Has anybody here bought this starter?

[Ed Pitts]

Mart, yes, you need the thin end plate. If you have access to a lathe, the thick one can be turned down to the thin one. Not sure why Henry had two different sizes for the case and end plates. Ed

[RandyZ]

I also made a "Frankenstein" starter by combining a 1958 12V starter and my 1951. The big thing that I like is that the motor doesn't crank over at warp speed. It just sound normal.

[Tom in TN]

Originally Posted by scooder

I see from above that VanPelt swaps out the New bendix (rubber?) for the original type spring bendix. I take it there issues with the modern type?

My only 'issue' was the dang thing would not fit into my motor's hole - 1936 flathead.

Luckily, I had an old style Bendix lying around that was workable..

[FordCustom]

Can you use the bendix from the FE starter? Just wondering, since I have not even taken the starter off yet. The FE starter has one, when the image the store had in the system showed the bare shaft.

[flathead48]

Why not replace the field coils in the flathead starter with 12 volt ones?

[Ed Solari]

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When I saw this NEW starter a couple of years ago I called and it was made in India....do not remember the retailer...so not clear if this is a new source or just the India unit.
I decided to have OEM rebuilt by a guy in Colorado (now retired).

Ed S

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by flathead48

Why not replace the field coils in the flathead starter with 12 volt ones?

Way too difficult not an easy task for someone that hasn't done it before.
Try it and discover yourself.Your first obstacle will be removing the screws.

R

[Ed Pitts]

Why would you want to make something that is easy to do into a difficult project?
Take the bottom one out of the FE case and put the top one in. The second pic is the FE case with the top one installed. Ed

[Ed Pitts]

Here are the pics. Ed

[FordCustom]

Well, I got it back together with the new FE case. Should it turn freely? Mine feels like it is rubbing somewhere, and one of the brush holders looks VERY close to the armature? I see no shiny copper indicating that it is rubbing, however. The rebuilt FE starter had two fiber(reddish orange) washers on the end of the shaft when disassembled. My fear is that if I use these washers, then the plate will stick out on the back of the starter. Of course there may be a very slight misalignment since it's not all bolted up. What if it won't turn once it's tightened? Or worse, the brush holder rubs and it shorts out?

[FordCustom]

I put nuts on the ends of the bolts, and it was binding very badly. I pulled it back apart only to find one of the bolts had stripped in the nut, and the commutator was indeed rubbing the brush holder. How easy was this supposed to be again? It does spin free now with one of the reddish orange washers added, but I need one of the long bolts. Anybody got one they can spare?

[flathead48]

Ronnie, I have done it many times in my shop, replaced 6 volt with 12 and replaced 6 volt with high torque 6 volt. But then I am set up for this work, thanks.

[FordCustom]

I can't get it to turn freely no matter what I do. Sooo, I am out $45 more than I was, and I still have no starter. I'm done, unless someone has a miracle suggestion? The brush holders rub with no washer on the shaft, and the shaft is in a bind either way once it is tightened up. I'm just going to take my old one to a local shop and have it gone through for now. Though it's the same shop that was trying to alternator sales pitch while I was there. At this point I am wishing I had just ordered the starter at the beginning of the thread.

[FordCustom]

Originally Posted by Ed Pitts

Here is a pic of the conversion with the FE starter case. Ed

The FE starter I bought has that same front plate, and the shaft is binding pretty bad. I have a buddy coming over that has buku experience on starters and cars in general. Hopefully he can figure out the problem.

[FordCustom]

It was WAY more involved than I thought. There was a difference in how long the shafts were. We ended up using the new shaft, but drilling a new indention for the bendix bolt pin so it would have the correct location as the old one did. Sooo, the only thing we used from the old starter was the Bendix, and the rear plate. We hooked it up to 12v volts, and it jumped to life and the gear shot forward like it should. It was an hour or two of work, and not simple, but it works now, and is twelve volts. I also installed a set of points, a 12v coil and condenser, and bought a battery. Soon it will be running.

Once I get it going I may put a new Bendix on it, just to know it's been done.