The Ford Barn

Ken Lauderback · 01-16-2011, 10:33 PM

I have several Aermore exhaust whistles and I think I want to put one on my 31 pickup. I know there are at least a couple of types of cutout; unfortunately I do not have one of any type. I am curious whether folks think the cutout that goes between the manifold and the exhaust pipe, at the engine, is better or worse than the type of cutout that is installed into the pipe further back under the vehicle. And if anybody happens to have a spare cutout of either type, please let me know!
Thanks
Ken

denis4x4 · 01-16-2011, 11:33 PM

I put my cutout under the passenger side floorboard and I open and close it with a lawn mower throttle cable under the driver's seat. My favorite thing is to coast up behind some bicylists, open the cutout and go by at full throttle!

Jeff P. / MN · 01-17-2011, 07:51 AM

Ken, My experience is either one works about the same. I prefer the "downstream" one as I run the cable to a foot operated lever. The valves are available from most Model T or Model A suppliers and work just as well as an old one.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 01-17-2011, 08:09 AM

Ken, I think the cut-out location is greatly determined by the intended use of it. I, like you have a couple of the Aermore whistles with the Model A manifold cut-out on them, and in a whistle application they are fine due to the limited amount of time that you would be using (blowing) them. If you were to unscrew the whistle and use it solely as a cut-out, the carbon monoxide exhaust coming from the manifold would basically be directed just below the carburetor intake causing the oxygen entering the carb to be diluted, and thus causing an extremely rich fuel mixture when the cut-out is open.

The closer the whistle is mounted to the engine, the stronger the shrill pitch is. I suspect this is due to the to added heat, but that is just a guess. I will also give my opinion that while a cut-out on our early Model T is a huge performance increaser due to the very restrictive original muffler, I am not sure much, --if any increase would be made using a cut-out on an Aries type Model A exhaust system.

.

Special Coupe Frank · 01-17-2011, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by denis4x4

My favorite thing is to coast up behind some bicylists, open the cutout and go by at full throttle!

Nice. As a cyclist myself, I don't necessarily see the humor in that trick.
(And that could bring some negative back-lash against the hobby.)

How 'bout saving that for when you encounter the Tuner Kidz in their Rice-rockets ?

( I enjoy the bellow of an open exhaust as much as the next gear-head, but some thoughtful restraint is probably in order...)

Compotato · 01-17-2011, 04:54 PM

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I have an Aermore mounted at the tailpipe. I made the cutout from off-the-shelf exhaust parts at my local auto parts store. I used a manual choke cable mounted at the front of the seat riser. The door assembly was made from a flat piece of steel and a piece of rod stock bent at a right angle and filed flat on one end. No other modification of the exhaust system was necessary. I have a photo somewhere. I'll post it if I can find it.

01-16-2011, 10:33 PM	#1
Ken Lauderback Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7	Exhaust whistle question I have several Aermore exhaust whistles and I think I want to put one on my 31 pickup. I know there are at least a couple of types of cutout; unfortunately I do not have one of any type. I am curious whether folks think the cutout that goes between the manifold and the exhaust pipe, at the engine, is better or worse than the type of cutout that is installed into the pipe further back under the vehicle. And if anybody happens to have a spare cutout of either type, please let me know! Thanks Ken

01-16-2011, 11:33 PM	#2
denis4x4 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Durango CO Posts: 1,309	Re: Exhaust whistle question I put my cutout under the passenger side floorboard and I open and close it with a lawn mower throttle cable under the driver's seat. My favorite thing is to coast up behind some bicylists, open the cutout and go by at full throttle!

01-17-2011, 07:51 AM	#3
Jeff P. / MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lakeland, MN Posts: 310	Re: Exhaust whistle question Ken, My experience is either one works about the same. I prefer the "downstream" one as I run the cable to a foot operated lever. The valves are available from most Model T or Model A suppliers and work just as well as an old one. __________________ Jeff P./MN 1913 Model T Runabout 1926 Model T Sport Touring 1948 Chrysler New Yorker

01-17-2011, 08:09 AM	#4
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,520	Re: Exhaust whistle question Ken, I think the cut-out location is greatly determined by the intended use of it. I, like you have a couple of the Aermore whistles with the Model A manifold cut-out on them, and in a whistle application they are fine due to the limited amount of time that you would be using (blowing) them. If you were to unscrew the whistle and use it solely as a cut-out, the carbon monoxide exhaust coming from the manifold would basically be directed just below the carburetor intake causing the oxygen entering the carb to be diluted, and thus causing an extremely rich fuel mixture when the cut-out is open. The closer the whistle is mounted to the engine, the stronger the shrill pitch is. I suspect this is due to the to added heat, but that is just a guess. I will also give my opinion that while a cut-out on our early Model T is a huge performance increaser due to the very restrictive original muffler, I am not sure much, --if any increase would be made using a cut-out on an Aries type Model A exhaust system. . __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

01-17-2011, 04:54 PM	#6
Compotato Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 18	Re: Exhaust whistle question Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I have an Aermore mounted at the tailpipe. I made the cutout from off-the-shelf exhaust parts at my local auto parts store. I used a manual choke cable mounted at the front of the seat riser. The door assembly was made from a flat piece of steel and a piece of rod stock bent at a right angle and filed flat on one end. No other modification of the exhaust system was necessary. I have a photo somewhere. I'll post it if I can find it.