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Old 08-06-2015, 10:03 PM   #21
Old Henry
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Default Re: The last and the first

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Originally Posted by AKCJ View Post
I'm still having dreams about that 51 . . . .
So, buy it. Here's the ad on Hemmings Motor News that tells all about it: http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/...m/1759009.html
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:50 PM   #22
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Default Re: The last and the first

So she said it doesn't matter who's on first, second and third. The guy who makes last base wins.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:23 AM   #23
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Looks to be a beautiful car Professor, and priced right!
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:29 AM   #24
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Beautiful car, glad you got it running.
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:23 AM   #25
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Default Re: The last and the first

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So, was that:

A. Second to the last place.
B. Second to the first place.
C. First to the last place.
D. B. & C.
E. A. & B.
F. A. & C.
G. All of the above.
H. None of the above.
I. I don't know.*
J. I don't give a darn.^


BTW, did you know that Hu really is on first?



* Third base.
^ Short stop.
HAHA! I'm going with "G"

That is a nice '51 your helping your friend with. Perhaps you can add it to your collection for your grandchildren to enjoy?
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:28 AM   #26
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Why does a mechanical pencil only run out of lead when your using it?
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:39 AM   #27
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Default Re: The last and the first

Of course you could solve a problem you didn't have like I did.

I bought a '32-35 coil for a '34 pickup that is equipped with an aftermarket modern cylindrical coil mounted on the intake and connected to the helmet distributor by a wire. I wanted to remove the non-original setup and go back to stock. Easy fix? Nope.

I went to install the '34 coil and found out the engine is equipped with a younger distributor that takes the 2-screw coils...I have three of those on the shelf.

Now I've got to find a stock '34 distributor if I want to go pure stock...a problem I didn't know I had.

So maybe the last fix doesn't always solve the problem.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:53 AM   #28
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Default Re: The last and the first

Henry, I'm the sceptic. You say that your "tests" prove that you had vapor lock, which went away when you installed an electric fuel pump. I say bull. The electric fuel pump didn't cure the problem, it simply disguised it by pressurizing the line, thereby eliminating the source of the bubbles present when the line had negative pressure. The problem is still there, waiting for the new owner to discover it, hopefully not by accident.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:18 PM   #29
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Henry, I'm the sceptic. You say that your "tests" prove that you had vapor lock, which went away when you installed an electric fuel pump. I say bull. The electric fuel pump didn't cure the problem, it simply disguised it by pressurizing the line, thereby eliminating the source of the bubbles present when the line had negative pressure. The problem is still there, waiting for the new owner to discover it, hopefully not by accident.
So, what do you suggest?
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Old 08-07-2015, 01:59 PM   #30
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Henry, You fixed the symptom not the problem. Thousands and thousands of 5ls ran very well years and years without electric fuel pumps. I had a 5l in my service days that ran all over the US, even out in hot, dry west Texas for over over 100 K miles with no booster pump. In the medical field giving a pain pill to cure a sore throat is treating a symptom not curing the disease.
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Old 08-07-2015, 05:59 PM   #31
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Henry, I'm the sceptic. You say that your "tests" prove that you had vapor lock, which went away when you installed an electric fuel pump. I say bull. The electric fuel pump didn't cure the problem, it simply disguised it by pressurizing the line, thereby eliminating the source of the bubbles present when the line had negative pressure. The problem is still there, waiting for the new owner to discover it, hopefully not by accident.
Alan, check your logic. Old Henry's solution is the equivalent of a modern pressurized radiator. Some folks could run all day and not lose a drop with unpressurized systems while some had fits. The industry pressurized the cooling systems to make everyone happy. Remember, he lives at a pretty high altitude which tends to make hot stuff vaporize sooner.

Lonnie
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:13 PM   #32
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Default Re: The last and the first

Henry, you've had many suggestions that have been ignored or discounted as too expensive. You declare that you were correct in your diagnosis from the outset and have solved the problem without benefit of any suggestions from anyone. Our criticism is constructive, but you view it with blinders on as you have viewed all suggestions that didn't agree with your Taiwan Tool Box diagnosis.

