How to remove front top shackle bushing?

[bill h]

I did my rear ones. Took them to a spring shop after wrecking a few. Not rocket science but like any job the right tools make any job easy. Had my rear end apart. (another story but i made seal drivers to install seals. Tools made the job easy) The shop charged me twenty bucks to install the bushings while i waited took about a minute. Good luck

[jerseyboy]

As I needed to replace the shackle bushings on my wagon, I read this thread with interest.

I took Mart's approach and hammered out the bolts. I then started to cut the jacket with a hacksaw. This seemed like a tediuos process, so I tried to think of a better way to remove the jackets.

I decided I was going to use the all-thread I had used to remove the springs.

I placed a deep 11mm socket at one end and a section of pipe, the same diameter as the spring perch, at the other end.

I then ran the all-thread thru these with a washer and nut at each end.

I simply turned the nut and pushed/pulled the jacket out.

I know one side was in pretty good, but the other side and worn thru the jacket, so that came out pretty easy.

One, note, I did work the bolt back and forth with a pipe wrench and pipe before I hammered it out.



Thanks for all the ideas.

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!

[1oldtimer]

So what was the outcome??? good as new .

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by fordor41

I replaced mine on my '41 with moly impregnated nylon. Have been in for 19+ yrs and no sign of wear. If you have access to a lathe you can buy the material in rod form from McMaster-Carr and fab them any size you need.

I was thinking there has to be a modern type material that is superior to the original.
Would Oilite work or it it too soft?
I bought some speedway shackles and they have a plastic bushing?
C&G has the proper bushings, I think.

[jerseyboy]

I'm using Pete and Jakes shackles and bushings.

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!

[Ralph Moore]

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One thing I have not seen mentioned ( unless I missed it) is the need to clock the new bushing in place. Because of the square stud and torque design it should be put in at the right position to line up with the shackes and opposing bushing stud. Correct?

[1oldtimer]

Originally Posted by 36coupe

I was thinking there has to be a modern type material that is superior to the original.
Would Oilite work or it it too soft?
I bought some speedway shackles and they have a plastic bushing?
C&G has the proper bushings, I think.

I believe some of the hot rod places are selling Oillite bushing. I bought some for my '28, but it hasn't seen the road yet.

[Brendan]

I can tell you that hammering is no good, when I put them in my pickup I bought 4 0f them, 2 to f#%k up and 2 that worked

[flatford8]

I tried hammering spring bushings in on the rear of a Chebby one-ton. Its like trying to dent your tire by hitting it with a hammer. You get nowhere .....MARK

[SofaKing]

I followed this thread because I am replacing the rears now and it went very well. I rented a balljoint press from oreilly auto parts (free there) and with a socket and piece of flat steel pressed the new ones in both the spring and perches. I removed the old sleeves with a saw, punches, chisels and a cheap muffler type air hammer, not fun. Take a look and you will see the similarity between the ball joint press and the correct factory tool. Like others I put a little anti seize in the bores. I also used a ball shaped stone to remove rust from the bores but was careful not to wallow out the holes. A little improvisation was required.