save you some money...a helicoil or thread insert should work fine if done right.

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre

Takes more time to remove it then install a helicoil usually so when they try and save you some money...a helicoil or thread insert should work fine if done right.

Yup x 2 1000's are used on aircraft engines as they do have a mil spec rating.
Both will work well when installed correctly.

R

[Andy]

I would have more confidence in Helicoils installed in holes with stripped threads. Drilling out a broken bolt and getting the hole centered and straight is harder. I would worry that the stud would be angled or off center.

[Jack E/NJ]

Nah. Us farmers have more confidence in 3/8-16 stud. Drill the broken bolt with a 5/16" bit as straight/centered as you can. Then tap the hole for the aforementioned stud as straight as you can. Jack E/NJ

[Marv]

Originally Posted by Mike Mayer

Thank you all I will try some of these Ideas and if all else fails I will go to the machine shop. Again I Thank You Semper Fi

Mike I have used the welding washer and nut idea for years. One tip, after welding let it cool down some and put your favorite penetrating oil on them and the should come right out. I like a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and Acetone for penetrating oil.

[zzlegend]

Mike, here is a page from the Ford Garage. As Andy mentioned above. I have never had to remove one, but if I did, I would try this first. I have heard a few guys have done it and it worked well. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with it.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

[Mike Mayer]

Thank you for all the info I am going to fire up my mig welder and mix up some penetrating oil.. Semper Fi MIke

[Ronnie]

No need for penetrating oil just quench the weld after with a candle and wait till the weld has cooled off that you can touch it.Depending on your skill set the first attempt may not get it,but don't be discouraged as it works very well.I have removed too many to count from 6/32" up to 3/4" with no problems,but I use a tig that gives much more heat control with a foot pedal as well letting you dwell on the weld for a long time to let the heat penetrate.

R

[vilanar]

Welding a washer and then a nut +adding candle will do the trick , just like above mentioned. Done that hundreds of times one different situations.

[Vics Stuff]

X2 like vilnar. Done it several times and amazingly how well it works.

Originally Posted by vilanar

Welding a washer and then a nut +adding candle will do the trick , just like above mentioned. Done that hundreds of times one different situations.

[40fordpu]

Wow. Washer and Nut! Really? Where have you been my whole life? I have been missing out HAHA.

[Mike Mayer]

Thank you all what a great bunch of people you are . MIke

[allout]

Originally Posted by Andy

I posted this over on the HAMB.

The method I have used is to weld a washer over the bolt and then a nut on top. It usually takes two trys ea for me. It may be the heat treat of the bolt. It has always worked.Do not get in a hurry. Gentle back and forth is the way to go.
.
I saw something on wax to loosen rusted bolts and desided to try it. I had a column drop and the pinch bolt was so rusted you could not see the threads where they were exposed. I heated the area a couple of time and just for curiosity, melted some wax everywhere it could get to the bolt. It sat overnight. The next morning I built up the head if the bolt and welded a washer and nut to it. I put Vice Grips on the nut and was prepared for a lot of heating and wiggling. The vice grips swung around. The bolt was not even finger tight. Completely loose. The threads in the drop and the bolt are fine. I am amazed.

I am so glad that this thread came up. I followed this post, except for the wax, and it worked perfectly on a broken exhaust bolt. Thank you for this.
Cheers

[mushroom5]

I had one a while back in a 99a where someone had drilled out the broken stud and then re-tapped it but it wasn't in straight!!, ended using an old head as a guide, by drilling the stud hole to the helicoil tapping size, bolting it on and using it as a guide