oil pan removal

[Gezer]

Anyone out there experience trying to remove a oil pan while it is in the car and with all the bolts removed it will not come loose from the engine?
This particular pan is on a 51 EAB Flathead and is mounted in My 1940 DLX 2dr Sedan. It seems like someone has used some very high strength sealant on it. Any ideas on how to soften it up?

[jake197000]

take a rubber mallet and whack the pan on the junction of the side and bottom.u can hit it pretty hard with no damage if careful.otherwise put a screwdriver in there and pound it in.carefully.it will come off take it slow

[adileo]

Hold on. I think 39 & 40s you need to lift the engine. Remove motor mounts.

I've never done it but this was what I was advised when I wanted to clean mine

[JM 35 Sedan]

It is possible that the oil pan is somehow getting hung up on the crankshaft counter weights. Try turning the crankshaft ~1/4 turn/90° of one revolution and see if that will allow the pan to drop down.

[paul2748]

Is it tight to the block or loose but you cannot completely remove it?

If tight to the block, insert a putty knife between the block and the pan Someone may have used a hardening sealer on an install in the past.

[JM 35 Sedan]

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Another thought.....there is one oil pan bolt in the back, around the flywheel/clutch bell housing, that is not accessible from below like all the other oil pan bolts. I can recall forgetting about this one bolt in the past, and of course, at that time, could not understand why the pan would not drop down. It was lucky that I didn't start prying on the pan, or I might have bent the flanged area where the gasket seals.

☆Edit: I must have glossed right over the part in post #1 about having a 51 engine in a 40 deluxe tudor, or that statement was added later by the OP.
So, as Coopman mentioned in his later post, my comment above would apply to '48 (except for pu's) and earlier engines with 1/2 of bell housing cast onto back of block. The 8ba type engines, with separate bell housing, would not have these bolts coming down from the bell housing into the rear of the oil pan.

[Ross F-1]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Another thought.....there is one oil pan bolt in the back, around the flywheel/clutch bell housing, that is not accessible from below like all the other oil pan bolts. I can recall forgetting about this one bolt in the past, and of course, at that time, could not understand why the pan would not drop down. It was lucky that I didn't start prying on the pan, or I might have bent the flanged area where the gasket seals

There are two, straddling the crank. One is "more hidden" by the bump for the oil pump.

If it is just the sealant holding it on, get a utility knife and cut in from the side, between the block and the gasket. If it's really stuck you may need to cut out some of the gasket so you can get something stronger in to pry with.

[39topless]

Originally Posted by adileo

Hold on. I think 39 & 40s you need to lift the engine. Remove motor mounts.

I've never done it but this was what I was advised when I wanted to clean mine

This is correct for removing the pan but it appears he needs to loosen it from the engine first. This is a tough job. Given a choice, I would rather clean portable toilets with a sponge.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Another thought.....there is one oil pan bolt in the back, around the flywheel/clutch bell housing, that is not accessible from below like all the other oil pan bolts. I can recall forgetting about this one bolt in the past, and of course, at that time, could not understand why the pan would not drop down.

John......You're correct about those two bolts on the TOP REAR, but that's on an early block (before '49). He said in his original post that this is a '51 engine, which of course does NOT have the extended bell where these extra bolts are found. See the pic below of the EARLY engine and bolt(s) that JM is referring to. Sounds like the pan is still glued-hard to the pan gasket. DD

[Gezer]

If you were going to spray something on to the pan/gasket area to soften and help release it, what would it be?

[G.M.]

The engine has to be raised about 2 1/2"s in the front and the
front counter weights on the crankshaft have to be down. G.M.

[19Fordy]

Gezer: What type of oil pan do you have on your 51 engine
Is it rear sump or something else?

[Gezer]

Well guys, after beating and prying, I finally got the oil pan to drop off of the engine. But... it will only fall about 1/2 inch. The front lip of the pan hits the front cross member.
The pan, again, is in a 40 sedan and is a 51EAB engine. It is a rear sump pan.
As GM stated, It seams like I need to raise the front of the engine.

GM do you have in mind a step by step process for doing that?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Gezer

Well guys, after beating and prying, I finally got the oil pan to drop off of the engine. But... it will only fall about 1/2 inch. The front lip of the pan hits the front cross member.
The pan, again, is in a 40 sedan and is a 51EAB engine. It is a rear sump pan.
As GM stated, It seams like I need to raise the front of the engine.

GM do you have in mind a step by step process for doing that?

Not sure what type of fan set-up you've ended-up with, being as you have a late engine in an earlier chassis, but as you lift, you may need to watch your fan clearance, as well as your top and bottom radiator hose limits as you lift front of engine. The easiest way to lift (since you need access to the pan) would be a hoist or cherry picker lifting via a chain from the top side. Loosen rear trans mount bolts. Also beware of trans shift rods as you lift. DD

[19Fordy]

Gezer: Just for the heck of it, along with raising the engine, try rotating the crank (manually) so that the "throws" of the crank are facing upward so as to provide more clearance for pan removal. I remember reading that this has to be done on the early V-8s.

[Gezer]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Gezer: Just for the heck of it, along with raising the engine, try rotating the crank (manually) so that the "throws" of the crank are facing upward so as to provide more clearance for pan removal. I remember reading that this has to be done on the early V-8s.

OK, I jacked the engine up 3.5 inches. That was the max possible. The pan still is not coming out. There were several suggestions about rotating the crank manually to get the throws in the up position in the front.
How have you accomplished doing that since the starter has been removed? How did you turn the crank and what indicates that the throws are in the up position?

[corvette8n]

I turned mine with a long ratchet and socket on the crankshaft bolt, you will have to turn it a little and wiggle the pan.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Wow, not to be critcal, just curious, you originally started working on this about four months ago. Did you get sidetracked or have you been struggling with this all that time? Again, just curious.
This is a big reason why I personally favor pulling the engine out to remove the pan or install a new clutch, since it's usually something wrong that is much easier to cope with when the engine is out and on a stand. JMO

[trevo]

I have not long removed my pan in place ended up taking the radiator out front grille then with a chain block lifted the engine several inches and as far forward as possible yes the pan does hit the front crossmember by wriggling the pan on an angle to the left got it out it also fouled on the oil pump pickup it's a mission in place needed new engine mounts anyhow hope you have it out by now!

[Gezer]

Thanks for your input.
You are also right about ,"it's been a long time". Other things have taken priority. I will try the socket on the crank. If that does not work I will pull the engine. I assume that you can determine where the crank is by looking in one of the front spark plug holes.