My suggestion at this point is to fully disclose the situation to the new buyer, in order to relieve yourself and the widow of future liability.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:19 PM   #33
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Henry, you've had many suggestions that have been ignored or discounted as too expensive. You declare that you were correct in your diagnosis from the outset and have solved the problem without benefit of any suggestions from anyone. Our criticism is constructive, but you view it with blinders on as you have viewed all suggestions that didn't agree with your Taiwan Tool Box diagnosis.

My suggestion at this point is to fully disclose the situation to the new buyer, in order to relieve yourself and the widow of future liability.
Eloquent and succinct, Alan. DD
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:21 PM   #34
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Default Re: The last and the first

I have not heard you looking at the carb.
What I think is going wrong is the needle valve is sticking.
When driving 40-50 you are using more gas, as you slow down the bowl starts to fill and the valve shuts the fuel off. maybe by putting more pressure you free the valve.
The top of carb can be taken off and check and clean the float and needle and seat.
If you can drive the car 100 miles I guess you fixed it. There is nothing left to change.
Also you could try a temp gauge, you can run hot in 50 deg weather.
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:49 PM   #35
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Attorney Henry, You should have remembered the old Attorney rule, "Never ask a question unless you know the answer".
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Old 08-08-2015, 06:30 PM   #36
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Default Re: The last and the first

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Alan, check your logic. Old Henry's solution is the equivalent of a modern pressurized radiator. Some folks could run all day and not lose a drop with unpressurized systems while some had fits. The industry pressurized the cooling systems to make everyone happy. Remember, he lives at a pretty high altitude which tends to make hot stuff vaporize sooner.

Lonnie
Lonnie, you nailed it. That explains why all of the typical fixes for fuel delivery problems that were suggested to me and I tried did not work in spite of our level of confidence that they would. It's like my 47 that I'm sure I have to run the electric fuel pump way more in the summer than anyone at lower elevations.

Thanks for that explanation.

And, thanks to everyone else that cared so much, stuck with me, even through numerous threads, and made so many suggestions to fix my fuel delivery problem, and especially to expavr for this post that steered me back toward vapor lock and the final solution to my problem - electric fuel pump.

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Have you tried placing a wet sponge/rag on the fuel line at the low point where it breaks up the firewall? I had a similar vapor lock issue on our RV which wouldn't start or would cut off when the fuel line got hot. By trial and error I found that by placing a wet sponge on the fuel filter which was located about 1/2 way down the chassis from the tank cured the problem. The other thing I noticed is that this vapor lock phenomenon only happened when the level of the gas in the fuel tank dropped below 1/4 tank from which I concluded that the cooling effect of a larger volume of fuel somehow contributed to vapor lock free operation.
It's amazing the knowledge here on the barn and the willingness and, in fact, true caring for each other to help each other find solutions to problems, yea, even with a passion. It's a great place to be.
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Last edited by Old Henry; 08-08-2015 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:19 PM   #37
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Default Re: The last and the first

You are quite welcome Sir. I know it still begs the question of how this wasn't a wide-spread problem way back when. Personally, I think gasoline formulations have changed within the last decade. I remember when I was in the Air Force in the 90's and a new jet fuel grade was being used in our planes in Europe. The explanation of the fuel's makeup was to distill to the gasoline level, then dilute it down to the kerosene level for jet engine use.

Even with today's non-ethanol fuel viewed in a glass jar, it looks different, smells different, lighter amber and less "swirly" in bright light.

I dunno. Maybe MrTexas can weigh-in since he was a petroleum engineer.

Lonnie
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:31 PM   #38
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I know this: I drove my 47 for years in the 60's and can only remember a handful of vapor lock events. With no difference in hardware, location, climate, or elevation it is now a rampant problem. It can only be the change in gasoline formulation. That's why I finally caved in and put the electric fuel pump in it in spite of my strong commitment to authenticity. It turned out I could no longer have a truly authentic experience because the gasoline was no longer authentic. I got tired of getting out and pouring water on the fuel pump so put in the electric.
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Last edited by Old Henry; 08-08-2015 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:40 PM   #39
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Default Re: The last and the first

Fuel pump Henry, you don't pour water on the water pump LOL I think it's the fuel difference.
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Old 08-08-2015, 07:48 PM   #40
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Sometimes I got made and just poured water everywhere.
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