Help with my 46 Super Deluxe Coupe Sedan

[Jersey Joe 67]

Hello to all,

First let me start out by saying I'm not real mechanically inclined but made a promise to myself to try and start learning.

Some people bring home stray dogs or significant others and try to "save" them but me, I bring home anything with wheels.

I know I'm in WAY over my head in terms of the ratio between cash on hand and what this car needs, along with know how to do things myself, but I know I'll never learn so....

The car was at a "friends" garage and he was supposed to get me going in the right direction and start building a foundation for the project.
Well it didn't quite go as well as I'd expected.

Outwardly the car is pretty fugly, especially since someone chose to put Cragar wheels on her .
She's also got some serious "patina" with some holes here and there.

The first issue I wanted to address were the floors as they were pretty rotted out.
The "friend" was to replace the rot and get her solid so I could clean up the interior and at least have a decent cabin for the family to ride in.

So the plan was to clean up the rot issues in the floor, get the motor running well & do a complete revamping of the brakes wiring & fuel system so that the car would be both safe & comfortable for my family to cruise in.

I'm not really concerned with the outward appearance other then getting rid of those HORRIBLE Cragers & getting replacement glass.
The paint or whatever I decide to do, will be addressed last.

Here's what's been done & bought so far;

All new brake lines drums wheel cylinders calipers etc.

Original starter & generator rebuilt

Radiator flushed & Pressure tested

Replaced some sheet metal in the floor

New wires and tune up parts , hoses , along with cosmetic clean up (painting motor)

New fuel tank (not yet installed)

New Rug (not yet installed)

The interior as you can see from the pics, was redone in some diamond pleats or whatever you would call it, and was continued in the trunk.
Not really sure what era it would have been done in (opinions) but I love the look and just want to clean it up and install a headliner eventually.

For some reason, said "friend" never wanted to remove the rear seat and check what was going on under there so that's next on the agenda.

Now for the trunk, she's pretty rough.
I think mine came with a tool tray which is completely gone, so I purchased a new one to have welded in.

The latch mechanism is totally shot an I'm assuming will have to be fabricated by scratch since I've never seen any new one's you can purchase.
I'd LOVE some suggestions here as far as what to do.

The rest of the trunk is very rusty and I'm thinking maybe I should just cut it all out and put some fresh sheet metal in it's place.

Question is do should I just cut it out and weld in new metal or does anyone make a direct weld in replacement

I've seen some complete floors advertised pretty inexpensively but I'm not sure if they're the best quality or route to take since I'm not looking for an exact restoration

I guess I should have said I'm not looking to build a show car or a do a true restoration, but I just want something fun safe and reliable I can take the family out for ice cream in on a Saturday night.

I do however want the car to stay pretty stock looking with a few nice custom touches to make it my own.

I'm on a very tight budget as I'm sure most of us are, and could use any help or advice so as not to waste any more $ then I already have on shoddy work or unnecessary parts.

Here are some pictures & thanks for taking the time to read my long winded sob story;

[Jersey Joe 67]

[Jersey Joe 67]

[Jersey Joe 67]

Oh one other thing;

The drip rail is separating from the car & I'd like to retain it. Can anyone give me advice on the best way to fabricate a new one

Sorry about the picture dimensions, I tried editing them on Photobucket but they don't seem to resise on here

[waterboychuck]

I also have a 46 coupe and used EMS engineering http://emsautomotive.com/index.php?r...ory&path=18_60 for panels. Your rocker panels do not look good? Have you examined them? I hope that you replace the wiring in the car for safety sake. Good idea on the brakes. Just go over the chassis and replace what needs to done like maybe tie rods, bushings.... shot me a pm with your email address if you need any photos.

[Jersey Joe 67]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by waterboychuck

I also have a 46 coupe and used EMS engineering http://emsautomotive.com/index.php?r...ory&path=18_60 for panels. Your rocker panels do not look good? Have you examined them? I hope that you replace the wiring in the car for safety sake. Good idea on the brakes. Just go over the chassis and replace what needs to done like maybe tie rods, bushings.... shot me a pm with your email address if you need any photos.

Thanks so much for the reply and offer to help WBChuck, I can certainly use it.

I don't know for sure about the rockers but the guy doing the work didn't mention any issue there.
Not that that means anything.

