The Ford Barn

dave11 · 03-22-2017, 10:10 PM

Have a 30 with intermitant ignition switch continuity issues. This is a non pop up style. The switch body is diecast, the back of the switch is crimped in place. Anyone had success removing and reinstalling the rear plate??

Dave Eddie

dave11 · 03-22-2017, 10:27 PM

Don't know if my switch is OEM or not? on the back side stamped into the metal plate is USC ?

Dave

Fred S · 03-22-2017, 10:58 PM

Dave,

I have what sounds like a similar switch. It has 2 tabs on the back holding an insulated piece. I was able to slightly bend the tabs, to get the insulated piece out. Inside was a bar, that made contact with 2 contacts when the key was turned. I was able to clean everything, stretch the spring that puts pressure on the bar, and reassemble. So far, so good, but I don't think the tabs will bend again without breaking.

Synchro909 · 03-22-2017, 11:40 PM

I've had a similar issue with a modern aftermarket plain (non pop out) switch. I didn't bother trying to take it apart. I supposed that the problem was related to the fact that the back of it along with the two posts was loose. When I held the back onto the body of the switch, everything worked reliably so I mixed some epoxy putty and forced it into the gaps created by the looseness. I then clamped the back tighter onto the body, squeezing some of the putty out again and built up enough putty between the posts to hold it all together. Once it had set, all was good and there have been no issues since.
When on loooong tours with only my wife (up to 10,000 miles at a time), I carry a toggle switch like the one for the driving lights which could also serve as an ignition switch if need be. I chose a switch that is also able to stand in as a turn signal switch. One part, several uses - less spares to carry.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-23-2017, 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Synchro909

I've had a similar issue with a modern aftermarket plain (non pop out) switch. I didn't bother trying to take it apart. I supposed that the problem was related to the fact that the back of it along with the two posts was loose. When I held the back onto the body of the switch, everything worked reliably so I mixed some epoxy putty and forced it into the gaps created by the looseness. I then clamped the back tighter onto the body, squeezing some of the putty out again and built up enough putty between the posts to hold it all together. Once it had set, all was good and there have been no issues since.
When on loooong tours with only my wife (up to 10,000 miles at a time), I carry a toggle switch like the one for the driving lights which could also serve as an ignition switch if need be. I chose a switch that is also able to stand in as a turn signal switch. One part, several uses - less spares to carry.

Synchro,
If I were touring WAAAAY out in your OUTBACK, I'd tow a SPARE CAR---LOL
Bill Worry

2manycars · 03-23-2017, 06:43 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I have a few of those old popout look alikes that do not pop out. My father's car came with one when he bought it in 1960. Perhaps western auto, or sears.
I use the modern popout look alike that Bratton's sells, which mounts from behind like the original, and looks like a popout from the front, but does not pop out. It has detents for on and off, and works very well.

https://www.brattons.com/ignition-sw...nal-cable.html

Hook · 03-23-2017, 08:03 AM

I took mine apart and found it loaded with grease. Cleaned out the grease and works great. It is a switch like 2manycars posted purchased from one of our good vendors. The replacement our ordered didn't show good continuity either, so I returned it and took apart the older one I had. I had to pry the crimp area out with a screwdriver. When I put it back together, I did like Syncro909 and held the switch tight with a clamp and put JB Weld on the back to hold it together.

dave11 · 03-24-2017, 10:30 AM

Haven't installed it yet but it seems to work fine. The issue was it had no continuity between the switch and the distributo./r The switch housing is a die cast type, in order to remove the back I have to grind the crimps off the housing (die cast will not bend). Not sure if this is an OEM switch or not but the insulation on the wire inside the wound metal sheath was Badly deteriorated, bare in a lot of spots. The wire contact at the coil contact end of the switch was corroded as well.
With a bit of prying I was able to remove both ends of the metal sheath and replace the wire. I had some new OEM looking wire with the braided insulation, not that any one will see it but I like originality when I can. Will install the distributor this weekend .

Dave eddie

1955cj5 · 03-28-2017, 06:36 PM

Hi Dave,

Is this the same type switch??? Sounds similar from your description..

Randy

jfreddie · 03-30-2017, 02:19 PM

Stiener tractor sells that same sw for $12.

03-22-2017, 10:10 PM	#1
dave11 Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lillooet BC Canada Posts: 59	ignition switch repair Have a 30 with intermitant ignition switch continuity issues. This is a non pop up style. The switch body is diecast, the back of the switch is crimped in place. Anyone had success removing and reinstalling the rear plate?? Dave Eddie

03-22-2017, 10:27 PM	#2
dave11 Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lillooet BC Canada Posts: 59	Re: ignition switch repair Don't know if my switch is OEM or not? on the back side stamped into the metal plate is USC ? Dave

03-22-2017, 10:58 PM	#3
Fred S Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 137	Re: ignition switch repair Dave, I have what sounds like a similar switch. It has 2 tabs on the back holding an insulated piece. I was able to slightly bend the tabs, to get the insulated piece out. Inside was a bar, that made contact with 2 contacts when the key was turned. I was able to clean everything, stretch the spring that puts pressure on the bar, and reassemble. So far, so good, but I don't think the tabs will bend again without breaking.

03-22-2017, 11:40 PM	#4
Synchro909 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 7,496	Re: ignition switch repair I've had a similar issue with a modern aftermarket plain (non pop out) switch. I didn't bother trying to take it apart. I supposed that the problem was related to the fact that the back of it along with the two posts was loose. When I held the back onto the body of the switch, everything worked reliably so I mixed some epoxy putty and forced it into the gaps created by the looseness. I then clamped the back tighter onto the body, squeezing some of the putty out again and built up enough putty between the posts to hold it all together. Once it had set, all was good and there have been no issues since. When on loooong tours with only my wife (up to 10,000 miles at a time), I carry a toggle switch like the one for the driving lights which could also serve as an ignition switch if need be. I chose a switch that is also able to stand in as a turn signal switch. One part, several uses - less spares to carry. __________________ I'm part of the only ever generation with an analogue childhood and a digital adulthood.

03-23-2017, 08:03 AM	#7
Hook Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Twin Cities Suburbs Posts: 105	Re: ignition switch repair I took mine apart and found it loaded with grease. Cleaned out the grease and works great. It is a switch like 2manycars posted purchased from one of our good vendors. The replacement our ordered didn't show good continuity either, so I returned it and took apart the older one I had. I had to pry the crimp area out with a screwdriver. When I put it back together, I did like Syncro909 and held the switch tight with a clamp and put JB Weld on the back to hold it together. __________________ 1930 Pickup in Prior Lake, MN

03-24-2017, 10:30 AM	#8
dave11 Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lillooet BC Canada Posts: 59	Re: ignition switch repair Haven't installed it yet but it seems to work fine. The issue was it had no continuity between the switch and the distributo./r The switch housing is a die cast type, in order to remove the back I have to grind the crimps off the housing (die cast will not bend). Not sure if this is an OEM switch or not but the insulation on the wire inside the wound metal sheath was Badly deteriorated, bare in a lot of spots. The wire contact at the coil contact end of the switch was corroded as well. With a bit of prying I was able to remove both ends of the metal sheath and replace the wire. I had some new OEM looking wire with the braided insulation, not that any one will see it but I like originality when I can. Will install the distributor this weekend . Dave eddie

03-30-2017, 02:19 PM	#10
jfreddie Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: anchorage, alaska Posts: 117	Re: ignition switch repair Stiener tractor sells that same sw for $12.