28 CCPU drip rail finishing

[pooch]

I see on Marco's site, on an original as found pic , that the side drip rail filler extends a little outside the channel and over the hidem with a hole for a nail in itself.

The repro filler strip is the exact same length as the channel and 4 metal finisher end caps are supplied, just like a roadster hidem finishes.

I nailed 3 end caps on today , and had them pointing from the hidem towards the drip rail, on the last one , I looked at it pointing away from the rail into the hidem.

I think it looks better.

I know neither is original, as it seems there was no end caps, but which way do others do it ?

[Dan Partain]

The original drawing of the Drip Moulding Finish Strip AA-83956 I have spec's the length as 31 5/8" to 31 3/4" long. At the rear there is a 3/32" punched hole 1/4" from the end. Both ends have a radius of about 1/2". Painted, 2 coats of black enamel.

I have seen a section of tape measure cut to fit and painted as a substitute for the Finish Strip on a Model T which looks the same as what's on the 82-A.

[wrndln]

Interesting string. Could either you, Pooch or Dan post a picture of the ends of the rain gutter. My 29 CCPU had no door header wood, so of course no rain gutter. I will probably need to use repro gutters, which I have heard are not too bad. I would like to see how the front and rear ends are finished like. Marco's website doesn't show the ends very well.
Rusty Nelson

[Dan Partain]

Rusty -
Here's a comparison of the original Drip Moulding and the repro. Also, the repro Drip Moulding & Finish Strip.

[wrndln]

Dan,
Thanks for posting the pictures of the drip moldings. I don't understand how the finish strip is held in place. I would assume the larger strip is nailed on first like most rain gutters. There must be holes in the larger strip for the nails. Does the finish strip snap on? From the end view, I don't see how the finish strip stays in place.
Rusty Nelson

[pooch]

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A few pics to explain problem.

Marco's original gutter rail, on closer inspection, it looks like it may have had something covering the end of the filler.



As in Dan's pic, my filler does not extend past the gutter, it is exactly the same length.
ATM, I have used a piece of tape measure painted flat black as a filler, as the repro filler fell out of channel, it is too small, but as I bent the gutter a bit to more follow roof edge, it may now jam in tight with a slight arch in it , dunno, will try it .

As I was on my 4th spear, I thought they looked a bit funny, as I did them same as my roadster and finished the spear pointing away from hidem.

I temporarily held the last spear around the other way, pointing into the hidem and it looks better to me.

But if there was an original direction, I would rather do it that way.






Notice the see through gap above doors, on a previous thread, I said I was missing the wood the fits to bottom of top rail that windlace attaches to and closes draft at top of door.

Still have to make that piece when I figure out the dimensions of it.

[Joe K]

Marco's seems to be rusty (heh) and pointing into the hidem.

Mine was minus the gutter (still is actually) and the hidem is used all the way around.

To be replaced when I put the whole top back with correct wood (it's something the prior owner made up out of pine boards right now.)

Joe K

[wrndln]

Pooch,
I dug out the weatherstrip wood in my wood kit. I laid a tape measure along side it so you can see where the holes are. The picture is 3 Mpixels, so you can zoom in a lot to see where the screw holes are. The strip is 29 3/4" long, 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick.

I don't have any idea whether the spear clips should be one way or the other. Maybe someone that know will post something - Marco are you there??

I still don't see how the finish strip stays in the main part of the gutter.
Rusty Nelson

[Dan Partain]

I agree, it doesn't look like the Finish Strip will stay put, it looks even worse turned 180. Here's an additional photo just in case you were wondering. In the second photo in my post above, it may stay in the Drip Moulding if the top of the DM is bent over more.


I don't have any pieces of an original Finish Strip for comparison, but in the original drawing it is shaped more like this rough sketch I just made.

I'm sure there were no "spears" used on the hidem welt, only the Finish Strip on top of the welt. The "spears" would be visable in the original factory photos if they were present. With that said, the ones on your cab look very nice and look "factory."

[pooch]

Thanks for info Rusty, and Dan, I agree, I think the top of the gutter has to bent over more to hold the strip in.

Maybe the spear was black ?

And doesn't show up well on pics ?

Marco would know, but his original pic with the lighter colour at strip end sure looks like something covered it once.

It is all moot, tho because the repro filler strip does not protrude out either end anyway.

[d.j. moordigian]

Dan,

Who made the repop drip rail? Kinda looks like the one that Brattons
sells, which they say is " Exact Duplicate". That could be a tough part
to fix.....and I could use a set for my CCPU.

