The Ford Barn

silverfoxracing · 10-02-2022, 06:26 AM

I will start by saying I know little on side valve ford engines. I am getting my late fathers 46 ford ute with what I believe is a 59A engine in it. It has the ford oil filter setup on the side of the motor. A line from the back of the block into the filter then a drain line to the sump. The filter top is causing me grief in I cannot get it to seal, Keeps pissing oil out. Even with a new seal. Seems like there is to much pressure and forcing it out the lid as it cannot drain fast enough. My plan is to delete this oil filter, Yes I know its prob not a good idea, but a bit of research tells me a lot are running around with out a filter. My question is, Can I just put a bung in the back of the block to block it off? or is there an issue with doing this as it comes from the oil pump I assume? Car does very little work, prob 200miles a year, cheers

Kube · 10-02-2022, 08:07 AM

You will find differing opinions, as you'd suggested, as to whether or not you "need" the filter. I, for one, don't believe they do enough to warrant their necessity.
You may remove the entire filter assembly. And yes, a simply plug at the back of the block will do the trick.
Don't forget to plug the return boss as well. On your '46, that should be directly next to the dip stick tube at the oil pan.
Oil filters were optional until early 1946. That fact may help ease your mind...

marko39 · 10-02-2022, 08:10 AM

Yes you can delete the filter by installing a plug but if it were me I would try to fix the leak first. Thousands of these are in use that don’t leak so something is not right. Check to see if there is a restrictor fitting on inlet which reduces the pressure in the canister. It should have a .060 hole in it.

Kube · 10-02-2022, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marko39

Yes you can delete the filter by installing a plug but if it were me I would try to fix the leak first. Thousands of these are in use that don’t leak so something is not right. Check to see if there is a restrictor fitting on inlet which reduces the pressure in the canister. It should have a .060 hole in it.

The .060 restrictor increases the pressure.

deuce_roadster · 10-02-2022, 09:48 AM

I don't remember what the restrictor hole diameter was but it is less then .060. If the car is driven relatively few mile/year just change the oil each spring before you fire it up for the season. As Kube said, before 1946 they were optional.
If there is no inlet restrictor, I believe it would be difficult to seal the top with the volume entering the filter. If your car is going to be judged, remember any optional equipment can only lose you points.

Kube · 10-02-2022, 10:00 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by deuce_roadster

I don't remember what the restrictor hole diameter was but it is less then .060. If the car is driven relatively few mile/year just change the oil each spring before you fire it up for the season. As Kube said, before 1946 they were optional.
If there is no inlet restrictor, I believe it would be difficult to seal the top with the volume entering the filter. If your car is going to be judged, remember any optional equipment can only lose you points.

You and I are on the same proverbial page. With today's oils and fuels, contamination is not as much of a concern as it was in '46. Keep it clean and the engine will remain "happy".

The restrictor specification was .058" - .063".

I'm not certain what the primary reason was for that restrictor fitting. However, without it in place, the oil pressure will drop significantly.

19Fordy · 10-02-2022, 10:15 AM

Silverfoxracing: I wonder if the nut on top of the oil filter cover has been over tightened too many times causing the top to deform so that the sealing lip of the top doesn't literally "seal' against the top edge of the filter canister? Set the lid on a sheet of glass to see if it contacts the glass surface fully.

ford38v8 · 10-02-2022, 11:20 AM

As stated previously, you will get opposing opinions on this subject. Here's mine:

Today's oil being superior to oil back in the day is exactly the reason that an oil filter is needed today, as impurities are suspended in detergent oil, as opposed to settling out to sludge overnight with non-detergent oil. The impurities must now circulate until either removed by a filter, or drained for an oil change.

A bypass filter as you have on your engine, if properly set up, will filter all oil in 20 minutes at cruise speed. A full flow filter as used on modern engines, will pass larger particles than a bypass filter, and will dump unfiltered oil if pressures exceed the preset. For these reasons, your filter should not be removed.

The restrictor in a bypass filter is .60' and its placement on the inlet side is important. Pressure within the filter is greatly reduced by correct restrictor placement. Your filter may have been modified with a larger restrictor, or was incorrectly installed on the return line of the filter. You may also check for an accidental restriction caused by a crushed return line from the filter back to the engine. Also, the working engine oil pressure is directly affected by the size and location of the restrictor on the bypass side of the oil flow.

