39 - 6 volt electrical question

[30-9]

Hi Folks

Looking at the electrical drawings, I see the wire on top of the coil (helmet distro) goes to the under dash resistor. If the resistor goes bad & does not provide proper volts to coil, will car seem like the battery is low at start up (only when hot)?

I'm still battling a heavy start drain when only when hot. Car has never failed to start hot but painfully....

I also know thousands of posts on this subject....but this is driving me nuts. Car runs great & starts perfectly when cold.

Driving me nuts as I have done all below:

• All grounds are clean (grounded all metal clean at each connection point) & tight.
• added additional grds
• skip coil
• new optima battery
• new starter
• new soleniod & condensor
• bubba 11a distro

PLEASE help

[JSeery]

The resistor is not a very likely source of the problem, but you can check it by bypassing it with a jumper wire and see how that works. Do not leave the jumper on for very long, just to check it. The coil and condenser are the most likely electrical issues and you have replaced them. Is the condenser know to be good (tested), and not just new off the shelf?

It is possible that the problem is not electrical, but fuel related. Another thought, have you checked the battery voltage when having the starting problem, is the generator charging it properly?

[alanwoodieman]

what about the sizes of you battery cables? 6 volt require a great deal of amperage to work and especially when hot the drain is even more

[30-9]

Thanks Gentlemen,

Cables are right size. I have tried several different new condensors as it's a cheap fix and problem still there.

I have an electric fuel pump so I don't think it's fuel. Also I doubt that would cause a sound like a very weak battery.

The volt gauge (not amp) shows charging. But you have given me a good suggestion to check voltage when cranking. I have not done that and will....

thanks again.

[JSeery]

Only comment on the condenser is folks like Bubba have posted going through a lot of condensers to find a good one. I would suggest getting a know good condenser from someone who has the capability to test them. May not be the problem, but a least you would know you have a tested condenser and eliminate that part from the problem.

[G.M.]

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Your problem is not ignition. It is battery, starter, ground or cable related. G.M.

[30-9]

Put volt meter on.

Cold:
Before start - 6.3 volts
After start at idle - 6.8 6.9 volts

Will try again later after I get it hot.

[JSeery]

Seems a little low at idle, might check it at idle and say 1500 RPM or so, it should be in the 7.2 - 7.5 V range.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by 30-9

Put volt meter on.

Cold:
Before start - 6.3 volts
After start at idle - 6.8 6.9 volts

Will try again later after I get it hot.

Check the voltage and amp draw while the engine is cranking.

Bob

[rotorwrench]

If the starter is laboring excessively, it may be dragging due to a bearing or an armature problem that gets worst when warmed up. The battery needs to be load checked to make sure it's good too.

[Terry,OH]

Can you describe the problem? heavy start drain...painful?? does the start motor turn the engine over quickly? Some detail would help.

[30-9]

The starter is new.

Car when after sitting for a couple hours will crank and start like it should.

If I take car a 30-40 minute (or longer) ride, shut and try to restart, the car barely turns over. If I release the button and re-press start button, it will sound same or may be a little better and will it will always catch eventually and start the car. However, if you were standing near by, you would think its a very weak battery and think this guys is going to be calling for a tow.

BTW - if I take for a short ride (lets say 10-15 min) to get gas. Boom starts right up...So fustrating

[V8COOPMAN]

So, let's be CLEAR about your symptom. It SEEMS like you're using so many other words and phrases just to say......."The starter turns-over the engine much-more slowly than normal, AFTER the engine runs long enough to reach FULL temperature"........is that correct?

You said you have a new starter. Did you sand-away or remove the paint from the portion of the starter that contacts the pan......the part that's required to be clean to complete a GOOD ground for the starter circuit? DD

[30-9]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

So, let's be CLEAR about your symptom. It SEEMS like you're using so many other words and phrases just to say......."The starter turns-over the engine much-more slowly than normal, AFTER the engine runs long enough to reach FULL temperature"........is that correct?

You said you have a new starter. Did you sand-away or remove the paint from the portion of the starter that contacts the pan......the part that's required to be clean to complete a GOOD ground for the starter circuit? DD

Coop

Correct - almost like there is something putting a major drain on the battery after car is hot and I try to start. I won't say warmed up, cause it reached operatiing temp going to gas station (many times) and then it starts fine.

Also Yes, I took off every single ground connection off and wire wheeled them to bare metal then put back and tightened down - not to mention added additonal grounds from Tranny to frame, starter to frame, firewall to frame.

[JSeery]

Did you put the connections on bare or with a coat of grease on them? Also the starter to oilpan connection Coop pointed out?

[39topless]

You may want to test that "new" solenoid the next time it gets too hot to start. Just jump the connections on each side of the solenoid with a jump wire and see if you get a better current to the starter. Hint, make sure your car is in neutral.

[J Franklin]

When you run to the gas station it starts easy because the starter motor hasn't gotten very warm, but after a long drive it is about as hot as the engine and heat causes resistance. That is what I think you are dealing with. Your starter motor isn't new it is rebuilt.

[30-9]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Did you put the connections on bare or with a coat of grease on them? Also the starter to oilpan connection Coop pointed out?

JS

No I didn't use grease. Yes I took that bracket off oil pan starter...Not that easy at 72 laying on concrete....and wire wheeled both the oil pan and the bracket.

[30-9]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

When you run to the gas station it starts easy because the starter motor hasn't gotten very warm, but after a long drive it is about as hot as the engine and heat causes resistance. That is what I think you are dealing with. Your starter motor isn't new it is rebuilt.

Ok then help me understand....This problem was there with original starter. Bought new one from Macs installed and same problem is still there...

[JSeery]

If it was me I would reclean the grounds along with the other checks. Bare metal is going to rust quickly (like overnight) and develop resistance. Probably not the current problem, but if not will be.