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by Dan Partain

Rusty -
Here's a comparison of the original Drip Moulding and the repro. Also, the repro Drip Moulding & Finish Strip.

Now please tell me...when these yahooooo's reproduced the item shown above, why in the hell didn't they go all the way and make it exact like the original one shown?

Well we have been down that road before and we all know the story behind that one.

But if you don't, here is the simple fact...it would of cost to much money on their part to do so.

Pluck

[wrndln]

Steve,
I agree with you, why can't the makers of parts make then correctly. I can't see how it would cost much more to make it right - no more material required. The strange thing is in Bratton's catalog is says the rain gutter are "exact duplicate of original" gutters in their catalog description. There is no way they are exact copies. I can see 4 problems, the top flange is not bent down right, the gutter part is not bent upward enough, the main part has too much of a convex bend to it and the finishing strip is not longer than the main gutter piece like it should be. How can Walt state the gutter is an exact duplicate.
Rusty Nelson

[Steve Plucker]

Originally Posted by wrndln

Steve,
I agree with you, why can't the makers of parts make then correctly. I can't see how it would cost much more to make it right - no more material required. The strange thing is in Bratton's catalog is says the rain gutter are "exact duplicate of original" gutters in their catalog description. There is no way they are exact copies. I can see 4 problems, the top flange is not bent down right, the gutter part is not bent upward enough, the main part has too much of a convex bend to it and the finishing strip is not longer than the main gutter piece like it should be. How can Walt state the gutter is an exact duplicate.
Rusty Nelson

I guess in this business you have to restore the reproduction parts

Good question Rusty.

Pluck

[azmodela]

It's better than nothing. We could be restoring Duesenberg's or Cords. What so you think the reproduction market is for those?

[Ed Saniewski]

If you have not installed the rain gutter yet, cut it 1/2 inch shorter, then take the finish strip and round the end like the photos Marco posted. This will look close to the original.I am sure you are not building a fine point truck, so this is the best you can do. I agree that the repop part could be better, even if they just made the finish strip a little longer.

[pooch]

I think having to bodge and cut the rail is worse than leaving it be, and maybe making a new longer insert.

The original insert looks to be about 5/8ths longer and that would be at each end, so that would mean shortening the rail by 1 1/4 inches, and I don't think the repro insert is anywhere near as flat as an original , so the ends sticking out would be a real crappy shape.

The rail needs to be level with the front of the door edge for appearance and finish and if it was over 1 inch shorter at rear, it would look very off, being not in the correct place half way around the swage curve of side panel.

That would be something I would look at every time I saw the car and be annoying.

On closer inspection of Marco's pic, I think I may be seeing an indentation in the hidem where the lighter colour is , where a spear may have covered.

Have a good look at directly where the rail finishes , I think I can see two indents and the shape of a spear, that would correspond with the outline of a spear and possibly some crushing of the hidem .

Does anybody else see what I think I see ?

[d.j. moordigian]

I've thought about this all day,..and I have a question.

How thick is both pieces of repop metal? Rusty??

I think the main piece needs to be put in the mill, too correct
correct the top and bottom "ends". To get them to the right
length before reforming.

The secondary piece needs to be lengthened to make it look
correct. Shortening the main part would look wrong.

If they (the supplier) charged $140 for a correct part instead of
of $40 for an incorrect part would be worth it.

As far as the finished end of the secondary piece, this is how I remember
looking at Barbra's (Firefox?) Phone Truck (ya,..I know, it's a 30-31), when
Bill Strum pointed it out. This was during judging.

Marcos' photo....thank you!

[wrndln]

Pooch,
I does look like something where the spear would be. I don't know what the two marks are however. I agree that cutting off the main gutter to have the finishing strip be longer wouldn't look right. I will try to think of ways to try to make the repro gutter more like an original. Maybe an English wheel would force down the top flange and maybe force the leading edge of the gutter up some. I don't have access to an English wheel and it might not work anyway. Like you said, the back side of the main part should be flatted some also. So many problems with the repro gutter and I didn't even mention the finishing strip problems - shape and length. Sad that repro parts makers wont make many part correctly - how much harder could it be to do it correctly. I guess we should be glad they make something, but why oh why can't they do better.
Rusty Nelson

[d.j. moordigian]

This maybe something I'm not seeing, without having the part
in my hand,....

Is the filler/secondary piece of metal in upside down....what does
it look like ?