Every engine should have a relief valve in the block, to prevent over-pressurizing the system. If yours is malfunctioning or has been removed, or is mismatched to a replacement oil pump, this may also be a factor in your non-sealing oil filter.

Oil filters generally come with two different sized gaskets, to fit different brands of filters. They do not usually include the center hold down bolt gasket, which is easily made from soft copper by the user. Both gaskets are needed.

Dick · 10-02-2022, 11:22 AM

I had to deal with this recently and found it to be the gasket.
After trying several that didn't work the one that came with a Napa gold 1006 filter fit. It's wider and will "snap" into place in the lid and will stay in place when placing the cap into position.
What a mess to clean up!

69a · 10-02-2022, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kube

The .060 restrictor increases the pressure.

How does a restrictor, correctly fitted on the inlet side of the filter, increase the pressure? We are talking about possible excess pressure on the filter top as per OP's original post.

joe 1950 · 10-02-2022, 12:38 PM

First check the filter to make sure it’s the right one for the canister does it sit to high and like was said maybe the cover is bent then try putting 2 gaskets in and see what happens good luck

cadillac512 · 10-02-2022, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69a

How does a restrictor, correctly fitted on the inlet side of the filter, increase the pressure? We are talking about possible excess pressure on the filter top as per OP's original post.

The restrictor properly placed in the inlet side of the filter canister will lower the pressure in the can. It will raise the pressure to the engine and the oil gauge because less oil will flow through the filter and more will be supplied to the engine oiling system.

Terry

tubman · 10-02-2022, 01:06 PM

I am in the camp of those favoring the bypass filters as used by Ford. The way these cars are driven and maintained these days, the finer filtration they provide can only be of a benefit. Also, the paper element will absorb excess water that may find it's way into the system. As to lowering the pressure inside the filter. There is one .060" restriction on the input, but there are two on the output on the standpipe. Make sure those are clear.

Kube · 10-02-2022, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69a

How does a restrictor, correctly fitted on the inlet side of the filter, increase the pressure? We are talking about possible excess pressure on the filter top as per OP's original post.

Perhaps I shouldn't have side "increase". Rather, I should have said "maintains".
Anyone that has installed one of these filters without a restrictor had found all too soon, that the oil pressure had dropped, sometimes quite radically.

The original poster most likely has an issue with the gasket seating properly. I highly doubt there is any pressure issue at all.

51 MERC-CT · 10-02-2022, 06:18 PM

If any of the hole/s in the center stand pipe or the oil return tube are plugged, excess pressure within the canister can cause the cover to leak.

aussie merc · 10-02-2022, 07:37 PM

check the return any restriction [kink etc] will restrict flow and cause pressure to rise then comes the dreaded leak .Something as simple as the return having been overtighten at some time can crush the pipe and restrict the flow back to the engine . Basically the filter needs to be able to get rid of the oil faster than it receives it hence the restrictor in the inlet

silverfoxracing · 10-03-2022, 03:42 AM

cheers for all the reply's. There is defiantly to much pressure in the canister. With the engine running I could see it forcing itself out from under the lid. Actually was bubbling out in one spot!! I realize there will always be pressure in there but it seemed excessive. Maybe no restrictor in there. On the pump side down the back of the block, there was an elbow fitting, but could not see a restrictor in there. will block it all off for now, and then pull the canister apart and check in there for one. Need to get it off the hoist so I can fix the sump plug in my Mustang!! sick of oil issues!! lol

RKS.PA · 10-03-2022, 07:10 AM

I've had a similar filter leaking problem and I know my "plumbing" is correct. The gasket that comes with the 59004 Wix filter element does not seal my lid. Believe in my case, it's too narrow, so found one that was wider and keep using it during filter changes.

Next time will try the Napa 1006 to see if it's wider!!

Gene1949 · 10-03-2022, 08:38 AM

Some on this board have made the claim; “with modern oils yearly oil changes make a filter unnecessary”.

I’d like to point out whatever products of combustion (and wear particles) that find their way into the oil modern oils keep those impurities “in suspension”.

