The Ford Barn

billfish · 03-12-2014, 08:02 PM

The 3 speed manual transmission on my 1951 ford leaks a little at the rear seal where the drive shaft enters. Is there an additive that I could try the next time I top of the fluid that would swell the seals and save me some aggravation.

40cpe · 03-12-2014, 08:50 PM

The seal might not be dry. There is a bushing in the tail housing that keeps the drive shaft yoke from wobbling. If the bushing wears to the point that the yoke doesn't run true the oil leaks around the seal.

The rear seal itself isn't hard to change. Jack up the rear of the car so the oil runs to the front. pry out the old seal and tap a new one in.

billwill · 03-12-2014, 08:58 PM

Attenion Place jack stands under rar housing after jack up the rear thango under the car

Mike51Merc · 03-13-2014, 07:40 AM

I'd replace the seal, and possibly the bushing, and maybe the yoke, before I'd put additives in the oil. Been there and done that.

I think these seals never really seal like on new cars. I also think these transmissions are very sensitive to over-filling the trans and parking on angles.

ford3 · 03-13-2014, 06:30 PM

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save your self a lot of time and aggrevation, replace the seal at the least, check the bushing in trans tail housing if its worn replace it, check to see if there is a grove worn in the yoke, if so either replace it or find a sleeve that is pressed on the yoke to cover the grove, make sure you lube the lip of the seal and the yoke, if you dont the heat from the dry yoke will melt the seal lip and then your back to replacing the seal, o some fairly worn yokes you can remove the tension spring from inside the seal, the spring has one end that is twisted to a point, the other is not, find where the spring goes together untwist it, cut off about 1/4" and then wind the spring back wards and put the pointed end of spring in the other end of spring and let it twist itself back to gether, put the spring back in seal, now you have put more tension on the lip of the seal to help it against leaking, experiment with the old seal spring till you figure out how things work

03-12-2014, 08:02 PM	#1
billfish Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: egg harbor twp nj Posts: 303	trans leak The 3 speed manual transmission on my 1951 ford leaks a little at the rear seal where the drive shaft enters. Is there an additive that I could try the next time I top of the fluid that would swell the seals and save me some aggravation.

03-12-2014, 08:50 PM	#2
40cpe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Star, MS Posts: 4,024	Re: trans leak The seal might not be dry. There is a bushing in the tail housing that keeps the drive shaft yoke from wobbling. If the bushing wears to the point that the yoke doesn't run true the oil leaks around the seal. The rear seal itself isn't hard to change. Jack up the rear of the car so the oil runs to the front. pry out the old seal and tap a new one in.

03-12-2014, 08:58 PM	#3
billwill Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: capemaynewjersey Posts: 653	Re: trans leak Attenion Place jack stands under rar housing after jack up the rear thango under the car

03-13-2014, 07:40 AM	#4
Mike51Merc Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northeast Pennsylvania Posts: 1,582	Re: trans leak I'd replace the seal, and possibly the bushing, and maybe the yoke, before I'd put additives in the oil. Been there and done that. I think these seals never really seal like on new cars. I also think these transmissions are very sensitive to over-filling the trans and parking on angles.

03-13-2014, 06:30 PM	#5
ford3 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: oroville calif. Posts: 1,453	Re: trans leak Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) save your self a lot of time and aggrevation, replace the seal at the least, check the bushing in trans tail housing if its worn replace it, check to see if there is a grove worn in the yoke, if so either replace it or find a sleeve that is pressed on the yoke to cover the grove, make sure you lube the lip of the seal and the yoke, if you dont the heat from the dry yoke will melt the seal lip and then your back to replacing the seal, o some fairly worn yokes you can remove the tension spring from inside the seal, the spring has one end that is twisted to a point, the other is not, find where the spring goes together untwist it, cut off about 1/4" and then wind the spring back wards and put the pointed end of spring in the other end of spring and let it twist itself back to gether, put the spring back in seal, now you have put more tension on the lip of the seal to help it against leaking, experiment with the old seal spring till you figure out how things work