I've owned the car since winter but I just picked her up yesterday and she's still on the trailer (can't open the doors).
I need to find a spot for her before I unload as it's not something I care to push back on the trailer .

As far as the wiring goes I purchased a harness already and plan on replacing everything.

[bbrust]

I like the look of the car. As bad as it may seem to you, it's probably in better shape than many of the cars were when bought by members of the barn. It looks like you have gutted the interior and removed the front sheet metal. In response to another poster, you state that "the guy doing the work didn't mention any issue there" referring to the rockers. Is the guy still working on the floor or was the patch you showed his only repair? Now would be the best time to fix the floor but how to do it depends on you. It sounds like you need to find a friend with a welder. The best result would be to replace the floor but you may be able to temporarily weld in patch panels but the floor looks pretty weak to me. The prior poster already referred you to EMS Automotive. They make a lot of sheet metal and may have everything you need. In addition to the rockers, under the floor you'll find braces that probably are rusted and need replacing.

With the front sheet metal removed, you can begin the tedious cleanup (scrub, sand and paint) of the frame and firewall. Make sure the suspension and steering is working correctly. It's much easier to do this work with the sheet metal off. This will be a good way for you to learn what all the holes, lines, etc. are used for.

Just curious to know if the engine runs.

I'd suggest moving to the trunk once the rest of the car is in operational condition. Don't install the fuel tank until the trunk rust work is completed. Removing/replacing the wheels can wait until the car is ready for the road.
Bob

[waterboychuck]

I have to agree with Bob. If you can afford it buy a Mig welder. I have miller that runs on 110V and work great for my needs. Here is a site that you can go to http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...ding-tips.html
He starts off with basic stuff which is what you need along with practice. Welding in patch panels in my opinion should be done using 1.4 inch rosettes. It will hold better. Learning to fabricate is a great asset. It certainly gave me confidence with what I do.

[FortyNiner]

EMS also sells replacement trunk floor pans for tool tray models.

[Jersey Joe 67]

Thanks so much to both of you guys, that's why I love this site!

The car is now in my possession and the person is no longer working on her.
The frontend is back on the car but I plan to take it along with the rear fenders off to continue on the body repair.

The engine turns freely but was never started as of yet.
I'm not sure whether to try and get her going before doing the new harness or after.

The car does not appear to have any body work at all or to have ever been involved in an accident, which is pretty shocking.
I'm not 100% on this but I really see no evidence of any work being done.

I will take your advice bbrust and check all the braces and such underneath.
The frame is very solid and I'm happy that the brakes have been completely done along with the lines.

I planned on doing the trunk and fuel tank together.

A friend just told me to look into giving her a bath in something called "CLR", I'm looking into that now.


As far as the wheels go, I know that is probably the least important issue at this point but it's painful to look at!! lol

[Jersey Joe 67]

I'm definitely going to go with all your recommendations to use EMS for the floor. I wanted to make sure I was dealing with a quality product before spending the $.

I do have access to a welder and a very good friend who will help me along the way with the project.
I'm not rushing this one, I want to do things right even if it takes a little longer.

[Mike in AZ]

looks like a fun project.....you said you purchased a wiring harness?....from?...you should be able to get quite a bit of help here for your project....have fun and good luck.....Mike

[Jersey Joe 67]

Got the harness from MACs

[36 ford]

Get some wide whites on her and she'll look much better. Have to agree with losing those cragars. Try to get it to run before wiring and if it fires up you'll be motivated to get the wiring done. Bob (BBrust) has been helping me on my 39' and we got it running and then tackled the wiring with some good help from Jerry Seery.

Phil

[bbrust]

You state "I'm not sure whether to try and get her going before doing the new harness or after". I don't see any under hood wiring in the pictures with the front end off to even attempt a start. A typical old Ford uses many harnesses such as the engine compartment, front lighting, interior(dash); power to the rear (which includes wires for the brake light switch) and lighting for the rear of the car.
Have you decided whether to leave the car 6 volt or convert to 12 volts? You'll find arguments for both on the barn. Now is a good time to add an electric fuel pump. You can buy them 6 volt or 12 volt. If you plan on using a stock fuel pump, just wire the electric pump to a toggle under the dash. It's there if you need it.
Once you get the front end and firewall cleaned up, you can install the engine and dash wires to see if she'll start. Looks like a fun project. Just take your time and do it right. Bob

[39topless]

That interior is wonderful. Very "period" correct. If it's usable, leave it alone (please?).
Looks like a fun project. If you have the means, with rust repair you have etc., I would recommend taking the body off the frame and placing it on a rotisserie. Then the frame will also be so easy to work on.
Good luck on your project.

