Excessive crank end float.

[Ronnieroadster]

Simply flare the thrust surface of the bearing out the slight amount needed and its done. Works fine every time.

[outlaw]

Sorry to intrude on this, but I would like to see some final pictures showing the outcome of the repair. I am interested in case I ever run this problem. Thanks.

[Mart]

This is my plan.

I have ordered some sticks of babbitt.
I will apply the babbitt to one thrust face of pair of bearings.
I will turn a mandrel to the crank size plus a couple of thou.
I will clamp the pair of bearing halves to the mandrel while still on the lathe.
I will then skim to length.

That's the plan. Lets see how closely it resembles reality when the time comes.

Mart.

[Brian]

Good plan Mart...one more step; put a coupla grooves in the faces of the bearings [copy the original] just as an aid in lubing

[Mart]

Thanks for the guidance Brian. It was your posts that made me go in the direction I have.

[outlaw]

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Mart, would you please do a video on this repair on your You Tube video channel?

[Yoyodyne]

This discussion has me thinking perhaps I could butter babbitt onto the backs of 21 stud main bearing shells, then turn them down to the needed diameter to fit the block I have with .015 oversize main saddles.

[Brian]

Yoyo, Good idea! Those blocks with the .015 o/s main bearing bore, are .010' narrower between the flanges. Hardest part of the job would be tinning those inner faces and 'buttering' [I like that description!] them without affecting the thrust faces.

[cas3]

Thats how my friend did it with babbet model T thrust bearing surface. Dripping it on, he said, I never saw him do it. Then cut to size with a home made line bore type of shaft with a lathe cutting tool mounted. I dont recall how it was powered, or depth of cut controlled. The man has since passed...he was our local model T wizzard

[Yoyodyne]

Originally Posted by Brian

Yoyo, Good idea! Those blocks with the .015 o/s main bearing bore, are .010' narrower between the flanges. Hardest part of the job would be tinning those inner faces and 'buttering' [I like that description!] them without affecting the thrust faces.

I glad you think so, that increases my confidence that it might work. I'm thinking soldering a shim to the inside of the flange might be the way to fix the width difference.


I've never done any babbitting, and have never machined babbitt. I can only imagine holding a close tolerance and cylindricity and concentricity in Babbitt without scraping. And scraping the OD of bearing shells doesn't appeal to me. A new adventure awaits!

[Bored&Stroked]

Given the .010 narrower main saddles, I would have no problem using .010 shim stock to take up the difference. I'd probably glue it to the back of the shells - on the side facing the front of the engine (non-clutch force side). Once the shells are in there, can't see it moving.

[Yoyodyne]

I received advice from a VERY experienced and knowledgeable Flathead expert (Known to many here but not on the board) that I could shim the diameter of the shells with pure nickle (only) shim stock to take up the .015" diameter difference, that he had done it routinely and that it works. I didn't get an explanation of why nickle for the material, and can't ask now. Has anyone else here heard of this? I'm thinking nickle because it is soft, but so is copper. Heat transfer perhaps?

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Crank can be welded and reground to reduce to proper Specification.

That is what my crank grinder did on one of my builds
John