03-28-2017, 07:04 AM | #1 |
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Door skins
getting some bottom door skins for the Ole Leatherback. Rusted out on the bottom edges enough to make me spend more money. Any tricks on cutting the outside skin off? Worried about the outer edges. How do you get that seam area inside the door that connects outter skin to door jam.
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03-28-2017, 08:21 AM | #2 |
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Re: Door skins
Hmmmm, well the first 'trick' or advice is do not use commercially available patch panels if you want the job to look correct as they are made incorrectly. If you look at the door, it has a slight crown (-or bow) which means the bead has a slight arch to it.
Next, before the panel skin is cut, you need to make a fixture to hold the correct shape (crown) of the door. This is imperative that you do this, especially during the welding process, or you will have warpage deluxe. There are door skin flanging tools available ( more $$ ) or you can grind the edges of the panel until you have three layer of metal showing. Then remove the outer piece. You need to be able to mark your patch panel in advance so that when you remove the old panel, the replacement panel aligns with the mouldings both fore & aft. Can you post a picture showing the damage you have? I am curious how the metal is rusted this badly without there being any wood damage. |
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03-28-2017, 11:30 AM | #3 |
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Re: Door skins
To cut the old piece off, use a small grinder with a cut off disc.
carry on nick c |
03-28-2017, 11:32 AM | #4 |
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Re: Door skins
Brent just outlined some of the problems with buying and fitting commercial Patch Panels. I am fortunate, I have a old anvil with a "belly" in the surface that seems to have the correct curvature. I lightly banged it out from a flat piece of 18ga and it fit perfectly. Just weld it and Bondo it. It's my right front door. Look in my album, "My A". There are a few pics of how I did it. And I bought the steel from a scrap yard for $3.
Terry |
03-28-2017, 02:49 PM | #5 |
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Re: Door skins
It's just this bottom lip on both fronts.
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03-28-2017, 03:13 PM | #6 |
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Re: Door skins
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03-28-2017, 03:32 PM | #7 |
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Re: Door skins
Easiest way incld longetivity is to find other doors...
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03-28-2017, 04:07 PM | #8 |
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Re: Door skins
Mitch...they are solid otherwise. 90 year surface rust.
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03-28-2017, 08:50 PM | #9 |
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Re: Door skins
Gee I'm hoping you meant me when you said "Points car"! That Town Sedan is my first real restoration. Before that I just worked on Tractors and specific jobs on a car for someone else.
This is my first "Down to the last bolt restoration job" ! If it was me, I'm flattered! If not, no offense! Do you have a MIG (Wirefeed) welder? You're going to need one. Wish We lived closer, I could help you more than just by writing solutions. About the welder, I see them going for about $125-150 with a gas bottle (CO2/ Argon)used, HF has them too. 125V, Standard plug configuration. Don't waste your time with one without gas or a gas bottle. |
03-28-2017, 10:00 PM | #10 |
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Re: Door skins
Terry...wish you were closer by as I am no body man but I wasn't a mechanic either before I started this and I think I'm doing pretty well with the help here and Andrews book! you have a nice vehicle!!
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03-29-2017, 03:26 AM | #11 |
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Re: Door skins
It's only a small strip missing off the bottom of the door [the part that nails on to the wood that is also missing]You might be better off having that TIg Welded less chance of warpage
But what scares me most is the fact that a lot of that wood is missing .You really need to make a fixture to keep the shape. Mitch's idea about finding some better doors with solid wood and metal , could be the best option .They are around Try Berts or Sammy at Arizona Model A Ford |
03-29-2017, 03:43 AM | #12 |
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Re: Door skins
Juke, thanks for the input. I wouldn't know what wood needs to go into the doors as it came without it in the two fronts. I imagine fabricating the wood would not be a problem for me. I just have to see a picture. I would also assume original doors would be very expensive.
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03-29-2017, 04:09 AM | #13 |
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Re: Door skins
just found a picture of the wood...I can handle that and I see now its just that lip piece that's nailed to the under side of the wood.
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03-29-2017, 08:17 AM | #14 |
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Re: Door skins
That piece of wood is a strip of hard wood with notches cut into the ends to fit the upright door pieces. It was then SCREWED in place. Not nailed. Find an old hardwood pallet and use that wood, it"ll work fine. Fit the curve to the inside of the door. Again, Look in my album, pic # 71..... and you'll see the one I made. With care and patience, you do fine!
Terry |
03-29-2017, 08:53 AM | #15 |
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Re: Door skins
Terry you are a good man! Thanks! BTW, I had looked at other door in a long time as its against garage wall....I thought it was bad as well but it is good!!
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04-01-2017, 12:59 AM | #16 | |
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Re: Door skins
Quote:
I am wanting to redo the doors on my s/w sedan as they have been redone and leave a lot to be desired. Unfortunately I do not have much reference of how they are really supposed to look. |
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04-01-2017, 01:05 AM | #17 |
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Re: Door skins
Zero, go to Brent's site and look at some of his great restore photos. I found a nice pic of inner door Fordor wood that I had no idea what was there on mine. Might be a pic to help you.
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04-01-2017, 01:17 AM | #18 | |
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Re: Door skins
Quote:
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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04-01-2017, 02:07 AM | #19 |
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Re: Door skins
Thanks Mike! And thanks for sending some of that Florida heat up here in VA!!
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