[mercman from oz]

Congratulations on your purchase of a 1946 Ford Super Deluxe Sedan Coupe. This body style was never sold in Australia, we only got 4 door Sedans. Quite a few Coupes have found their way here in recent years, mostly from New Zealand. They were available new in both the Sedan Coupe and Business Coupe in NZ in fairly limited numbers in Right Hand Drive form, however the supply there is now very limited. Over the years, quite a few of these RHD Coupes have found their way to Australia. These days, we have to look further afield to the USA if we want a Coupe. This example is one that has come from the USA and retains the Left Hand Drive. It looks good in Black with Wide White Wall Tyres on Red Wheels. Keep up the good work on yours.

[mercman from oz]

Here is a picture of a 1946 Ford Super Deluxe Business Coupe that was imported from New Zealand a number of years ago. These short door Coupes are also very popular and quite rare.

[Jersey Joe 67]

Thanks for all the encouragement and advice fellas, I really appreciate it!

The interior is really what pushed me to take the ole' girl home. I just love the style and plan to have her cleaned up and repaired , bringing her back to her former glory.

Like I said before, I haven't secured a spot to put her yet so she is still sitting on the trailer.
Once I do get her inside I will start disassembly and repair of the sheet metal and sprucing up the interior.

As for the wiring, I'm thinking the "friend" took everything out in the engine and therefore i'll have to start from scratch with the new harness I bought.
It's not an original harness for that car but one I believe has what I need to get her all wired up and everything functioning.
The guy who was working on her would tell me what to get and I'd order it so I'm not exactly sure what harness or how many circuits it has.

Now that I think of it it may be from Speedway and not Macs.

[Mart]

I'd keep the Cragars. They're in keeping with the interior. I had an ex NZ short door 46 too, a very nice car. (I know the OP's is a long door)

Mart.

[Jersey Joe 67]

Originally Posted by Mart

I'd keep the Cragars. They're in keeping with the interior. I had an ex NZ short door 46 too, a very nice car. (I know the OP's is a long door)

Mart.

Oh Mart Mart Mart, say it ain't so lol.
I can't even fathom the possibility of keeping those Cragars on her but I do get what you mean about the theme carrying over from the interior.
That being said, NO WAY THEY WILL REMAIN! lol

I've got a few options available in my parts stash, one of which is a set of Artillery rims I may adapt to her or just the ole' standby "steelies".

I want the stock appearance to remain but I'm thinking of the possibility in the future of doing some non Ford Barn acceptable mods to the ole girl' once $ allows.

One thing for sure is she'll never be chopped.

[Jersey Joe 67]

I just started a new job so progress on the 46 will be slow for a bit until I find the balance between work and being the primary caretaker of my 5yo son.

Plans this weekend include picking up a new motor for my Model A and then coming home to get the 46 off the trailer and power washed.

I'm hoping to dedicate some time to a CLR bath and then a full & thorough inspection and plan of attack going forward.

Like I said before, even before getting to the engine I'd like to get the rot in the floors taken care of and get the interior to the point where it is ready for my family to ride in.
That certainly doesn't mean the engine won't be getting some attention also, but I really want to get the cabin up to snuff along with that, sorta like a 1 &1a on the priority list.

I'll certainly post updates as the project moves along.

[48 coupe]

my 48 never done. power tour Just take your time and do it your way.

[Jersey Joe 67]

BIG DAY!
Going to give the ole' girl a nice massage & CLA bath today.

STAY TUNED!

[Jersey Joe 67]

Well that was disappointing.

Went with what others suggested and used a ScotchBrite pad along with both using the CLR at full strength and a 50-50 mix.
Rub too hard and you take it to metal otherwise I don't see that the product is any more effective then using Comet or Soft Scrub.

Ready to move on to cleaning out the garage and starting disassembly.

[Graeme / New Zealand]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Here's my short door NZ assembled car I sold in 1993. One is pre rebuild, another is outside my old address and the other is outside the old FOMOCO Factory in Seaview, Lower Hutt ( it is now a Hardware store). I wish I kept that car. My 48 coupe sedan was also locally assembled.

