Stuck Head

[Survivorman]

Finally joined the forum after years of casually reading everyone's posts. I need some advice: I have a blown head gasket on my "survivor" 29 CCPU. (I got it running and drove it for several years before this problem.) I figure this head may have been on the car since the 60's. I used liberal amounts of penetrating oil for several weeks. Then used a Gord Baverstock head puller - the head did not budge, and one plug stud finally broke! Next used a Snyders' puller (pulls on all 4 plugs) - it loosened the head on the right side, more on the front than the rear, but the left side won't budge, and the back two plug studs (3 and 4) now won't tighten further. I used some wooden wedges but no movement. Now I figure I should keep the pressure on the puller and then start using heat, but any advice from forum members would be greatly appreciated!

[Fullraceflathead]

If it was me. Since the head is junk anyway I'd heat it up with a Propane torch.

[mike657894]

the head studs rust around the stud and that may be the cause of your sticking.

[WHN]

Use Marvel Mystery Oil on studs, do not remove spark plugs, with key off press starter button. Make sure you give oil time to penetrate the studs.

Nuts most be removed from head studs.

Has always worked for us.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Survivorman

...it loosened the head on the right side, more on the front than the rear, but the left side won't budge, and the back two plug studs (3 and 4) now won't tighten further. I used some wooden wedges but no movement. Now I figure I should keep the pressure on the puller and then start using heat, but any advice from forum members would be greatly appreciated!

You mentioned that it moved "more on the front than the rear" and "more on the front than the rear, but the left side won't budge". It may be binding on the studs, making it hard to pull. Try to keep it as level as possible. Pull straight up.

When inserting wooden wedges be careful of the valves, they bend easily.

[RawhideKid]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

When mine wouldn't budge using the compression method, I cut a 10ft length of cotton rope and with #1 and #4 bottomed, stuffed 5ft in 1 and 4 and rocked the motor with the trans in 3rd gear.

Worked very well. And yes, it was done after a weeks soaking in penetrating oils.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Theyr's HORROR stories of stuck heads!!! Just think of that, whin' you say, "Let's just POP it off & replace the gasket"!!
IF it's running well & NO signs of leakage, jist leave it ALONE!!
Bill Practical

[Anteek29]

Stuffing cotton rope in the cylinders just might bend a rod...or damage a bearing.

[Survivorman]

Thanks for all the advice so far. I did read all the past threads on the subject (including heads stuck so bad they could support the weight of the car) and tried for 6 months to avoid doing this job. I retorqued all the nuts, and changed the oil frequently while continuing to drive it. But I still had water on the dipstick, and the head had to come off.

[1crosscut]

Let off on the pressure and use a dead fall hammer or such and drive it back down into place. Pull it up again and repeat. Sometimes rust etc... will build up in front of things on one long pull binding things up. Moving it up and down will allow things to work free.

[1930 coupe]

Loosen the puller and put your favorite penetrating oil around all the studs, then knock the head back down with a rubber hammer or with the head nuts. Then pull it back up with your puller, then knock it down again. The up and down movement will loosen the rust on the studs and it will move easier and move a little more with each up and down cycle until it comes off. You must keep the head level, even a new head on new studs will not move if it is not level.

[mike657894]

i had an idea it may not be a good one. weld the nut to the stud and extract the studs. or you could take and grind nuts in half to get a jamnut on the studs. if they are rust locked you may just break them laving more work to do. you will want to replace the head studs because originals will have heavy corrosion and even a little pitting will be a sign of a stud that can snap. and at 20 for a head stud kit. and 50 for a kit to remove one. But you should get a torch on those rear studs and get some things smokin and that should free it.

[Jacksonlll]

If you have it moving, you are past the hard part. Drop it down and workmit up staying square. Dont let it bind on the studs.

[V4F]

I drive a putty knife into the head gasket . do it all the way around . soak studs with PB BLASTER & MMO .

[Railcarmover]

Been using corrosion compounds for 40 years professionally...tried them all,PB,Kroil,Liquid Wrench,MMO,you name it.This stuff beats them all,its absolutely amazing.Its spendy,15 bucks a can but worth every penny.Just did a head thats been rusted on for fifty years..soaked with this two hours and the rust was emulsified..

[Tom Wesenberg]

This is the first I've heard of this product, but will look for it, as $15 is actually a bit less than I paid for Kroil.

[Big hammer]

Originally Posted by Railcarmover

Been using corrosion compounds for 40 years professionally...tried them all,PB,Kroil,Liquid Wrench,MMO,you name it.This stuff beats them all,its absolutely amazing.Its spendy,15 bucks a can but worth every penny.Just did a head thats been rusted on for fifty years..soaked with this two hours and the rust was emulsified..

Where do you find this oil !

[Hook]

Amazon for $20.62 for 16 oz can. Walmart and Grainger have it on line. Just Google the name.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Hook

Amazon for $20.62 for 16 oz can. Walmart and Grainger have it on line. Just Google the name.

Walmart $17.95 plus $5.00 shipping. I'm going to have to order some of it and try out.
Amazon $19.90 for 16 oz. spray bottle Prime members free shipping, I ordered one because there's got to be something better than PB... I hope.

[Jacksonlll]

I always tell people that it takes 7 screw drivers and 12 putty knives.