Our old bypass filters remove those contaminates. Some don’t drive their cars all that much, but those acids and wear particles are still working their destructive magic.

Mart · 10-03-2022, 09:52 AM

My experience is that the gasket in the lid supplied with the modern filters is not as good as the old rubber gaskets that were used. I have used the filters successfully but had to reuse the old gasket. I also have a restrictor on the inlet side. That is on two of my motors.
On the others I do not run a filter and do not give it a moments thought.
Bottom line: If you can stop it leaking, run the filter. If you can't, plug the supply hole in the block and either remove it and plug the return hole or just leave it in place for looks. If a new or decent gasket shows up you can always easily give it another go.

Mart.

10-02-2022, 06:26 AM	#1
silverfoxracing Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2022 Posts: 3	oil filter delete?? I will start by saying I know little on side valve ford engines. I am getting my late fathers 46 ford ute with what I believe is a 59A engine in it. It has the ford oil filter setup on the side of the motor. A line from the back of the block into the filter then a drain line to the sump. The filter top is causing me grief in I cannot get it to seal, Keeps pissing oil out. Even with a new seal. Seems like there is to much pressure and forcing it out the lid as it cannot drain fast enough. My plan is to delete this oil filter, Yes I know its prob not a good idea, but a bit of research tells me a lot are running around with out a filter. My question is, Can I just put a bung in the back of the block to block it off? or is there an issue with doing this as it comes from the oil pump I assume? Car does very little work, prob 200miles a year, cheers

10-02-2022, 08:07 AM	#2
Kube Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 9,007	Re: oil filter delete?? You will find differing opinions, as you'd suggested, as to whether or not you "need" the filter. I, for one, don't believe they do enough to warrant their necessity. You may remove the entire filter assembly. And yes, a simply plug at the back of the block will do the trick. Don't forget to plug the return boss as well. On your '46, that should be directly next to the dip stick tube at the oil pan. Oil filters were optional until early 1946. That fact may help ease your mind... __________________ "I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you".

10-02-2022, 08:10 AM	#3
marko39 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: harpursville ny Posts: 1,040	Re: oil filter delete?? Yes you can delete the filter by installing a plug but if it were me I would try to fix the leak first. Thousands of these are in use that don’t leak so something is not right. Check to see if there is a restrictor fitting on inlet which reduces the pressure in the canister. It should have a .060 hole in it.

10-02-2022, 09:48 AM	#5
deuce_roadster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shelton, WA Posts: 3,800	Re: oil filter delete?? I don't remember what the restrictor hole diameter was but it is less then .060. If the car is driven relatively few mile/year just change the oil each spring before you fire it up for the season. As Kube said, before 1946 they were optional. If there is no inlet restrictor, I believe it would be difficult to seal the top with the volume entering the filter. If your car is going to be judged, remember any optional equipment can only lose you points.

10-02-2022, 10:15 AM	#7
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,950	Re: oil filter delete?? Silverfoxracing: I wonder if the nut on top of the oil filter cover has been over tightened too many times causing the top to deform so that the sealing lip of the top doesn't literally "seal' against the top edge of the filter canister? Set the lid on a sheet of glass to see if it contacts the glass surface fully. Last edited by 19Fordy; 10-02-2022 at 11:24 AM.

10-02-2022, 11:20 AM	#8
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,646	Re: oil filter delete?? As stated previously, you will get opposing opinions on this subject. Here's mine: Today's oil being superior to oil back in the day is exactly the reason that an oil filter is needed today, as impurities are suspended in detergent oil, as opposed to settling out to sludge overnight with non-detergent oil. The impurities must now circulate until either removed by a filter, or drained for an oil change. A bypass filter as you have on your engine, if properly set up, will filter all oil in 20 minutes at cruise speed. A full flow filter as used on modern engines, will pass larger particles than a bypass filter, and will dump unfiltered oil if pressures exceed the preset. For these reasons, your filter should not be removed. The restrictor in a bypass filter is .60' and its placement on the inlet side is important. Pressure within the filter is greatly reduced by correct restrictor placement. Your filter may have been modified with a larger restrictor, or was incorrectly installed on the return line of the filter. You may also check for an accidental restriction caused by a crushed return line from the filter back to the engine. Also, the working engine oil pressure is directly affected by the size and location of the restrictor on the bypass side of the oil flow. Every engine should have a relief valve in the block, to prevent over-pressurizing the system. If yours is malfunctioning or has been removed, or is mismatched to a replacement oil pump, this may also be a factor in your non-sealing oil filter. Oil filters generally come with two different sized gaskets, to fit different brands of filters. They do not usually include the center hold down bolt gasket, which is easily made from soft copper by the user. Both gaskets are needed. __________________ Alan

10-02-2022, 11:22 AM	#9
Dick Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Deer Lodge, MT Posts: 658	Re: oil filter delete?? I had to deal with this recently and found it to be the gasket. After trying several that didn't work the one that came with a Napa gold 1006 filter fit. It's wider and will "snap" into place in the lid and will stay in place when placing the cap into position. What a mess to clean up!

10-02-2022, 12:38 PM	#11
joe 1950 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Green Bay Wi Posts: 400	Re: oil filter delete?? First check the filter to make sure it’s the right one for the canister does it sit to high and like was said maybe the cover is bent then try putting 2 gaskets in and see what happens good luck

10-02-2022, 01:06 PM	#13
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,319	Re: oil filter delete?? I am in the camp of those favoring the bypass filters as used by Ford. The way these cars are driven and maintained these days, the finer filtration they provide can only be of a benefit. Also, the paper element will absorb excess water that may find it's way into the system. As to lowering the pressure inside the filter. There is one .060" restriction on the input, but there are two on the output on the standpipe. Make sure those are clear.

10-02-2022, 06:18 PM	#15
51 MERC-CT Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Hartford, Ct Posts: 5,898	Re: oil filter delete?? If any of the hole/s in the center stand pipe or the oil return tube are plugged, excess pressure within the canister can cause the cover to leak. __________________ DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES

10-02-2022, 07:37 PM	#16
aussie merc Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: sydney australia Posts: 1,034	Re: oil filter delete?? check the return any restriction [kink etc] will restrict flow and cause pressure to rise then comes the dreaded leak .Something as simple as the return having been overtighten at some time can crush the pipe and restrict the flow back to the engine . Basically the filter needs to be able to get rid of the oil faster than it receives it hence the restrictor in the inlet

10-03-2022, 03:42 AM	#17
silverfoxracing Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2022 Posts: 3	Re: oil filter delete?? cheers for all the reply's. There is defiantly to much pressure in the canister. With the engine running I could see it forcing itself out from under the lid. Actually was bubbling out in one spot!! I realize there will always be pressure in there but it seemed excessive. Maybe no restrictor in there. On the pump side down the back of the block, there was an elbow fitting, but could not see a restrictor in there. will block it all off for now, and then pull the canister apart and check in there for one. Need to get it off the hoist so I can fix the sump plug in my Mustang!! sick of oil issues!! lol

10-03-2022, 07:10 AM	#18
RKS.PA Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marana, AZ Posts: 1,194	Re: oil filter delete?? I've had a similar filter leaking problem and I know my "plumbing" is correct. The gasket that comes with the 59004 Wix filter element does not seal my lid. Believe in my case, it's too narrow, so found one that was wider and keep using it during filter changes. Next time will try the Napa 1006 to see if it's wider!!

10-03-2022, 08:38 AM	#19
Gene1949 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Pahrump, NV Posts: 374	Re: oil filter delete?? Some on this board have made the claim; “with modern oils yearly oil changes make a filter unnecessary”. I’d like to point out whatever products of combustion (and wear particles) that find their way into the oil modern oils keep those impurities “in suspension”. Our old bypass filters remove those contaminates. Some don’t drive their cars all that much, but those acids and wear particles are still working their destructive magic.

10-03-2022, 09:52 AM	#20
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,755	Re: oil filter delete?? My experience is that the gasket in the lid supplied with the modern filters is not as good as the old rubber gaskets that were used. I have used the filters successfully but had to reuse the old gasket. I also have a restrictor on the inlet side. That is on two of my motors. On the others I do not run a filter and do not give it a moments thought. Bottom line: If you can stop it leaking, run the filter. If you can't, plug the supply hole in the block and either remove it and plug the return hole or just leave it in place for looks. If a new or decent gasket shows up you can always easily give it another go. Mart.