Good luck with your rebuild. I just love the last of the "fatties"

GB

[Jersey Joe 67]

Thanks Graeme, nothing like the fat fender Fords!

[Jersey Joe 67]

A few pics from the weekend .
CLA bath & rear bumper removal.

The plan now is to leave her outside & remove rear fenders and front end .
Then I'll move her in the garage and start getting the dash and doors cleaned up and prepped for paint





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jersey Joe 67]

Does anyone know if they reproduce this latch mechanism for the trunk ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[waterboychuck]

Looking a little rusty in the rear. If you buy a new trunk bed you will get one that does not use the tool tray but comes straight back to the rear. I think that you will want to find some better rear fenders too. I believe that they are all the same except station and sedan delivery.

[Jersey Joe 67]

Yes Chuck her ass does need some attention lol.
The passenger fender will be replaced but the driver is in good shape.
The body mount on the passenger side is also shot so I'll have to find a replacement or fab one up.
Not sure if they reproduce those?

The guy who will address all the metal work is a master fabricator . He looked her over and said she was in great shape .
He recommended finding a replacement trunk lid so that's also on the list .

The rockets are in good shape so that's a plus.
They'll need a little work but not much .
Here's a few more pics from about 1/2 hour ago ;





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FortyNiner]

Originally Posted by waterboychuck

If you buy a new trunk bed you will get one that does not use the tool tray but comes straight back to the rear.

EMS sells both the tool tray and flat trunk pan versions.

[Jersey Joe 67]

I've already got the tool tray, I purchased it a while back.

[39topless]

If you have that much rust in the body, chances are good you have lots of rust in the frame. Take the easy, and safe route. Remove that body from the frame so you can get at everything. You'll be glad you did.

[Jersey Joe 67]

Originally Posted by 39topless

If you have that much rust in the body, chances are good you have lots of rust in the frame. Take the easy, and safe route. Remove that body from the frame so you can get at everything. You'll be glad you did.

I had planned on removing the body from the frame all long. I actually wanted to do it before having the floors put in but the guy that will be doing the work advised me against it because if the floors are weak and the body isn't braced properly he's afraid it will twist.

I know she looks really rough from the photos but she really isn't that bad. The frame was inspected thoroughly before I purchased the car and it is not rotted at all.

[Jersey Joe 67]

I'm looking to remove the rear fenders next, can someone give me some advice as to the easiest way to do it

[39topless]

You have probably figured this out, but the access to the fender bolts is up inside the fenders with the tire off. Because of the rust you have,you probably won't be able to loosen these bolts. I would go into the trunk and behind the rear seats and just cut or grind off the nuts. Then let what's left of the bolt fall back through the hole and the fender will fall off. You can get replacements of the fender bolts and nuts.

[40 Deluxe]

You mentioned your five year old son. What a golden opportunity! Get him involved as a light holder, tool fetcher, part holder, starter button pusher (let him fire the engine for the first time and the car will be his!). Boys are washable so don't worry about dirt and grease!

[Jersey Joe 67]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

You mentioned your five year old son. What a golden opportunity! Get him involved as a light holder, tool fetcher, part holder, starter button pusher (let him fire the engine for the first time and the car will be his!). Boys are washable so don't worry about dirt and grease!

Best advice yet!
My son is actually my inspiration for this build in that I made a promise to myself to do as much as I possibly can personally so that my son can be involved in the project.

At the very least I can teach him how NOT to do things lol!

[Jersey Joe 67]

Originally Posted by 39topless

You have probably figured this out, but the access to the fender bolts is up inside the fenders with the tire off. Because of the rust you have,you probably won't be able to loosen these bolts. I would go into the trunk and behind the rear seats and just cut or grind off the nuts. Then let what's left of the bolt fall back through the hole and the fender will fall off. You can get replacements of the fender bolts and nuts.

Thanks 39 Topless,
Yes I kinda figured that was the way to go as far as removing them but I like to ask questions before jumping in feet first lol.
As you can see in the pic below someone has obviously removed them previously and wasn't going for originality when replacing them;

I'm sure the plus side to this is I'll be able to remove the bolts without much penetrating oil or cutting lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk